bobtail84 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Went out dataloging yesterday morning then parked the car in workshop and went to work. Back from work this evening so car stood for about 30hrs, car started on the button but NO oil pressure showing on gauge and red idiot light on dash stayed on... Stopped motor pronto. Took dizzy out and used a special LR tool to spin oil pump with drill. Oil pressure back up and idiot light out & no probs at the moment. Will check 1st thing in morning but has any one a clue as to why the oil drained down. No oil on floor and on the high mark on stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 If the oil pressure was zero when you started i would expect to hear knocking after a matter of seconds. It may have been a partially sticking open pressure relief valve reducing pressure to the point where the light comes on but just enough to provide some lube to the bearing shells. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 ^^^ What he says Or faulty sender which I think also powers the light - do you have a more relaible plumbed in oil pressure gauage ? There are a few other exotic could be's but they are rare, would suggest one of the aboves 1st call Nige PS love the sig - infectious innit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
istruggle2gate11 Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 There are a few other exotic could be's but they are rare, would suggest one of the aboves 1st call Nige Do share - intrigued! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 I don't want to get too technical, but have you checked the dipstick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobtail84 Posted October 11, 2008 Author Share Posted October 11, 2008 I don't want to get too technical, but have you checked the dipstick? The 1 in the engine or steering the car... yep I've checked the stick and its still got the full length and oil to the right marks. I will check the sender and the gauge. Its the original RR fitment so.... I also it does sound like the pressure release valve so if no pressure this mornin I'll whip the pump off. Thanks for the input, will keep y'all informed. Jeff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coastcard Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Are you using a thin sexy modern oil? By the sound of it you have the 'old' pump style, which if worn (or even if in reasonable nick), may not have the necessary oomph to move the oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Do share - intrigued! Know of one that puzzled many for a long time in a racer, turns out the srainer in the sump had sheared off ! The oil pump drive gear (long one) has a pressed in rod that does the driving, one got so hot the pump rod would give and spin just a bit now and again, oil pressure went from OK to nothing and back again in a matter of secs took some working out too nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Someone I know had a problem where a big lump of crud in the sump was getting picked up and would stick to the oil strainer, causing loss of pressure. Switch off, restart, it drops off and everything's fine again until you hit a certain RPM Agree if you're using anything thinner than 15W40 you probably want to change back to something thicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Sounds like the oil pressure relief valve was not seated properly…………..may have been a bit of sh!t in there, but it is also a known problem area due to any scoring on the ali bore causing the valve bullet to stick. When this happens and the valve remains slightly open with the engine off, then oil will slowly drain from the pump housing to the sump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobtail84 Posted October 14, 2008 Author Share Posted October 14, 2008 I was using 20-50 duckams Q "for the older engine..." but ive run some flushing oil in the engine and now put 10-40 semi synthetic and new filter as recomended in the RR manwell... then a nice man told me ive wasted me hard earned and should change it for VR1.... I think i will leave it in for the rest of the week to act as a flush again.. just like i ment to.. By the way thanks for your top tip Nige.. Bull Bar Cowboy Sounds like the oil pressure relief valve was not seated properly Had a look at the bullet but all looked fine so it probably was a bit of sh!t in there somewhere. Jeff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 Sounds like the oil pressure relief valve was not seated properly…………..may have been a bit of sh!t in there, but it is also a known problem area due to any scoring on the ali bore causing the valve bullet to stick. When this happens and the valve remains slightly open with the engine off, then oil will slowly drain from the pump housing to the sump. i've had this before, the prv sticking and thus no oil going round. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheltie50 Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 I always though the v8 pump wasnt very good at self primming hence the need to pack it with vaseline after a rebuild or very long standing, if that is right I'm surprised you managed to prime it by just turning the drive which makes me think, bad conection or faulty sender, what age is the R/R if it's older with a pressure gauge it should have 2 wires and 2 senders on the pump one for the light and one for the guage, not so sure about later ones. As said it should have been clattering after a few seconds of running with no oil pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 I always though the v8 pump wasnt very good at self primming hence the need to pack it with vaseline after a rebuild or very long standing, if that is right I'm surprised you managed to prime it by just turning the drive which makes me think, bad conection or faulty sender, what age is the R/R if it's older with a pressure gauge it should have 2 wires and 2 senders on the pump one for the light and one for the guage, not so sure about later ones.As said it should have been clattering after a few seconds of running with no oil pressure. they prime just fine for me you can use vasaline if you want, but i just turn them with a drill or just turn it over with no spark if i'm being lazy ! G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.