rusty_wingnut Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 I've got a couple of niggling issues with my 1996 300tdi 90, you guys seem to have good knowledge so i thought i'd ask. first problem: the engine has this weird knocking, i've done the cambelt correctly (it did it before), checked the tappets, checked the big ends, replaced the pushrods. valves are straight, fitted new head gasket and inlet,exhaust. it's a weird knocking in that it sounds like a loose big endbut goes away at higher revs and is at its noisiest at lower engine speeds. - help! second problem: neither the heated rear window, interior light or hazards work. It used to blow the big main fuse (link2 IIRC) i found it was the glowplugs shorting, so i disconnected them replaced the fuse and it doesn't blow. however none of these circuits work. I made a lovely job of welding the chassis though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 First problem could be the vaccuum pump - take it off and see if the noise has stopped. Don't know anything about electrics - it's alien science to me Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 I'll second what Les says about the knocking. As for the electrics. No 4 fuse under the bonnet should control the heated rear screen. Hazards and interior light are on another circuit. Look at the fuse box cover to see which one HTH mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CobusG Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 Hi I had the same knock on my 300tdi and consulted various "LR mechanics" who came up with: bearing knock, head problems, etc, etc. One particular LR mechanic listened to it and started to write the job card saying "injector pump timing too fast". The invoice showed the following: Injector valve timing set / reset pump timing. The dreaded knock was gone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted June 11, 2008 Author Share Posted June 11, 2008 HiI had the same knock on my 300tdi and consulted various "LR mechanics" who came up with: bearing knock, head problems, etc, etc. One particular LR mechanic listened to it and started to write the job card saying "injector pump timing too fast". The invoice showed the following: Injector valve timing set / reset pump timing. The dreaded knock was gone! I think mine is only a fraction (with a shove the drill fits in the injector hole) but then how can you tell perfect 12 o clock on the crank? the injector bolts were loosened and the pump is on maximum adjustment. should i undo the belt and the bolts on the pulley and pump mounts, move the cambelt round a tooth on the injector pump pulley and reset the timing from there? I have removed the brake servo but all appears well there - forgot to mention! The electrics are confusing the hell out of me, to be honest my main concern is to get the hazards working to pass the MOT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CobusG Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 I Think this is where Les' advice should come in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted June 11, 2008 Author Share Posted June 11, 2008 I think mine is only a fraction (with a shove the drill fits in the injector hole) but then how can you tell perfect 12 o clock on the crank? the injector bolts were loosened and the pump is on maximum adjustment. should i undo the belt and the bolts on the pulley and pump mounts, move the cambelt round a tooth on the injector pump pulley and reset the timing from there?I have removed the brake servo but all appears well there - forgot to mention! The electrics are confusing the hell out of me, to be honest my main concern is to get the hazards working to pass the MOT also all fuses inside the fusebox are intact Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gruntus Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 I think mine is only a fraction (with a shove the drill fits in the injector hole) but then how can you tell perfect 12 o clock on the crank? You can set the crank exactly at 12 by drilling a wading plug with a drill, fitting the plug in thhe bottom of the bell housing and locking the flywheel in place with the drill. Workshop manual will give you the exact dimensions. HTH Cheers G Edited to add: If you havent locked the flywheel in place as mentioned you could easily be a few degrees out. Check with the workshop manual, lock your flywheel in place and then double check the timing to be sure. Let us know how you get on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 make sure you use the narrow slot as there's 2 slots other is much wider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 I have removed the brake servo but all appears well there - forgot to mention! I think Les said remove the vacuum pump which is at the other end of the vacuum tube Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beekay Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 Sorry, can't help with the engine knock . I have the same year and same model Defender and my rear screen heater didn't work when I bought it. Check one side of the heater foil is connected to earth, usually a short lead and screw connection into the door surround. If you can get hold of a multimeter, check for voltage at the other positive terminal comming up on a wire through the door. Mine had a broken connection on the +ve lead inside the rubber gaiter where the cables pass from the vehicle into the door. I used sharp test prods and pushed them through the insulation until I found the break. Also you could check the resistance across the heater. It should be around 1 ohm. ( well mine is anyway). If there is no resistance no current will flow and your screen heater is damaged! Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted June 12, 2008 Author Share Posted June 12, 2008 Thanks for the replys gents. And to correct myself, i did remove the pump on the engine and the plunger was intact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted June 12, 2008 Share Posted June 12, 2008 This was the cause and remedy of my non working rear heated screen. Hope that helps. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted June 17, 2008 Author Share Posted June 17, 2008 Just a quick update chaps. have re-done the cambelt with the correct bottom pulley (flanged) mine was still using the old type so clearly had never been back to the dealers! It was a britpart pulley but i made sure by welding the front flange on myself and then using the lathe to true it up. The electrics have also been sorted, interior light and hazards all work. There's an earth that daisy chains off the hazard switch and it was faulty so i remade the earth and all is well. Just got to work out why the drivers side repeater light sometimes works and then somtimes doesn't Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gruntus Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 Just a quick update chaps. have re-done the cambelt with the correct bottom pulley (flanged) mine was still using the old type so clearly had never been back to the dealers! It was a britpart pulley but i made sure by welding the front flange on myself and then using the lathe to true it up.The electrics have also been sorted, interior light and hazards all work. There's an earth that daisy chains off the hazard switch and it was faulty so i remade the earth and all is well. Just got to work out why the drivers side repeater light sometimes works and then somtimes doesn't Cheers. Thanks Rusty, was the timing out at all and has your "knock" gone away? Cheers G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted June 23, 2008 Author Share Posted June 23, 2008 Thanks Rusty, was the timing out at all and has your "knock" gone away?Cheers G on the overrun but when pulling hard its loud so i guess the timing must still be wrong. One thing does bother me a bit, the front edge of the belt is wearing again, but this time on the tensioner how easy is it to advance the pump ( i guess it needs advancing if the on the overrun the knocking disappears- some twisted loic there) I don't get it, when the drill is in the pump hole and the crank is spot on 12 o clock as per the flywheel hole and the cam notches line up how the hell can the timing be wrong Can anyone reccomend a garage in surrey or south london to take a look, or any experts locally who'll take a look in exchange for a bottle champers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted July 18, 2008 Author Share Posted July 18, 2008 What an absolute nightmare. I now have a wading plug drilled and fitted with a steel insert to fit the flywheel, a 9.5m drill in the injector pump and the clanking is still there. It's weird after a good re-time (not my 3rd or 4th now ) the vehicle runs lovely no clanking and feels like a 300tdi. Yet after a high speed jaunt it goes back to a clanking bag of spanners. When it is clanking it struggles to clear 55mph It has to be new injector pump time? I've fitted new injectors, done the cambelt correctly, checked it about 4 times along with tension etc. The reason i suggest injector pump is that, when doing the belt i found the pump quite difficult to turn, not similar to my TD engined Series 1s pump which is free and easy to turn. Could this resistance be throwing the timing about? Any help greatly appreciated before this starts costing lots Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted July 18, 2008 Share Posted July 18, 2008 Take off the aircon idler or the plate if no aircon. Undo the three 10mm bolts a bit. Put spanner on the big nut. Oink it clockwise to advance, anticlock to retard. In the workshop we always test out tdis with a Snap-on timing tester which attaches to no 1 pipe and then you can use a petrol timing light to check the timing using the mark on the timing case and the saw-cut in the damper. We normally find that if set using the pins, etc, the timing is 6-8 deg btdc, and it should be 10 degrees. So we try to fit the belt so that a little movement is available in the advancing direction on the injector pulley. Getting the timing to 10 degrees can make an amazing difference to the way the engine runs and responds. If your engine is knocking it is most likely too advanced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickHodgson Posted July 18, 2008 Share Posted July 18, 2008 Oink it clockwise to advance, anticlock to retard.the timing is 6-8 deg btdc, and it should be 10 degrees. Getting the timing to 10 degrees can make an amazing difference to the way the engine runs and responds. If your engine is knocking it is most likely too advanced. Hi Jim Never really understood advance/retard and btdc. Would going from 6 deg btdc to 10 deg be retarding the engine? Cheers Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted July 18, 2008 Author Share Posted July 18, 2008 numpty moment I've been very meticulous setting the engine up so that when the both pegs are inserted the timing belt is taught between crank, cam, injector pump. So maybe this is my problem suggested by Jim (thanks for your input) I will attempt to retard the pump by two degrees tonight. The fuel consumption is awful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted July 18, 2008 Share Posted July 18, 2008 No No No! Ten degrees Before Top Dead Centre is before six degrees and therefore more advanced, so we normally have to advance the timing a bit. Sometimes it is as retarded as 4 degrees btdc with a new belt. Of course, the manual doesn't say what the setting should actually be (in words that can be unserstood, anyway), but all the guys who have the tools to check it reckon on 10 degrees. It certainly feels right anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted July 18, 2008 Author Share Posted July 18, 2008 No No No! Ten degrees Before Top Dead Centre is before six degrees and therefore more advanced, so we normally have to advance the timing a bit. Sometimes it is as retarded as 4 degrees btdc with a new belt. Of course, the manual doesn't say what the setting should actually be (in words that can be unserstood, anyway), but all the guys who have the tools to check it reckon on 10 degrees. It certainly feels right anyway. so to clarify i have to advance up some where between 2-4degrees? I have tried this previously and it does run better, but never found the sweet spot the clanking is coming from underneath almost, all the exhaust mounts and joints were checked and the downpipe replaced. Loose baffle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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