200tdi overheating?

[simon a]

Just bought a 110 (K reg) fitted with a disco 200tdi engine. Runs well, but temp gauge quicly moves up to rhs of white band (but not quite into red). Electric fan then cuts in and runs most of time whilst engine running. Radiator and water pump appear OK. Have noted that has 88 thermostat (correct according to LR). Has also got electric fan (Bosch) on relay and thermostatic switch fitted in radiator top hose - not sure of source of switch, but has '90' stamped on it.

Understand that incorrect temp guage readings are common on disco engines conversions, but more concerned re elec fan running all the time. If '90' relates to temp when switch activates - is this not too close to 88 when thermostat opens?

If so, where can I get another thermostatic switch? also can I get a suitable sender unit to match temp guage - think car was originally petrol as has choke pull under dash.

thanks

[daveturnbull]

Not really answering your question, but the disco 200tdi in my defender hybrid runs at a steady 85 degrees. That's with a viscous fan and a capillary temp gauge. I'd recommend the TIM capillary gauge as it gives a definite accurate reading - no need to guess or try and match senders and gauges.

[simon a]

Dave

Are you using a 82 degree thermostat?

Thanks

simon

[Milemarker Type S]

IIRC the thermostatic switch for the fan should be in the bottom hose so that it is sensing the temperature of the water coming out of the radiator... not the water going in.

[mudmad]

i had the same problem , jet washed the rad and intercooler and removed the termostat for good measure and works fine now sits at a quater

[western]

Discovery 200Tdi engines cooling system temp gauge senders don't like 90/110/Defender temp gauges, you ned to use the Defender 200Tdi sender PRC8593 in the Discovery engine to get reliable reading on the existing temp gauge, this has been mentioned many times in post about this particular engine swap.

[simon a]

Have also been told that PRC2505 (with adaptor ERC 8973), rather than prc 8593 should be used. Does it depend on what engine was originally in car - think it was petrol as car still has choke pull.

Advice on which thermostat 88 or 82 would also be appreciated, as well as wher to put the therm switch for the fan - some say bottom hose / others top?

Thanks

[Milemarker Type S]

as well as wher to put the therm switch for the fan - some say bottom hose / others top?

The top hose feeds the hot water to the radiator and the bottom hose takes the cooler water away IIRC. The radiator can cool the water to an acceptable temperature the vast majority of the time without needing the fan. If the temp sensor is in the top hose it will run when the water entering the rad is hot enough to require it and thus be running most of the time. You want it in the bottom hose so it only runs when the water exiting the rad is too hot- i.e. the radiator is not enough on its own and needs the fan to assist the cooling.

[GBMUD]

^^^^^^^I agree 100%^^^^^^^

One thing to look for is the condition of the radiator. On my old 90 the fins on the outside of the rad were in fine order but inside the rad where you really needed a torch to look in from the front, there were no fins. The car was fine around town but on motorways there was just not sufficient surface area to deal with the extra fuel needed.

I would go with Ralph's suggestion first and get a sender matched to the gauge.

Chris

[western]

if your temp gauge has a solid white area on the face it's PRC7311 upto chassis ja916595 [works with the Defender 200Tdi sender PRC8593

or if it has a scale then it's probably AMR2631 from ka928140 which also works with the sender detailed above

or it might be amr2070 fitted between the 2 chassis numbers shown above, so it should work with the same sender too as it's the factory fitted 200Tdi temp gauge.

[davelr4x4]

I had similar overheating problems on my Defender and had many fins missing off the radiator. I ended up just putting a new radiator in. They're 99 quid on eBay and not too much trouble to fit. While doing the job I put in a new thermostat and noticed the one in it was 82 and the one I got from LR is 88. Sure enough the engine runs much hotter (needle just to left of the red) but stays rock solid at that temperature even when pushing it hard.

I have wondered whether I should put the 82 back in to cool things down a bit, but I know the 200TDi does like to run quite hot. My viscous fan is not cutting in at all so I presume it must be OK.

Just my 2 cents worth,

Dave.

[western]

Dave, that's not right temp gauge should be running just left of vertical, my 200Tdi temp gauge sits there with a 88 degree stat in even during long runs & hard work.

[davelr4x4]

Dave, that's not right temp gauge should be running just left of vertical, my 200Tdi temp gauge sits there with a 88 degree stat in even during long runs & hard work.

Hmmm, interesting thanks Western. I put a new sender in at the same time so that's odd. With the 82 in it was bang in the middle most of the time, but rose alarmingly when worked hard. Any ideas?

Regards,

Dave.

[western]

could be a duff or incorrect sender, PRC8593 is the correct one for a Defender 200Tdi engine.

[simon a]

Thanks everyone

Rad replaced, which seems to have stopped fan coming on all the time. Guage still at rhs of white band - have ordered new sender unit as advised.

Simon

[davelr4x4]

Thanks everyone

Rad replaced, which seems to have stopped fan coming on all the time. Guage still at rhs of white band - have ordered new sender unit as advised.

Simon

I'd be interested in your experience Simon, mine reads at rhs of white band also and I was going to try changing the sender unit myself.

Regards,

Dave.

[Cat_J]

Mine sits to the right of the white band too. The rad does appear to be missing quite a few fins at the top. I had considered an uprated one from allisport if I was going to change it at all.

[simon a]

Fitted new sender - PRC8593, still got same problem. Pretty sure not really overheating as never goes beyond rhs of right band and rad/ thermostat/water pump all new.

Car first registered december '09, not sure of original engine (but assume petrol as has choke pull under dash) but now has 200tdi from Disco.

Any ideas??

[hoarebag]

I have the same problem. The needle sits at the end of the white bit/middle of the black bit. It's always been the same since I fitted the 200tdi. Since i fitted the 35s it seemed a bit higher so i replaced the rad, thermostat (with the standard disco 88deg), water pump, and replaced the 2.5D sender (which seems to fit the 200tdi fine) with a Steve Parker sender.

The temperature indicated on the clock seems to rise if i put the lights or overide the electric fan on so i guess there might be a connected earth fault with the dash cluster but i haven't had time to look at that. I don't have a viscous fan but the X-fan switch in the bottom hose rarely ever switches the fan on.

I don't think the head gasket is gone as it doesn't continualy rise and having the gas in the header sniffed with the blue liquid says no exhaust in the coolant. Any more ideas?

[JimAttrill]

i had the same problem , jet washed the rad and intercooler and removed the termostat for good measure and works fine now sits at a quater

I suggest you RTFM before removing the thermostat. You may have the pump bypass open all the time which means that little coolant will go through your radiator. At least that's how it works on the 300Tdi.

[hoarebag]

Sorry what's RTFM?

[Retroanaconda]

Read the ...... manual.

Fill in the gap yourself

[hoarebag]

Aah all becomes clear. Ta.

[davelr4x4]

I don't think the head gasket is gone as it doesn't continualy rise and having the gas in the header sniffed with the blue liquid says no exhaust in the coolant. Any more ideas?

Sorry, blue liquid??

Regards,

Dave.

[hoarebag]

It's a thing like a battery electrolite tester full of a blue liquid that changes to green in the presence of exhaust gasses. CO2 i believe. It sucks the air/exhaust from the top of the header and bubbles it through the liquid.