Naks Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 Hi all! I'm new here and hoping someone will be able to help me out with this problem on my 2005 defender 110 Td5 double-cab. The story thus far: I bought my landy in Feb 2008, it had already been modified extensively by the previous owner: Dastek ECU Chip, OME Suspension, Snorkel, LR Tank, H2O tank, Dual Battery system with power outlets all over the place, IPF Spotlights, Bucket Seats, Bull Bar, Roll Bars, Sump Guard, Fuel Tank Guard, Lockable Canopy, etc. When I took delivery, there was a grinding noise from the front axle when turning full-lock, because the tyres were too big - 285 BFG AT's and rubbing against the suspension arm, so I changed them to 265 ones and that was solved. Went off-road a couple of months ago, and on the way back this grinding noise started coming from the front axle at 60kmh only, under drive or coast. I took it to a defender specialist who took apart the entire drivetrain, until he found that the OME lift of 75mm was above LR specs, and the front propshaft's angle was too steep. So he replaced the front propshaft with a double cardan one, reset the diff settings which were a bit off, re-oiled & re-greased everything. The landy now runs super smoothly, and feels like a new one all the way to 120kmh. BUT, the tyre grinding noise has returned when turning at full-lock!? Why is this happening again, the tyres are the same! Can anyone shed some light on this for me please? I've attached some pics of the new propshaft & front right suspension. Thanks Naks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 first off, double check to see if the garage reset the steering lockstops - could be they have adjusted them and the tyres are again rubbing the radius arms on full lock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naks Posted September 11, 2008 Author Share Posted September 11, 2008 first off, double check to see if the garage reset the steering lockstops - could be they have adjusted them and the tyres are again rubbing the radius arms on full lock. hmm, could be. If it is that, how easy will it be to fix it myself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 Very - a couple of 17mm (or maybe 19mm, can't remember!! ) spanners and two minutes a side should see you sorted. The steering lock stop is simply a bolt that screws into the hub. The more it sticks out, the more it restricts the hub rotating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 19mm it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted September 11, 2008 Share Posted September 11, 2008 Unless you're me... then you have a lock stop with a rounded off head and have badly welded another nut to it so it's too long and restricts steering lock on one side, but at least you pass the MOT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naks Posted September 12, 2008 Author Share Posted September 12, 2008 Very - a couple of 17mm (or maybe 19mm, can't remember!! ) spanners and two minutes a side should see you sorted. The steering lock stop is simply a bolt that screws into the hub. The more it sticks out, the more it restricts the hub rotating. erm. ok. considering my DIY skills are mostly restricted to connecting my DvD to the TV, this can't possibly go wrong anyone have any pics perhaps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted September 12, 2008 Share Posted September 12, 2008 This is the lock stop bolt (the large one in the centre with a 19mm head) Jack one front wheel off the ground. You turn it in or out to adjust the point at which your wheel will turn no further. Adjust it until the closest point of the tyre inner wall is 3/4" away from where it contacts the radius arm. When you lower the vehicle back down - the gap will reduce, but there will still be enough clearance. Do the same both sides. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest noggy Posted September 12, 2008 Share Posted September 12, 2008 Another solution to rubbing wheels would be to buy rims with more offset, or to use a set of wheel spacers. i also dont understand how steering at full lock effects your propshaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naks Posted September 12, 2008 Author Share Posted September 12, 2008 i also dont understand how steering at full lock effects your propshaft it doesn't. I think when the mechanics re-assembled the front axle they must have put everything back to 'normal' settings, including the lock stop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted September 12, 2008 Share Posted September 12, 2008 Just to clarify Les's photo, it's the hex-head bolt that's running "across" the photo. The square headed plug pointing towards the camera is an oil drain - that won't help you with any grinding noises... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naks Posted September 12, 2008 Author Share Posted September 12, 2008 Just to clarify Les's photo, it's the hex-head bolt that's running "across" the photo. The square headed plug pointing towards the camera is an oil drain - that won't help you with any grinding noises... thanks. i kinda figured that part out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted September 12, 2008 Share Posted September 12, 2008 The big clue is that it's not a 19mm head Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naks Posted September 12, 2008 Author Share Posted September 12, 2008 Ok, I was still confused so I crawled underneath the landy and took some pics. The first one is of the right front wheel from the back. There are 2 bolts, I've highlighted them in blue and red, but to me they look like part of the brake assembly. The second one is of the right front wheel from the front. There's one bolt that I could see that sticks out a bit, highlighted in red. I've also found this PDF document which details how to do this, but according to the diagram, it looks like a bolt from my first pic!? which one is it? Defender_Steering_lock_adjustment.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8bertha Posted September 12, 2008 Share Posted September 12, 2008 Its definately not either of them on the first picture, one is a bolt that holds the brake caliper to the axle, the other is one that holds the 2 halfs of the caliper together!! The second picture looks like a winner tho! The hole is threaded and the nut on the other end locks it in place so that it shouldn't be able to turn. IIRC the nut also holds on the brake stone guard thingy. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Attryde Posted September 12, 2008 Share Posted September 12, 2008 The lock stop is the bolt in the second picture (there should be one on each hub). The left hand one stops the right hand wheel rubbing and vice-versa. Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted September 12, 2008 Share Posted September 12, 2008 Yep, picture two wins the prize! Now go and be brave with your spanners!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naks Posted September 12, 2008 Author Share Posted September 12, 2008 Yep, picture two wins the prize! Now go and be brave with your spanners!! baaah, spanners are for wussies! Here in Africa we use our bare hands & fingers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.