JonR Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 I really need to check the tracking on my 110. Is it something I could do myself or am I better off getting it checked on a laser tracking rig, which I suspect is the better option. In which case will any garage offering a tracking check be able to do it. I suppose what I'm driving at here is can a tracking rig used for cars cope with a 110 on 265 tyres. Any wisdom gratefully recieved. Jon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover598 Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 Here's the DIY method B) Still haven't got around to getting it professionally checked yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Can't open that ORRP link (page not found) but the bit of string from front to rear wheels method is plenty accurate enough for a Defender. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 The simplest way is with a trammel. I use an old telescopic radio aerial. Measure at the back.Come to the front.If you have a couple of mm toe out your fine. Oh !! Yes If the aerial is good enough for the Ford Rally Team it's good enough for me. One word of warning. If you get the tracking done "professionally" do not use a drive on plate unless both front tyres are brand spanking new. The drive on plate reads the run -ff tyre and sets the tracking to that. I eat rat poison mike I can cause trouble in an empty house !!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hiatt Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Over the years I have tended to find I get more even tyre wear when I set up the tracking myself rather than having it done 'professionally' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 In my experience nobody will look at the tracking on a LR professionally anyway, excuses range from 'tyres too big' to 'don't want to, it'll be rusty'. String method for me, although use spacers on the rim bead to lift the string out away from your knobbly tyres - my Broncos aren't round so I don't trust the sidewalls to be flat! If you get the tracking done "professionally" do not use a drive on plate unless both front tyres are brand spanking new.The drive on plate reads the run -ff tyre and sets the tracking to that. Can you explain that further? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niall_CSK Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 - my Broncos aren't round so I think you have bigger problems than tracking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonR Posted January 14, 2006 Author Share Posted January 14, 2006 Thats great, thanks for that chaps. The string method seems a really obvious way of doing it....now its been pointed out . I didn't hold out much hope of finding anyone around these parts who would want to take on the job anyway, it was bad enough trying to find somewhere to get the wheels balanced. Jon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Sorry no I can't. I just know that when ever I've used one of those plates with a part worn tyre that the tracking has never been right. I've had to use a trammel myself later after the tyre has been knackered. My preffered tool is the Dunlop Optiline tracking gauge,a simple tool to use. For a proffesional job. Somewhere near you you must have an indepenent commercial garage.These people should be able to track a Land Rover as a wagon generally works on the same principle. I eat rat poison mike I can cause trouble in an empty house !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 I made a tool - now lost - using a laser pointer which hung on the rim (very similar to the grown-up ones). Use a spirit level to get it horizontal. Another bit on the rear rim with a ruler attached. All just folded out of ali sheet and calibrated by hanging both off the edge of a table (which I assumed to be straight) glue ruler in place so it reads say 10cm with 0 degrees and it's easy, knowing the wheelbase to work out the angle (using pythagorus Tan angle = reading on ruler / wheelbase). Don't think it gave a substantially better result than a bit of string though. I'd love to know what the tracking is actually supposed to be set to. different books have quoted everything from 10 degree toe in (which is about what I use) to the same toe out. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 90/110/130 are 0 to 2mm toe out or 0 degrees 0 minutes to 0 degrees 16 minutes toe out included angle least that's what my LR officail workshop manual says Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Ralph is right ...as usual... 0 to 2mm toe out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Ralph is right ...as usual... 0 to 2mm toe out Cheers Mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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