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brake system questions


discojmz

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Ive got fed up of the diminishing performance of the brakes on my D1 and want to sort it out.

essentially, I dont know if theres anything wrong with the master cylinder, but Im going to get one of the repair kits anyway. I do think there might be

but Im also aware that theres some issue with seized or semi seized pistons. ive one caliper that seems to eat pads and one that does the opposite. Time to get this sorted. although braking performance isnt diminished as an end result, Im having to use more pedal than I feel I ought.

few questions about the bits im swapping.

flexis will be changed for braided, but do I fit stock length ones, +2s, or can I even fit +4s to a standard height vehicle or will they get in the way of moving parts?

calipers... do I swap the calipers as a whole (pricey) or do I do the seals, pistons, bleed nipples etc and just clean the bodies? parts for all 4 should be about 80 pounds max, calipers would come to over 200.

If i were to swap for new calipers, do I stick with solid front discs? should they be adequate? do i go for vented calipers and discs? certainly not interested in drilled or grooved for this vehicle.

Is there anything ive overlooked or forgotten?

thanks guys. any opinions appreciated. those with experience attached would be fantastic!

thanks

Jim

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Ive got fed up of the diminishing performance of the brakes on my D1 and want to sort it out.

essentially, I dont know if theres anything wrong with the master cylinder, but Im going to get one of the repair kits anyway. I do think there might be

but Im also aware that theres some issue with seized or semi seized pistons. ive one caliper that seems to eat pads and one that does the opposite. Time to get this sorted. although braking performance isnt diminished as an end result, Im having to use more pedal than I feel I ought.

few questions about the bits im swapping.

flexis will be changed for braided, but do I fit stock length ones, +2s, or can I even fit +4s to a standard height vehicle or will they get in the way of moving parts?

calipers... do I swap the calipers as a whole (pricey) or do I do the seals, pistons, bleed nipples etc and just clean the bodies? parts for all 4 should be about 80 pounds max, calipers would come to over 200.

If i were to swap for new calipers, do I stick with solid front discs? should they be adequate? do i go for vented calipers and discs? certainly not interested in drilled or grooved for this vehicle.

Is there anything ive overlooked or forgotten?

thanks guys. any opinions appreciated. those with experience attached would be fantastic!

thanks

Jim

Have just split the front calipers on my disco and fitted new pistons and seals, a very easy job just make sure you keep everything CLEAN. and fit new o rings between the caliper halves.

If you want vented front discs you will have to replace the calipers as well, i personally would stick with the solid discs and just refurb your calipers.

As for flexis if you have no intention of lifting the vehicle just stick with standard length.

Master cylinder repair, as for calipers just keep everything CLEAN

Regards

Keith

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If I was doing mine again I would just buy new calipers - the effort involved in re-refurbishment and the grief of trying to get the little steel rings in square - and trashing several - is just not worth it..

IIRC a while ago a pair of calipers for un-vented discs were up on this forum for £45.. bargain or what? :o

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Repair if you can, replace if you cant.

If you have the time and the abilty for a refurbishment this will increase your understanding of the system and may be useful later.

If you are not towing frequently the standard disks should do fine as they are already a bit overrated. Also cheaper to replace.

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Personally - i'd also just replace the callipers. If you are doing itself it's not as bad - but if your paying someone else, it's cheaper to buy new.

I'd go for vented on the front (using late 110 front callipers - if you have a 300Tdi) with decent discs (OEM is good enough) and decent pads.

On the rear just go standard - again with OEM discs and pads.

Braided brake lines and new fluid also helps.

With your master cylinder again, from a cost vs time point of view, I'd just go new.

Regards

Ian

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thanks guys. should have said before, it's a 200tdi.

I'm still considering both options. Its quite a cost difference, but I'll do me sums once i get paid and see how much I can afford the upcoming MOT to cost me. thankfully it doesnt need any welding still, but she's starting to feel a bit loose around the steering too. always the same story!

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I wouldn't bother with Vented

I would rebulid my own calipers first.

if money is plentiful then buy x2 new ones but genuine genuine/oem not replacement copies

I got a rear replacement 1/2 the price of a genuine one

it was rubbish I took it back and asked for a OEM one instead.

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I never rebuild master cylinders. If it fails everything is lost whereas most systems are designed to cope with the failure of a wheel cylinder.

I looked at rebuilding callipers but you get all the bits and start only to find one bore scored and another corroded so you then buy new callipers and have a pile of service kits left over.

Was advised on here some while ago not to use vented as they can fill up with mud and overheat when back on the road.

Steve

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Was advised on here some while ago not to use vented as they can fill up with mud and overheat when back on the road.

That is interesting - I had vented discs on the RR and never had a problem. The mud certainly fills up the vents, but as the disc heats the mud dries, shrinks and gets thrown out of the disc. Admittedly, not always, but I never had brake fade on the RR. The brakes were excellent.

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