santalars Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 I'm getting suspicious if your caliper pistons are so hard to be pushed back. Didn't you have an issue with the brakes getting hot while driving? If the pistons stuck in the brake position there will always be friction between the disc and the pad and they will get hot then. If you have new calipers try how easy they will move and compare yourself. Also If you have them available why don't you replace them in the first place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted November 28, 2008 Author Share Posted November 28, 2008 I'm getting suspicious if your caliper pistons are so hard to be pushed back.Didn't you have an issue with the brakes getting hot while driving? If the pistons stuck in the brake position there will always be friction between the disc and the pad and they will get hot then. If you have new calipers try how easy they will move and compare yourself. Also If you have them available why don't you replace them in the first place? Your suspicions are well accepted Santalars !! I did get to the point where they both ( the pistons) went back to base! The issue here is a good suggestion to a tool which will minimize the effect of the annual hussle which I will be entailing ( that is if I will still keep the Landy I have 1999 td5 110). I used crow bars- One of them got bended and it was the other crow bar that did the job. If you read earlier on in this thread, you will get why I put up this topic. However, I managed to get the Pistons in place and drove a very long distance. There was no smell! and I pumped the brakes several times and yes it is functioning as it should. Nothing heated and no commotions caused at all. I went back to the shop and bought a new G-Clamp and one of the clamps that was described above (by one of the contributors). I think I have little time to be dicting unreal or caliberate issues unreal on this forum!! I guess it is best to take some pics to prove my point. Like the Crow bar issue and so and and so forth . I did not replace the new Calipers because I do not have time.I have just one car and keeping the landy in the garage means I will be completely "maimed" I disdain the use of buses and will not invest in taxis to work and private issues. That is why I did not fix the new Brake disc and the new Calipers. If you doubt me, I will take pictures to prove my point that I have bought all needed from DLS.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtray Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 At work we have a piston windback tool, its got two paddles and a windy thing on the end, very useful for 4 pot calipers. But Most of the time we just use the famous "water pump pliers" basically bloody great big grips. I bought mine from Mac tools for about £25. they're bombproof and get used for a multitude of tasks, good for checking balljoints as well. I also try to keep the pads in the calliper to reduce the chances of jamming a piston up, and also because water pump grips have a habit of animalling the pistons. One of my most useful tools though! Highly recommended! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted November 30, 2008 Author Share Posted November 30, 2008 Arsenal of tools As earlier said I have used many tools at this task and enclosed are some of them which proved futile. The crow bar was helpful at some point (the smaller one) . The hammer gave up earlier on in the "fight". Second crowbar just took a bend. The best weapon I guess is the old brake pad pluss the solid black crowbar in picture!! The water pump plier I have there (blue) helped though but it hurts in the palm when excessive pressure was applied to it:huh: I guess it is time to rest my case.....Thanks to all for the suggestions!!! B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted November 30, 2008 Author Share Posted November 30, 2008 More pics.. New Brake disk and caliper!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gruntus Posted November 30, 2008 Share Posted November 30, 2008 Just a quick point/question. Why not just fit stainless steel pistons? Im going to do this on my rebuild project for all calipers. Has anyone who fitted the stainless steel pistons had any problems since? Cheers G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted November 30, 2008 Author Share Posted November 30, 2008 Just a quick point/question.Why not just fit stainless steel pistons? Im going to do this on my rebuild project for all calipers. Has anyone who fitted the stainless steel pistons had any problems since? Cheers G That was something!! Can one find that on the market? I guess it is the sand particles, old rusted metal and old brake linings that give the tussle with the pistons. I will look for that Gruntus!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OilIT Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 I know its too late now, but if anybody is experiencing the same issues, you can of course get the new caliper from landrover or bearmach et al or rebuild your old one yourself, but you can also get rebuilt calipers from motor factors - in my experience this is a cheaper way of doing it. I picked up 2 the other day for my wifes mercedes at the price of 70. each - 250 from merc dealer! I did the same with the 200tdi defender I had up until recently where again they were 60 odd pounds each - which on the basis I always think brakes and tyres are the biggest contributors towards the difference between life and death I thought it was a good alternative. fwiw I used www.apd.co.uk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted December 1, 2008 Author Share Posted December 1, 2008 I know its too late now, but if anybody is experiencing the same issues, you can of course get the new caliper from landrover or bearmach et al or rebuild your old one yourself, but you can also get rebuilt calipers from motor factors - in my experience this is a cheaper way of doing it. I picked up 2 the other day for my wifes mercedes at the price of 70. each - 250 from merc dealer! I did the same with the 200tdi defender I had up until recently where again they were 60 odd pounds each - which on the basis I always think brakes and tyres are the biggest contributors towards the difference between life and death I thought it was a good alternative. fwiw I used www.apd.co.uk OilIT, it is never too late actually. One guy I talked to on the phone told me certain DIY tasks are not worth the pennies saved! I think it is the same point you are bringing out now. We are not CATS to be risking the one chance we have of our life. This is something worth noting. Many thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 I seem to always end up changing pads at the side of the road somewhere either during or after a competition. I use a large (24mm) ring spanner to push the pistons back one at a time. The curved edge of the ring sits nicely into the hollow in the centre of the pistons and you just lever against the disk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8CAMEL Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 i always find it easier if the cap on the resivioir is off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gruntus Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 That was something!! Can one find that on the market? I guess it is the sand particles, old rusted metal and old brake linings that give the tussle with the pistons. I will look for that Gruntus!! Im sure you can get them from Paddocks. Cheers G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted December 1, 2008 Author Share Posted December 1, 2008 I guess there are many ways at "killing the cat".. One Dav Sparks was against uneven pressure advocated on the Cylinder and here I hear an off-road-Competing Guru telling he unevenly pushes them in! Dav W do you have new Calipers? i guess it is much easier with newer calipers than old rusty onces. My calipers are at least 9 years old. Someone told me they are supposed to las a lifetime ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 I guess there are many ways at "killing the cat".. One Dav Sparks was against uneven pressure advocated on the Cylinder and here I hear an off-road-Competing Guru telling he unevenly pushes them in! SNIP I think you misunderstand what I meant. I really don't mind if you push the piston back singly or in pairs; and as Dave W has mentioned it, I don't mind if you use a spanner or an active hamster (joke). Anything is valid IF, repeat IF, it works. Whatever you had tried clearly hadn't worked. My point about using an old pad, and pushing on that, is that it minimised the chances of you jamming a piston at an angle in the bore. Clearly you can push directly on a single piston, but you have to make sure the push is directed correctly. If you are sure about that, and the piston still doesn't move, the answer is not a bigger hammer (AKA a stronger clamp, crowbar, or whatever) but a stop and rethink to work out exactly what IS wrong. The other point about following the guidelines of people who do competition is that they are into their cars at very frequent intervals. Parts like caliper pistons, propshaft UJ's, etc, simply do not have chance to corrode in place. Plus the operator has developed tools and techniques to work quickly and overcome common obstacles. This is a case where a Road vehicle is harder to work on than a Competition vehicle. The different style of use creates different problems. Regarding the other bit of wisdom you have received, about some jobs are 'not worth the pennies of DIY', this is only true if: A/ You are doing DIY only to save pennies. B/ You trust the person doing the work to both do it properly, and not to go for the expensive option because it's simpler for him and he is not paying, you are! Some of us do DIY because we only trust our own work, because we can do it at a time to suit ourselves (even mid-competition), and it gives us an opportunity to do a visual check on other items in the vicinity, perhaps catching something before it breaks or wears out. And Yes, it does save us money. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted December 1, 2008 Author Share Posted December 1, 2008 I must admit the purpose of this topic has nearly been reached!! Dav S Offcourse I was neither "nibbling" on your ears nor neck. I might have misunderstood most likely ( A thing I seldom do) But points are well taken. I guess new calipers as I have planned will save me the effort!New Calipers move smoothly whiles old ones rufuse to budge. Hitherto, I will repeat this once more -I tried all methods and it worked perfectly well apart from some bended bars and nauseating smells from the rusted calipers. But I still insist like you say on doing all myself even if it costs a fortune! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave W Posted December 1, 2008 Share Posted December 1, 2008 Dav W do you have new Calipers? Mine are 28 years old now, it does help though that with constant competition use pretty much everything on my motor gets cleaned and/or stripped down fairly regularly. It's also an auto so pretty heavy on the brakes so I'll normally put a set of pads in every 6 months, especially after a trip to Ireland where they have special "brake grinding mud" that normally sees me changing pads at the ferry terminal on the way home Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slamfire Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Before removing the caliper get a decent flat head screwdiver between the pad next to the piston and the disk and tap gently the screwdriver down the pad and disk. When in a good inch start levering the screwdriver towards the piston to push in. alternatively there is a tool that can be purchased but is air operated and would not e worth the cost for once a year change. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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