Front shock absorber lower mounting modification?

[Betsy]

I have cpc parabolics fitted to my 2a 109, with es 3000 shockabsorbers. They are starting to give a pretty shaky ride on the front. The problem seems to be excess play in the lower shock bushes. I replace them with new ones and its much better, but only for a short time then they develop play.

They are held onto the post with a large washer and a large split pin. There does not seem to be much compression on the bushes when they are fitted, allowing them to wear away due to movement against the mounting post.

My idea is to cut a thread onto the end of the post and use a nut instead of a split pin, or if this is not possible, cut off the existing mounting post and weld on a suitable stud. I will use a locking nut of course. The aim to achieve more compression of the bush, and reduce any movement between rubber and metal.

Has anyone done this, or have any better ideas?

[Tony Jones]

I haven't got around to doing that as my lower bushes haven't worn yet on my Airportable, but that was exactly what I intend doing also because it can be a bit of a pain trying to fit them at times. Personally i'd like to see if anyone else has actually done it yet too.

[Gazzar]

I believe it was a common modification when series were ued for trialing.

g.

[David Sparkes]

Referring to the original problem, of excessively rapid wear, my instinct is that the bush material is too soft for the shock absorbers.

Just to check, were the bushes you used first time the ones that came with the units, and how long did they last?

I seem to recall you took this to Morocco, and presume these shock absorbers and original bushes made that trip.

Have you used ES 3000 (Pro-Comp) or Britpart Land Rover standard bushes as subsequent replacements?

If Pro-Comp, what do they say about the rapid wear?

Cheers

[Les Henson]

On a series vehicle you have to 'shim' the mounts - in that you add the large washers to compress the mount properly. This is very awkward to do, as keeping it compressed while you put the split pin in is very fiddly. I use a welders sheet metal edge clamp to compress it.

Les.

[Tony Jones]

I used to use an old broken socket that I cut down and a large G Clamp, still was a bit fiddly but thankfully I haven't had to do it again Sounds like a wonderful idea to get the sticky out bits (sorry about the technical jargon ) threaded to make life much simpler when it comes to fitting new ones.

[FridgeFreezer]

Mine are retained onto the pin with an ~M10 fine bolt, but that's Volvo's design not mine.

[Betsy]

Referring to the original problem, of excessively rapid wear, my instinct is that the bush material is too soft for the shock absorbers.

Just to check, were the bushes you used first time the ones that came with the units, and how long did they last?

I seem to recall you took this to Morocco, and presume these shock absorbers and original bushes made that trip.

Have you used ES 3000 (Pro-Comp) or Britpart Land Rover standard bushes as subsequent replacements?

If Pro-Comp, what do they say about the rapid wear?

Cheers

The first set of bushes in the ES3000's did about 6k miles, including a trip to France, and the Desert Storm rally across Morocco and back. I replaced them witnh standard LR (britpart) items, and they have lasted about 3k before wearing out.

I thought about shimming the bushes, but a nut and washer would seem a much better alternative.

[David Sparkes]

Seems we agree the bushes are too soft, with a range of options covering pre-compressing the standard bushes, by either a threaded nut or a shimmed split pin fix; or harder (original) bushes from Pro-Comp.

Assuming they will supply, that's the solution I suggest you go for initially, so you can compare their UK life with the 6000 mile life you got in more arduous conditions.

Have you thought of some hard polybushes? I don't know the ranges available so cannot suggest detail.

Re the nut, I've just put a new split pin in one of mine, and took an opportunity to measure up. (Mid 60's 109 One Ton chassis).

The pin is 3/4" dia, there is 20mm from the end of the pin to the washer, then about 4mm of rubber showing either side of the SA ring mount. The washer is about 3mm, but as you are leaving a washer in place I've ignored it.

So, depending on the width of the SA ring (I forgot to measure my Armstrongs), you have 20mm to get to the standard compression, and a maximum of ~28mm, at which point the SA is knocking against the washer.

How long is a 3/4 UNF or 19mm Nyloc nut? Is 20 to 26mm enough thread?

You may end up facing off the nut by 2 to 4 mm, just to get the locking portion to fully engage.

I have also heard of other people converting from split pins to nuts (perhaps in respect of early RR Classics?), but don't know the detail re Series usage.

Perhaps ask in the Series 2 or Series 3 club forums, or OLLR?

Good Luck.

[dave88sw]

i'd definately try land rover genuine or at least decent quality bushes, rather than sh*tpart before you go and modify anything.

Just my thoughts cos i've had too many bad experiences of britpart "quality parts for land rovers"-hahahaha

[Betsy]

Popped into Land Ranger today, and picked up 4 new washers and split pins. Judging by the thickness of the new washers comapared to the items fitted, this is the solution. I'm going to try putting 2 new washers and split pin on each side. I think the original washers are less than half the thickness of the new ones.

If this does not work, then I'll go for the nut option.

[David Sparkes]

Les wrote "I use a welders sheet metal edge clamp to compress it."

I'm not sure I used the same clamp, but after reading that tip I certainly found that one of the clamps from the welding set did the job very nicely. I was already using a small G clamp to compress the top half of the washer (above the pin), the welding clamp did the lower half, and the split pin just fell in the hole.

Thanks.

PS, It did not occur to me that someone had fitted 'thin' washers. I only threw that 3mm measurement in as a passing comment.

Talking of which, these look to be original washers (one on each shock absorber) as when cleaned off, the outlines of previous split pins (eye and two separated legs) are visible, where contact has very slightly fretted away the surface of the washer.

Good Luck