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Defender 90 Door Hinge


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Hi, this is my first post on this forum, but I have got loads of great advice from this site in the past.

Can anyone help.

I'm in the process of trying to replace my Landrover Defender 90, passenger door lower door hinge. However of of the screws which attach to the body is just spinning when I try and undo the screw. I can't see anyway of getting to the rear of the fiting so I can get a spanner on it. Haynes manual is useless...

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

JB

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This must rate as one of the most commonly asked questions on the forum.

Use penetrating oil on the screws, attempt to undo them using an impact driver but don't spend too long because if they don't come off straight away you are going to be drilling the heads off which only takes a few minutes more.

Alway use new fixings (SS if possible) and use plenty of grease or Waxoil on reassembly.

Leave the door closed when you remove the hinge from the bulkhead and that way there is no-need to support it.

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Use penetrating oil on the screws

and give it time to work its way in... Often I don't wait long enough, but have fcound that if you are patient, penetrating oil/wd40/... does a brilliant job.

I got myself in a right pickle with one of my hinges recently, the captive nut was spinning so drilling was out of the question, the angle grinder was the only way out :o

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and give it time to work its way in... Often I don't wait long enough, but have fcound that if you are patient, penetrating oil/wd40/... does a brilliant job.

I got myself in a right pickle with one of my hinges recently, the captive nut was spinning so drilling was out of the question, the angle grinder was the only way out :o

Could you not have hammered a small screw driver or a nail between the screw head and the hinge to stop it spining to drill it?

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Could you not have hammered a small screw driver or a nail between the screw head and the hinge to stop it spining to drill it?

Now you tell me :P :P :P Angle grinder was a lot more fun though :lol:

To be fair I forget just how many screws, bolts, etc... I had already drilled out in my first week end with the 110 fixing this that and the other, the hinge was just another and I figured the angle grinder would get there quicker.

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Now you tell me :P :P :P Angle grinder was a lot more fun though :lol:

To be fair I forget just how many screws, bolts, etc... I had already drilled out in my first week end with the 110 fixing this that and the other, the hinge was just another and I figured the angle grinder would get there quicker.

Tell me about it, a quick prop change turned into having to remove the the transfer output flange and transmission brake after having to grind off stripped prop bolts :rolleyes:

I am geting some new(ish) doors this week so will be taking my hinges off and they are reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeally rusted up. The lower passanger one only opens 30 degrees then the door just hinges on the flex of the alloy door skin (I think it once had a steel frame in it) :P

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Tell me about it, a quick prop change turned into having to remove the the transfer output flange and transmission brake after having to grind off stripped prop bolts :rolleyes:

Don't you love rust eh !!!

I am geting some new(ish) doors this week so will be taking my hinges off and they are reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeally rusted up. The lower passanger one only opens 30 degrees then the door just hinges on the flex of the alloy door skin (I think it once had a steel frame in it) :P

Lots of people diss wd40, but I find that if you soak the nut/bolt regularly with it and let it do its job over time, it usually gets most things undone. I'd start soaking those bolts now ;)

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Don't you love rust eh !!!

Lots of people diss wd40, but I find that if you soak the nut/bolt regularly with it and let it do its job over time, it usually gets most things undone. I'd start soaking those bolts now ;)

Good point, I will start drowning the blighters now

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