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Hi,

would appreciate some advice please...

All was fine until I slowed down for some traffic lights going down through the gears. Lights changed and I pulled away in 1st and then when I changed up to 2nd there was no drive in any gear. Pulled over and now I can drive with difflock engaged but not with it disengaged.

What has gone and how do I get home?

This is so typical. After months of owning the landy I finally get round to pulling the hub off my other car and so I can replace the bearings and now I am completely without transport. :angry:

thanks,

one fed up land rover owner

mad

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firstly just check the diff lock lever hasnt slipped into neuteral, take it out of diff lock, hold clutch down, put car in first go to set off slowly and pull the diff lock lever into H to see if it clunks, if so it wasnt engaged properly... if that works then your off....

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Hi,

would appreciate some advice please...

All was fine until I slowed down for some traffic lights going down through the gears. Lights changed and I pulled away in 1st and then when I changed up to 2nd there was no drive in any gear. Pulled over and now I can drive with difflock engaged but not with it disengaged.

What has gone and how do I get home?

This is so typical. After months of owning the landy I finally get round to pulling the hub off my other car and so I can replace the bearings and now I am completely without transport. :angry:

thanks,

one fed up land rover owner

mad

Halfshaft, possibly stripped splines on a drive flange depending on what type of halfshafts you have

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if you had snapped a halfshaft or a prop or a diff, i would have thought you would have had to have had it under more load than just setting off normally, and i would have thought you would have heard it go bang... to find out if you have snapped a halfshaft you need to be able to jack the wheels up.... to remove the propshafts you will need 2 14mm spanners or preferably 7/16ths or whatever the equivelent of 14mm is....

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There were no bangs or noises at all.

Before I head back to investigate further, I was able to select both High and low with diff lock engaged and I am as sure as possible that I had High/Low engaged with lock off. Is it worth taking off the transmission cover to see that the lever is working?

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No. It's probably a halfshaft as said before. I had the RH front pop a few years ago. No drama at all, just lost the drive. They can get overstressed and when the time is right, they just pop.

Have someone to look underneath when you try to drive while unlocked and see which prop is spinning. That's (obviously) the culprit end. It's probably front and the main suspect is the RH as it's shorter and flexes less.

Edited to say that it also happens that the splines go at the outer end at the wheel...

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No. It's probably a halfshaft as said before. I had the RH front pop a few years ago. No drama at all, just lost the drive. They can get overstressed and when the time is right, they just pop.

Have someone to look underneath when you try to drive while unlocked and see which prop is spinning. That's (obviously) the culprit end. It's probably front and the main suspect is the RH as it's shorter and flexes less.

Thanks.

If this is the case, do I just remove the offending prop as instructed above and drive it home?

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take a jack, (axle stands :rolleyes: ) 14mm spanners, phillips screw driver.... snippers to get the tie-wraps off the gear lever surround...

if you have a center seat you can lift the base, remove the screws and lift the alloy panel out, giving you a good view underneath... cubby box might make it more complicated tho...

do you have drive in hi + low with diff lock in, and no drive in hi or low with difflock out??? if so, at least it doesnt sound like the gearbox or the transfer box thats gone, and finding out if you have broke a shaft, and removing the appropriate propshaft will at least keep you mobile...

has it got steel wheels or alloys on it??? if its steels it is sometimes possible to remove the rear halfshafts to check them without removing the wheels, its messy cos the oil comes out with them, but you just undo 5 bolts + pull them out...

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Right difflock out in 1st jump out see which prop is spinning. Turn car off grap 9/16 spanners whip the prop off. If its the rear prop jack one side and spin the wheel look underneath at the diff flange if it spins then its the other shaft if it doesn't thats the culprite. Take out the drive flange bolts (17mm) might just be a stripped drive flange. If not pull the shaft out and use a magnet to extract remaining bits probs worth draining oil too. If diff doesnt turn atall it myt be the diff. at the front it could be a CV, Half shaft or diff.... you'll find out where by spinning yer wheels when jacked. then strip knackered side and replace what ya broke...

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Ok guys, your help is most appreciated, thank you.

The front prop is spinning merrily away when in gear and I can also turn it easily by hand.

Can I leave the prop on and drive it home in difflock or do I have to take the prop off? I (with my little/knowledge) would say that since it is spinning freely I'm not going to get any problems with lock on.

Just tried to take the prop off and the bolts are damn tight and would prefer to take my time at home rather than by the side of a busy road seeing as I have spent all day working on this and the other car. (I know, boo hoo).

thanks.

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Got it home.

7 bolts were easy to get off, and as usual one was a nightmare esp with the traffic blasting past. Managed to wallop it with my big hammer after soaking in WD40 and it finally moved.

Was only 3/4 of a mile away from home so not far.

Will start to trace the fault tomorrow so expect some more questions...

Once again, big thanks to everyone who helped out.

regards,

Hedley

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Ok,

have jacked the front up and when I turn either wheel the diff doesn't turn at all.

As I am a complete newbie to land rovers I am now well out of my league and fearing the worst and that the diff has gone.

What is my course of action from here?

thanks,

mad

[Edit by Mog - I have merged this thread with your previous one as it's pointless and confusing starting a new discussion about the same problem!]

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It's likely to be a front half shaft as these are supposed to be the weaker link and break before the diff. It's hard to tell which one it is likely to be. Short ones normally break first, but last time I stripped down the short side and it turned out to be the long so ended up replacing both as the otherone had a twist in it so was likely to break soon anyway.

Jon

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If a halfshaft has gone, and the diff nose bearings,crown/pinion wheel is even just slighty stiff, turning the 'good' wheel will just rotate the broken halfshaft in the opposite direction. So it's not telling you anything new.

Bad luck since it's the front axle, you need to start checking each drive flange, then the CVs, then the half shafts.

You could pull the swivels and hubs off whole, to check the half shafts, but they're quite a big lump to lift in one go.

Edit: took too long replying to that one! there were no replies when i started.

Gromit's idea of looking through the filler hole is a good one.

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Are you peering in at the diff through the filler plug?

Not yet. Thought I would check if one wheel turned the diff and then I would know it was the other side which was broken.

What happens when you turn the prop flange?

Nothing happens when I turn the prop flange.

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Gromit's idea of looking through the filler hole is a good one.

Actually, it wasn't my idea, it was Lars L's from the other thread. Credit where credit due and all that :)

Anyway, as LML said you won't see anything from the outside due to how the diff works. If you can't see anything through the filler plug you'll need to pick a side and remove the swivel assembly and see if the shaft is broken.

On that note, how do you remove the remnants of the half shaft without an X-Eng tool?

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