jimmy_neutron Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 i need to draft proof my engine bay. Not talking sealing it up by any means, i just mean reducing the air flow through the engine bay quite a bit. Anyone else done this ?? Any ideas ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsgetdirty Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 i need to draft proof my engine bay.Not talking sealing it up by any means, i just mean reducing the air flow through the engine bay quite a bit. Anyone else done this ?? Any ideas ?? Why you wanna do that jim?? I would have though cooler the better?? I dont doubt you have a good reason for it I just wondered?? kind regards tris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 let it have as much air flow as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsgetdirty Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 let it have as much air flow as possible. Thats what I was thinking ralph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy_neutron Posted June 25, 2008 Author Share Posted June 25, 2008 Thats what I was thinking ralph Normally Yeah i agree the more air flow = cooler = better. My logic is a bit weird and therefore a bit hard to explain but i'll try. I've got a 200tdi. I did a veggie conversion. The conversion is spot on, and works really well. Because of the conversion i started monitoring fuel temperatures, water temperatures at different points etc. I noticed that my fuel temperature was struggling to get to 65 degrees c. This is not good so cut some diesel in till i could come up with a master plan. Noticed that when driving slower like in the fields etc, i get a good 75 degrees c which i'm much happier with. I then started to monitor the water temperature ( going out to the internal heater matrix line). I found that this was about the same as the fuel temperature. This meant that the heat exchanger etc for the veggie was doing its job but the water temp was too low. In the fields however, the water temp at the thermostat remained the same (thus the dash gauge stayed vertical) but the heater matrix becomes much hotter. This means 2 things to me 1) Cylinder 1 must be running colder than cylinder 4 and thus may explain the 200tdi gasket popping problem ???? Not too sure though. 2) Can never get the cab warmed up when on an open road cos the water temperature is only about 60 degrees when it hits the matrix. Thus my veggie matrix is also never hot enough. Very interested in opinions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsgetdirty Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 I have run veggie for 3 years without mods, I dont recently as the modifications are coming on and need the best for the defender, But my defender runs cool anyway and always has done, Instead of going to all that trouble why dont you get a alloy panel or steel and block a section of the radiator off?? I did that when In the highlands driving through very cold glens and it warmed up great, The heater was hotter. kind regards tris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 If you have a standard LR temp gauge it is lying to you. They read 'in the middle' from 40-110c. Fit a VDO gauge and sender if you want to know the truth. Maybe you should fit one of those WD covers that go in front of the radiator, I have seen them on sale a paddocks or craddocks or waddocks or whatever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy_neutron Posted June 25, 2008 Author Share Posted June 25, 2008 If you have a standard LR temp gauge it is lying to you. They read 'in the middle' from 40-110c. Fit a VDO gauge and sender if you want to know the truth.Maybe you should fit one of those WD covers that go in front of the radiator, I have seen them on sale a paddocks or craddocks or waddocks or whatever. I referenced the gauge, but i have been using an electonic gismo that i move around where i want it. It reads out in the cab. I'm not convinced that a rad cover or ally sheet as tris says will help. When i've got the cab heater on and driving at road speed then i'm not convinced that the water temp ever gets hot enough to even send anything forward of the stat. I agree about the vdo gauge though ... Its on the list, along with a couple of other gauges that are closer to being done. I fitted a kenlowe fan to reduce air flow over the rad. Its just such a cold engine, Its like, when theres so much air flow cooling the engine bay down, it doesn't even use its rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsgetdirty Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 I'm not convinced that a rad cover or ally sheet as tris says will help. ] Tomorrow get a peice of cardboard and put it behind the grill and block the rad, Gaurantee it will raise temps, At slow speeds we will have to see if it raises it enough, Give it a try anyway with cardboard, And change the thermostat incase its weak. tris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSIIA Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 You are measuring the temperature of the fuel and water with a device you can move around. Are you measuring inside the pipe i.e. in the liquid, or on the outside surface of the pipe? Measuring on the surface of the pipe will make a significant difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisM_110 Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 Mr Neutron - You can also swap thermostats. I swap between a 78º[ERR3291W I think] and an 88º for summer/winter use. I just swap over at pre-winter service time. Came from Beamends or possibly Tamar4x4. Works fine with a Kenlowe too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 Cylinder 1 must be running colder than cylinder 4 and thus may explain the 200tdi gasket popping problem ???? Not too sure though not happened to my 14 year old 200Tdi. change to a 88 degree stat first then redo your chaeks, if the heater isn't delivering good hot air, you might need to check adjust the operating cables & air control flaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy_neutron Posted June 26, 2008 Author Share Posted June 26, 2008 i need to draft proof my engine bay.Not talking sealing it up by any means, i just mean reducing the air flow through the engine bay quite a bit. Anyone else done this ?? Any ideas ?? I've got a plan .. Firstly i'll replace the stat. I'll order and fit a couple of VDO water temperature gauges so that i know what the temperature actually is. One gauge will monitor fuel temperature and the other the coolant temperature. Then i'll start playing with blocking of a bit of rad if required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 sounds like you need a new stat - or one that opens at a higher temperature. Aso, (Mines a V8) and the stat has a small bleed hole in it but is surprising how much this vents water into the rad as the top hose and top of the rad get warm very quickly long before my stat opens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 i'd check the stat first then, assuming you do need to keep it warmer then as ^^^ block off part of the rad, change the viscous to electric fan, try some of those seals along the under edge of the bonnet to wing fit, check heater control levers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.