bishbosh Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Believe it or not, last weekend the engine and gearboxes (200TDi auto and LT230) went into my current project. I reused the TD engine mounts and moved the engine chassis mounts 6" forwards. Decided on this route as new pipework is a damn site cheaper than new props! Also means no bulkhead / trans tunnel work required. Will have to clock the turbo though - looking forward to that... Anyhow, that means I can now start to put the rear bodywork back on, which leads me to my question - Is there a special seal or sealant to use betwen the tub and the sides and the sides and the roof and the top of the roof and the screen? The screen currently has a thin rubber wotsit that may have been adhesive at some stage in its life... Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Yes, defiantly a seal on the windscreen, it comes in a roll and is useful for all sorts of stuff. It looks like there are seals on the sides as well………….. with a whole load of part numbers to choose from.. Here are some pictures Roof………. Sides……. HTH Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Hi Bish Yes you use rubber and foam seals. Seal for windscreen, seal for bottom of sides and seal for top of sides. The side seals glue on top and bottom. I just used normal impact glue. Then you need to seal the front section of the windscreen. I used flexible silicon sealant. For the gaps where the doors and roof section meet LR uses dum dum and ordinary black tape to seal these. They also dum dum the leading edge of the roof section on both sides to seal this up. Lastly use some silicon sealant on top of the roof gutter for the leading 4-6" and all of this should keep it relatively watertight Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted June 24, 2008 Author Share Posted June 24, 2008 Thanks for the advice gents. Has anyone every changed an alpine light rubber successfully? i.e. without breaking the glass!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Alpine lights are held in with the same type of rubber seal as the rear corner windows on a truck cab- rubber seal with a seperate rubber insert. To remove them you will need to pull out the rubber insert and they should then pretty much fall out...ish! To put them back you will need a special tool- looks like a diamond shape of wire on the end of a stick- used to put the insert back into the rubber seal to hold the whole lot on place- they can be somewhat of a pain... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 To put them back you will need a special tool- looks like a diamond shape of wire on the end of a stick- used to put the insert back into the rubber seal to hold the whole lot on place- they can be somewhat of a pain... one of these: I've got one here if you want to borrow it... i'm just waiting for my roof to come back from the spray shop (so i can fit my alpine windows) then i'm done with it for a few weeks. funnily enough i'm just about to bond all the panels together (mainly to try and make the 110 a little more waterproof), i just went to the place thats paintimg my parts and they gave (read: sold ) me a tube of their black silicone stuff. nothing special, just a mastic jobbie type stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 they gave (read: sold ) me a tube of their black silicone stuff. nothing special, just a mastic jobbie type stuff. Jim, If that is what I think it is (my son works in that industry) then its a black mastic bonder that is stronger than the stuff it bonds ............. the only way to remove anything that stuck with it is to cut the bonder...................I have used it for the southdown snorkel moulding on the wing ..........its taken a severe beating and never moved ...............I have also seen it used to put a rubbing strip on a car door ................. the strip was positioned wrong and in pulling it off the door panel bent ! Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLACK CAB Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Jim, Do you have a brand name for the glazing insert tool? or better still a supplier?. Rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 Jim,Do you have a brand name for the glazing insert tool? or better still a supplier?. Rod I just got it off of ebay. Here it is: concept tools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 I have the genuine manual that is supposed to help you diagnose and fix leaking Defenders. It's not big, if anyone wants it pm me with their email addy and I will send it. It is called the 'Water Ingress' manual. One guy in Nicaragua (where it rains a lot) reckoned it helped him, except that it recommends the use of various sealants that he could not get of course. It doesn't rain enough here for me to get worried, just as I get fed up with a wet right foot and want to fix the leak it stops raining for a few months and I forget about it (again). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 it's in the Tech Archive too here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wozzer uk Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 I used a screwdriver and fingers and a whole lot of patience Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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