western Posted May 25, 2008 Share Posted May 25, 2008 the bolts attaching the stub axle to the main casing, looking behind/inboard to the vehicles centre from the wheel arch. this pic just taken of my 110, from the front looking to the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLACK CAB Posted May 25, 2008 Share Posted May 25, 2008 The bolts you are indicating are the swivel bearing housing bolts (flange with large ball). You can remove these and take off the hub/swivel complete (this is heavy-ish) or remove the hub lock nut / nut and pull off the hub/brake disc, you will then see the stub axle and retaining bolts (17mm head). Once the stub axle is removed the CV & half shaft can then be slid out. This is much lighter to handle and you then have the hub already off if you want to replace the hub seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted May 25, 2008 Author Share Posted May 25, 2008 @western, thanks for the photo. Will whip these off tomorrow. Yours looks very clean compared to mine. @Black cab, have already stripped the other side and wanted a quick way to get the diff out. This should be easier esp as I have a mate to help lift the whole thing off. Also got some old railway sleeper offcuts left over from the silage clamp to rest the landy on rather than the axle stands. Should make the whole thing more stable fro working under. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 25, 2008 Share Posted May 25, 2008 mines only that clean as I had both off recently to replace the front diff, you sure need help as their stupidly heavy & awkward to handle & realign the shaft to the diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted May 25, 2008 Author Share Posted May 25, 2008 Just had a look through the Haynes manual and it makes a lot of use of a dial guage to check end float. Do I need one and where would I get one? I assume that Halfrauds would give me the usual vacant look if I asked for one. Also, the Haynes manual gives no details on how to remove the diff. It only says how scary and complex it is for DIY fixing and leaves it at that. Doesn't even mention how to get it out. The workshop manual also only states: 1. Remove the differentlal assembly from the axle. Before I just undo all of the bolts on the rear of the diff and pull it out... there isn't anything else to it? EDIT Ok, just found that Screwfix sell the guages and are open on a Bank holiday. Would this one be suitable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 25, 2008 Share Posted May 25, 2008 you won't need a DTI for this job, once the new shaft is in place just refit ant shims you took of from under the circlip. just undo the diff flange to axle case bolts & ese it out you may need a lever to assist & it's really heavy, took mine out using my trolley jack to take most of the weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted May 26, 2008 Author Share Posted May 26, 2008 Do I not need to undo the trackrod end to get this thing off, or is there enough room to move the whole thing back enough while keeping it together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 Nope, the track rod end needs to be disconnected, otherwise you won't have enough movement to get the halfshaft completely out of the axle case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLACK CAB Posted May 26, 2008 Share Posted May 26, 2008 Yes, it will be much easier with drag link & track bar removed. Remove the split pin and loosen the nut a few turns on the joint. Strike the nose of the arm with a hammer, the taper should pop out. Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted May 27, 2008 Author Share Posted May 27, 2008 Ok, have the broken bits of the shaft out, diff cleaned and put back in and the good side swivel back on the axle flange. I have now run into a problem putting the new halfshaft in. Tapped it into the cv and slid it back into the axle making sure it located correctly with the diff. It all turned nicely. I then put the stub axle back on with instant gasket from a tube, refitted the mudshield and tightened the retaining bolts to the correct torque (48 lbf ft). Now I can't turn the half shaft via the diff flange or by turning the cv stub axle bit. It is all locked solid. Where have I gone wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 is the new shaft a eact match [minus the damage] to the old shaft. sounds like it's locked up on the diff or CV joint somehow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 did a spacer come off the halfshaft? - did it go back on? Is the CV sat in the bronze bush on the back of the stub axle properly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted May 27, 2008 Author Share Posted May 27, 2008 is the new shaft a eact match [minus the damage] to the old shaft. sounds like it's locked up on the diff or CV joint somehow. The diff end splines on the new one look slightly longer than the old one (by about 4mm) but apart from that they are exact, the length, ridges, lumps and bumps are all the same, Dunsfold had to bring through quite a few before we got a match but they were happy with it. did a spacer come off the halfshaft? - did it go back on?Is the CV sat in the bronze bush on the back of the stub axle properly? The spacer is back on. Good question about the bronze bush. Will check again tomorrow. I take it the cv just sits against this and they rub together? How much pressure do I need to use to slide it into the diff splines? I found that it slid in quite easily and didn't require any pressure. Maybe it could have slid in further? I thought I was back on track tonight and all ready to get this thing back on the road but this has made me curse the landy again. mad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 the shaft slides into the diff easily, but if you dont get the CV and swivel on the same axis of rotation, you will have problems. you should find that the CV will settle itself, once the shims are on when its assembled etc. do you have much end float on the end of the cv? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 just had a quick look at your website, good to see anothe G reg 110 with a 200Tdi/R380 set up like mine, noticed you've got the voltmeter aka battery condition gauge noted as a ammeter, could i suggest you change it to voltmeter to aviod confusion of other readers as a ammeter isn't recommend for alternator charging systems. doing well with the dirty greasy job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted May 27, 2008 Author Share Posted May 27, 2008 the shaft slides into the diff easily, but if you dont get the CV and swivel on the same axis of rotation, you will have problems. you should find that the CV will settle itself, once the shims are on when its assembled etc. I noticed that I had to straighten up the wheels before it would go in. Once I had, it just slid easily in. do you have much end float on the end of the cv? huh? I don't have a DTI so can't measure. All I did was slide the CV & shaft in: and then bolt the stub axle on after putting some oil on the bearing and bronze bush: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 huh? I don't have a DTI so can't measure. can you move it in and out at all though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted May 27, 2008 Author Share Posted May 27, 2008 can you move it in and out at all though? No. no movement in/out or round. It was solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 sounds like it isn't sat in the bush properly then, or the cv isn't all the way on to the shaft? you've not got much choice but to take it apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted May 27, 2008 Author Share Posted May 27, 2008 Ok thanks. It is already apart and on the bench so will have another go tomorrow. double checking the fit. I take it there should be some in and out movement of the cv/halfshaft in the stub axle? last question (for tonight...) Is it ok to use instant gasket out of a tube for this or should I buy a proper gasket (which could be tricky and will slow this down even further)? thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 27, 2008 Share Posted May 27, 2008 yes, but the correct gasket would be better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted May 28, 2008 Share Posted May 28, 2008 As you insert the stub axle, pull back on the CV to make sure it goes up onto the bush before bolting it up to the swivel housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted May 28, 2008 Share Posted May 28, 2008 As you insert the stub axle, pull back on the CV to make sure it goes up onto the bush before bolting it up to the swivel housing. ..and then check the swivel moves from lock to lock. If it doesn't the CV is not located correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted May 28, 2008 Author Share Posted May 28, 2008 Ok, better progress tonight. Got a gasket from Dave Halley in Brockham (which is like land Rover parts heaven) and re fitted the stub axle. It now rotates fine but... if I push it in towards the diff, it behaves like it did yesterday. Pull it out and it rotates freely. The movement is only about 3 or 4 mm. The picture I took last night (below) shows it pushed in, so I assume that maybe all I needed to do was grab it and pull it out. When it is free to rotate there is a gap between the drive splines and stub axle whereas the image below shows the splines right up to the stub. Maybe, as LandyManLuke said, it will settle correctly once the shims and circlips are all on and it is fully reassembled. Sorry for all the questions but I just want to get this right rather than find I have made a major mistake 300 yards down the road with a horrendous expensive scraping noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted May 28, 2008 Share Posted May 28, 2008 Maybe, as LandyManLuke said, it will settle correctly once the shims and circlips are all on and it is fully reassembled. yup. You can sit the hub back on the stub axle, put just the first hub nut on loosely and trial fit the drive flange. you'll find you have to pull the CV out that 3-4mm to get the circlip on the end of the CV shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.