LandyManLuke Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 at least with a sails you can pull the diff cover off and fish about for the end, or poke it down the axle tube if it won't wiggle out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted May 22, 2008 Author Share Posted May 22, 2008 Ok, When I look inside the diff and turn the flange, things rotate inside (I take it this is the ring gear). When I turn the nearside wheel, things turn inside When I turn the offside wheel, nothing happens. So, offside half shaft looking like the culprit here? Next question is: I have alloy wheels (which I don't like) so this will need to come off first, then what? I read somewher that the hub needs to come off fisrt. Then the shaft flange needs unbolting then the flange, CV and half shaft just 'slides out' or is there more to this? My workshop manual mentions: And regarding the X-Eng tool, I had spoken to Simon a while back about visiting him. Maybe now is the time to do this as I'm only 5 miles from Horsham. looking on the bright side... I was going to drain the diffs oil this week and renew. At least this happened before I did that. @mods, thanks for combining this with my other post. I wasn't sure if I should do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 yup wheel off, calliper off, drive flange, bearings, hub, stub axle, then the CV and halfshaft (what's left of it) will come out. Then you've got to track down the end of the half shaft. if it's in the diff pan you'll have to pull everything on the other side to get the halfshaft out of the diff, so the diff will come out. the other option is to remove the wheel stations complete, but they're heavy, and you really should dismantly the broken side anyway, to make sure the new halfshaft and CV go back together fully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 So, offside half shaft looking like the culprit here? Looks like it, though it could be a CV. Most likely the half shaft though. then what? I read somewher that the hub needs to come off fisrt. Then the shaft flange needs unbolting then the flange, CV and half shaft just 'slides out' or is there more to this? Pretty much. You'll need to remove the brake caliper to remove the hub. The CV then just taps off the end of the half shaft. Most of what you need should be in the tech archive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 the other option is to remove the wheel stations complete, but they're heavy, and you really should dismantly the broken side anyway, to make sure the new halfshaft and CV go back together fully. I was wondering about that. I imagine it's a bit awkward to the old half shaft out and the new one back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 yup, but it's a short-cut for the good side, if it comes to that. Personally i'd take the chance to check the bearings and CV etc on that side too. once you're oily and the tools are out it makes sense to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 both times that i have had this problem on my disco, it's been the cv joint cage that has self destructed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 Both times that this has happened to me (most recently at the beginning of May), the broken end of the half shaft has been well and truly jammed into the diff. No amount of tw@tting it with a hammer and bar would move it. Diff out and replace was my solution (I do have quite a pile of spare diffs, though). That got the vehicle moving, then I was free to sort the diff out at a later stage. Definitely take the opportunity to check the seals and bearings on the other side, especially as you are going to have to replace all of the oils anyway... If you haven't already got one, a Haynes Manual is quite useful for this. It's often wrong and referred to as the 'book of lies', but I followed it for this exercise and it was quite accurate. It will also give you all of the torque settings for putting it all back together as not everything has to be done up Fin tight!! HTH Adrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted May 22, 2008 Author Share Posted May 22, 2008 Ok, I'm stuck. I don't have a big enough socket for the shaft nut (after bending back the washer with a hammer and chisel). Once I have my other car back together (took the hub off to get the garage to press in a new bearing on the very day the landy broke, how about that for chuffing timing) I can try and buy one, where is the best place to get one and what size is it? Couple of questions: 1) Do I need to remove the big silver ball (swivel hub) to get the halfshaft out? 2) When I gave the stub axle a wiggle it has a lot of play in it and wobbles up and down and in and out. Take it this is abnormal and due to something broken inside? thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 You need a hub nut spanner. Not sure exact size, but if you ask any local LR specialist they will have them for not much money - Premier supply in Guildford, Dunsfold Land Rover in Dunsfold(!), Inside out at capel might even have them on the shelf.... cr/p/addocks have them if you want to go mail order: Hub Nut Spanner hth Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 You can buy big box spanners for those nuts but as a last resort you can release them by striking them with a cold chisel and mallet. Righty tighty, lefty loosey so whack it to the left After this you will need to buy new nuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 You don't need to remove the swivel ball. Once you remove the hub, the CV and shaft will slide out. Depending on what your swivel seals are like, I would take the opportunity to replace them. Then you can use EP90 to fill them with, rather than the 1-shot grease. The wiggle will be caused by the fact that i) it no longer has the circlip holding it back in place (removed when you took the drive flange off) and ii) there is something broken inside. Just a quick question - I can see you have a tray catching the oil, but you have drained the swivel housing oil/grease, haven't you?? If not, you'll get very messy when you take the hub off.... There is a small drain plug on the bottom next to the mud sheild/lower swivel pin bolts. The filler is just above the steering stop bolts on the front of the housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 I presume you checked the splines in the drive member that the outer HS engages with? It is not un common for the splines in these to wear and strip eventually, its the circular bit that covers the wheel bearing , held on with 5 bolts & a circlip on the HS. To get the disc/hub off you'll need a good 12point 14mm socket to undo the caliper bolts , if you round these off its a whole world of hassle . Once the caliper is off & the hub brg nuts are off the hub/disc assy can be taken off. 6 x m10 (17mm head) hold the stub axle on , with the bolts out give the axle a tap sideways to release gasket & pull. CV & inner HS is then visible. I use axle stands under chassis and under the axle too just to be sure work safely HTH Cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted May 22, 2008 Author Share Posted May 22, 2008 Yippeee! My neighbour had a box spanner he uses on his tractor and he was kind enough to go and get it for me. And now I have the half shaft removed and it has snapped so good news. Now need to remove the broken bit so a trip down to Horsham to speak to Simon and also order a new shaft, seals and tab washer as mine has been used a few times. The splines on the drive member are fine so that is ok, and I did drain the swivel oil before removing everything thankfully. Now to find the part number for the shaft and check how many splines it has. As always, thanks for ALL of your help. Many more questions are bound to be asked... mad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars L Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 Looking exactly like the one I broke. I was probably lucky, but I managed to get the remaing stump out with a magnet without any problems. But I heard other stories... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted May 23, 2008 Author Share Posted May 23, 2008 Ok, how do I get the broken bit of the shaft out? I have phoned Simon and he is away down to Seven Sisters so can't sell me an X Shaft. Is there anyone local who has one I can borrow or a large magnet I can attach to a stick? Don't fancy opening up the diff. want to leave that for another year or two.. I am in Ockley on the A29 just South of Dorking. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 pulling the diff is not difficult, it'll just come out once you've taken the prop off and pulled the other shaft out of the other side. It's not like a sailsbury where it's built into the axle housing, it's a self contained unit. You've not got much choice if you can't get a x-shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveBo Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 No idea if this would be strong enough... http://buy.maplin.co.uk/Free_UK_Delivery/T..._Tool_30608.htm but you could get one from Guildford or Croydon branches. Both show them as in stock and are open Sat/Sun. Would 600mm be long enough? I've got one and they have a tendency to go for the nearest thing. I also managed to pull the magnet off. So, you might want to add a bit of epoxy round the magnet to stop it coming off and insert the tool in a bit of hose until you make contact. Only an idea and fairly cheap to try... Good luck. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveBo Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 Not having taken out a halfshaft I don't know what the clearance is between the shaft and the casing. However, looking at the Snap-on half shaft removal tool you might be able to make up something similar using some 1inch copper plumbing pipe i.e. cut some slots in the end of a piece of pipe and push it onto the broken end? If the shaft is wide or you have to use 22mm pipe the ends may need spreading a bit. Plenty of scope for a bodge... Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 May I refer you to my earlier post: Both times that this has happened to me (most recently at the beginning of May), the broken end of the half shaft has been well and truly jammed into the diff. No amount of tw@tting it with a hammer and bar would move it. Diff out and replace was my solution (I do have quite a pile of spare diffs, though). That got the vehicle moving, then I was free to sort the diff out at a later stage.... I did try to use an X-shaft Mk1, but it proved fruitless. Now you've got this far, it's only another couple of hours to get the other side apart... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted May 23, 2008 Author Share Posted May 23, 2008 I borrowed a magnet on a telescopic stick and waved it around inside the axle and the amount of iron filings that came out reminded me of school physics lessons. So, I will remove the diff and clean it out inside otherwise I am just asking for trouble. I take it that I need to repeat what I have done so far on the other side and then just unbolt the diff, or is there more involved? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 Nope, thats pretty much it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 23, 2008 Share Posted May 23, 2008 I borrowed a magnet on a telescopic stick and waved it around inside the axle and the amount of iron filings that came out reminded me of school physics lessons. So, I will remove the diff and clean it out inside otherwise I am just asking for trouble. I take it that I need to repeat what I have done so far on the other side and then just unbolt the diff, or is there more involved? unbolt the caliper & fluid pipe bracket, tie it to the spring out of the way, undo the bolts holding the stub axle to the main axle case & get help & pull the lot off, stand it in the wheel with the studs into their holes, then you can unbolt the diff unit. that's how I did both sides of my front axle when I replaced the diff recently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted May 24, 2008 Share Posted May 24, 2008 Just think of this as a nice lesson in working on Rover front axles. Everyone should know how. As a minimum, replace the hub seals while you are there. That is the nice thing with these early axles, the halfshaft at the diff is weaker than everything else. You can normally be assured that is where it will break..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted May 25, 2008 Author Share Posted May 25, 2008 unbolt the caliper & fluid pipe bracket, tie it to the spring out of the way, undo the bolts holding the stub axle to the main axle case & get help & pull the lot off, stand it in the wheel with the studs into their holes, then you can unbolt the diff unit. Can anyone post a picture of the bolts holding the stub axle to the main axle. I'm not sure which I need to undo and can't find my digital camera. I also spoke to Ollie Turner at Insideout 4x4 (capel Auto Jumble) and he said that when they do this job they just pull it out a couple of inches so the shaft clears the diff. While repeating what I did on the other side is an option, anything that gets this fixed quicker is good in my book. thanks. Ok, found the camera, some idiot had left it on the workbench. are these the bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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