draper40 Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 Hey, I am currently debating whether to get my winch rebuilt/DIY or get a new one. I thought I would add some pictures to see what you think. Thanks Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
draper40 Posted October 17, 2008 Author Share Posted October 17, 2008 Inside the motor housing: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 What's the worst it's going to need Pete ? A new motor ? Rebuild it Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrHT Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 It's a warn no question rebuild. Because by the time you've paid out for a cheep 400 quid winch you could rebuild it for less and still have a better winch. APart from looking a little taty whats actually wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmy511 Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 id treat yourself (its nearly christmas) and you deserve it! buy a new 8274 and sell that old thing to me, cheap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
draper40 Posted October 18, 2008 Author Share Posted October 18, 2008 I'm not convinced I know what's wrong. I'm pretty sure the motor's had it though. Where can I get a new motor from? How easy would it be to convert it to a lowline with an albright? Thanks Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 Ultimately it depends whether you have lots of £ and can afford to buy new/are too lazy to rebuild. However I don't think what you have there is past revival. I rebuilt my very early (3rd-hand) M8000 some years back, the gearbox internal components were seriously rusty, but everything cleaned up good enough to work very well. Some of the parts, such as the brake assembly (was seized up) were no longer available from Warn. I spoke to Bill at Arbil about parts, gave him the serial number, he was most helpful, faxed me part diagrams and all, just couldn't get me any obsolete parts . Further investigation showed most of the brake parts could be salvaged. The needle roller clutch bearings were available from my local bearing supplier at just a few £ each. My local auto electrician who's in his 70's checked the motor over, gave it a clean bill of health, so a few beer token were issued there. The rebuild ended up costing very little at all, so my vote is defo to rebuild yours, and if you need a few parts, go to the local engineering suppliers if you can. Good luck with your rebuild Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 I'm not convinced I know what's wrong. I'm pretty sure the motor's had it though.Where can I get a new motor from? How easy would it be to convert it to a lowline with an albright? Thanks Pete The motor may just need a clean up. Check the brushes and commutator are in good condition, and that the spindle bearings allow it to rotate freely. If you've done all this get an lecky engineer guy to check it out. I would have thought any of the Warn dealers could get you a new motor. I'm sure someone here can recomend who to go to. As for the lowline idea, does it look like the bridge part unbolts from the rest? If not you could cut that part off. Albrights are a good idea, they may sound expensive, but you only need one of them to replace the four warn ones. Also they work when you need them too. Very glad I changed mine. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrHT Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 to test you motor put 12v to A and earth the casing then 12v to either f1 or f2 it should work and show your solinoid to be faulty. changing the solinoid to an albright is easy. If you buy won from a reputible dealer like gigglepin gwyn lewis and not cheap c**p off ebay they'll sendyou a wiring diagram as well in simple us mear mortals type writing. thought you were thinking about a new winch or have you seen the light? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
draper40 Posted October 18, 2008 Author Share Posted October 18, 2008 I was thinking about buying a new winch- but now think rebuilding may be better. I know changing to an albright is easy but mine is currently a bridge model. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 Putting 12v between armature (A) and earth may well fry the motor anyway if you've got a battery/cables that can deliver a decent amount of current. It's the equivalent of sticking 24v through a 12v motor. It's a series wound motor, the field winding is designed to be in series with the armature and, hence, only needs to be designed for, effectively, 6 volt operation on a 12v motor. There's no point in connecting 12v to F1 or F2 because you've not connected the other side of the field winding to anything anyway so the motor won't do anything using the described above, apart from risk burning the armature winding out. To test a series wound motor correctly, connect the casing to earth, connect 12V to F1 and then connect F2 to A. To check it in the reverse direction connect 12v to F2 and then connect F1 to A. Changing to Albright is probably a good idea anyway and as has been said before, rebuild it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrHT Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 Thank you for correcting me I did it years ago and couldn't quite remember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
draper40 Posted October 18, 2008 Author Share Posted October 18, 2008 On the advce given I have just spent the past 3 hours dismantling the winch. Most of the inside looks good. All the gears have been soking in petrol and are now nice and shiny! The lever wasn't working but now is, but how does the machanism actually work as you twist the freespool lever and the outer rim moves up and down but nothing else happens, am I missing somethingor is that how it works? The relays all switch well and 3 of them have 0.2 ohms across them when switched but the other has 1.2- is this a problem? The motor is going to need replacing as is the brake assembly. Is the bowmotor just a straight swap? Thanks Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
draper40 Posted October 18, 2008 Author Share Posted October 18, 2008 Which grease should I use in the gearbox? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 bowmotor is a straight swap. The freespool lever just moves across a ring gear that locks into the gearbox. Nothing more than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RTF Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 You can use one shot same as in swivels or 00grease don`t use to much or cable will be hard to pull out Had a friend who bought a new winch at billing every had to pull out on freespool so took gearbox of and dismantled washed some of the grease out of it and added gearoil works a treat now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
draper40 Posted October 18, 2008 Author Share Posted October 18, 2008 Does anybody know where I can get some paint of the right colour to make it look a bit smarter? Is this rope okay to use with the winch or do i need to invest in some bowrope/plasma? Thanks Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robhybrid Posted October 18, 2008 Share Posted October 18, 2008 I have painted a winch before now with "steel wheel" spray can paint. The picture shows what looks like a plasma/dynema style rope, depending on what you are planning to do with it It could well be serviceable, check for signs of damage to the rope though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
draper40 Posted October 19, 2008 Author Share Posted October 19, 2008 Can a 5-pin winch control be used in a 3-pin socket as it has lots of blank holes on a warn? Thanks Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 Does anybody know where I can get some paint of the right colour to make it look a bit smarter?Is this rope okay to use with the winch or do i need to invest in some bowrope/plasma? Thanks Pete I'm concerned I can see a missing bumper to chassis bolt in this picture. Hopefully you'll be fitting one there after your rebuild Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RTF Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 If you change to an albright will only require 3 wires out of the 5 red live green to wind in left spade black to wind out right spade and run an earth from the bottom of the motor to the center spade on the albright As for the missin bolt if you look close will see the missin bolt is only to hold on the A bar and the bolt to hold on bumper is further back and below A bar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
draper40 Posted October 19, 2008 Author Share Posted October 19, 2008 But currently I only have 3 wires in the remote control socket at the moment! Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RTF Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 Hope this helps taken from the people who know http://www.devon4x4.com/index2.php?option=...2&Itemid=33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrHT Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 Have you considered puting a switch in side. Best thing I ever did don't use the remote now at all. saves having to dig the thing out every time and it getting tangled up in anything you may be pulling through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
draper40 Posted October 19, 2008 Author Share Posted October 19, 2008 Quick Question: i am currently buying some new parts- do you think that the 'brake assembly' comes with pads? Thanks Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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