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Sunday Click - No -Start


JonJon

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Morning

It must know I've been talking about it.

Earlier, It turned over once, then died. Then proceeded to 'click - click' on every key-turn after that. Not being overly technical, I undid everything, checked battery charge and reconnected and it started just fine.

But to save my other half getting stuck or stranded in the week, what could be the cause of click-click-fever? It couldn't have been poor connections because the glow-plug light and battery light came on with the ignition, and the charge seemed o.k?

Following yesterdays post asking for electrical references (thanks for the suggestions) this is in light of every week, a new function going off-line. It's quite exciting actually, we never know what will work or what won't every time we get in it.

Rear screen wash means "indicate right" and reverse light flashing means "intermittent fog wiper". I guess.

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I had the same thing (in John Craddock's car park of all places). Turned out the earth battery clamp wasn't provinging enough of a connection. It was enough to run the auxillary systems and lights, but on cranking it couldn't provide the juice. I discovered it when I accidentally bridged the clamp and the post with a multimeter and there was one hell of a spark :D

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Hi,

You say that it couldn't be a bad connection because the ignition light and glow plug light came on. However, after disconnecting the battery and reconnecting , it started fine.

A clicking solenoid is a classic symptom of current starvation to the starter motor caused either by a faulty/poorly charged battery or a poor earth or positive connection.

A starter motor on a cold diesel engine draws a huge current, any high resistance connections will cause a large voltage drop which in turn drops the solenoid out allowing the battery voltage to come back up and the starter to engage again, and so on... hence the click click click.

Lower current devices such as dash lights and relays will not generally be affected as they do not create enough voltage drop across the faulty connection.

I suggest that assuming you have checked the battery charge condition and found it to be good, you did indeed have a bad connection onto the battery terminal which you rectified by disconnecting and reconnecting.

Still it would be a good idea to check the other connections such as the chassis/gearbox earth and main starter solenoid positive feed just in case.

If after all this you still have problems, get the battery checked properly using a battery analyser or drop tester (Quickfit will generally do this free of charge) or any auto electrical place, and make sure the alternator is charging the battery correctly - winter is upon us!!! :(

Hope this helps.

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  • 4 months later...

Ok folks,

Here is am also stranded with the 'click click' routine.

Of course just in teh middle of a moving house week, where the 110 was really really needed to haul stuff around.....

I am going to try the checks descibed above, but I woudl appreciate some help in locating:

-Earth to battery clamp.

- chassis/gearbox earth

- main starter solenoid positive feed just in case

Any help in locating this owuld help enormously.

Mine is a 1990 110.

Thanks !

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1 earth lead from negative terminal on battery to main gearbox/transfer box joint

1 earth lead from engine block to chassis [on a Tdi, it should be from the PAS pump/alternator bracket to the chassis part of the left engine mounting.

starter leads at the starter, could be a poor/dirty connection.

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1 earth lead from negative terminal on battery to main gearbox/transfer box joint

1 earth lead from engine block to chassis [on a Tdi, it should be from the PAS pump/alternator bracket to the chassis part of the left engine mounting.

starter leads at the starter, could be a poor/dirty connection.

I think it also has to do with the car radio circuit, as that's off too.

I was working underneath teh car trying to disconect the rear propshaft, and was listening to teh radio on the car for an hour or so.

then the radio went suddenly, then the click click.

I thought listening to the radio discharged the battery some, but I tried jump leads, another battery, nothing, just click click and the radio is dead......

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you've probably pulled the battery right down then, charge it up overnight & try tomorrow morning to start it.

I don't think the battery is gone, I tried to jump start it linking to a 7 series diesel engine on, then with another battery...... :(

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hi

it could still be the battery as if it is completely flat it will take all the charge from the jumper battery and still not start better to charge the battery as western says then try again or swap it for a known good one.

if you put a multimeter across the battery and then turn the key the reading should not dip below 10v if it does the battery's flat or dead, if it doesn't change at all then you have got an earthing problem.

HTH

Matt

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if a battery drops below,something around 10.7? volts it can become permanently damaged, i did this to mine, not realising how long i'd had the radio on (and the radio also powered the amp and cd changer so quite a draw) and despite charging it was still dead, took backto battery place (still under warranty and sure enough,it was stuffed. Try swapping out the battery for a known good and fully charged battery, while youre at it, give the terminals a clean up and loosen the earth at the gearbox etc and clean the terminals, you'll be surprised how much better it willturn over.

Dave

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Still stuck, can't start the thing and hence can't be towed.

Question:

Is there anyway I can start it by jumpstarting the starter motor ? ie switching the ignition on, and connecting the battery directly on the starter motor itself ?

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I've had the same trouble on a Td5. The solenoid would pull, but wouldn't power up the starter motor.

It turned out to be inside the solenoid. The surfaces that connect and give power to the starter had worn down. I had an extra starter laying around, but changing the contacs shouldn't be too hard. Removing the starter might prove a challenge though since the top nut is really tight to find. :)

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