lorca Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 If this is a total stupid question please don't shout at me. BUT, is it possible to convert the standard air conditioner unit in my 110 defender to become a heater. I know it is that time of the year when we are all complaining about the cold. Just putting the question out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellow Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 What 110 Defender? AFAIK the airco can blow hot air, but will take the hot air from the heater core matrix... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorca Posted February 1, 2009 Author Share Posted February 1, 2009 What 110 Defender? AFAIK the airco can blow hot air, but will take the hot air from the heater core matrix... that the problem as you know the heater is dismal in the 110 and I was wondering if you can convert the cold air conditioner to heat without robbing peter to pay paul if you get my drift Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 make sure your heater control cables are correctly adjusted & the air flaps are opening/closing to their full travel. all 90/110 heaters have the same control cable runs so this applies to all BUT the latest Ford engined vehicles. read this http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...hl=feeling+cold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorca Posted February 1, 2009 Author Share Posted February 1, 2009 make sure your heater control cables are correctly adjusted & the air flaps are opening/closing to their full travel. all 90/110 heaters have the same control cable runs so this applies to all BUT the latest Ford engined vehicles.read this http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...hl=feeling+cold Thanks for info. I have great flow and plenty of heat when it eventually heats up but the problem is it takes sooooooooo long. I am trying to speed thing up because the air conditioner is so fast and i never use it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant. Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 that the problem as you know the heater is dismal in the 110 and I was wondering if you can convert the cold air conditioner to heat without robbing peter to pay paul if you get my drift I have the same problem, mainly very cold feet, and the heat ( if any ) comes out one vent luke warm ( thankfully my side ), so thanks for bringing this one as I am interested aswell for anyone who has an answer . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallycinq Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 The really silly answer, is to put a petrol engine in. Diesels don't produce much waste heat, which is effectively what is heating the car. The air con cannot be converted to produce heat, AFAIK. Cheers David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisM_110 Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 Thanks for info.I have great flow and plenty of heat when it eventually heats up but the problem is it takes sooooooooo long. I am trying to speed thing up because the air conditioner is so fast and i never use it A radiator muff will help speed up heating. Mine is a Wilko's door mat with some cable ties. Cost about a quid. If you run some string into the cab you can make it controllable If you search hard enough you may find a lower temp thermostat as well. I used to use an 88º one in the summer and a 72º one in winter. The 72º one is now missing in action in the shed somewhere . I got it ages ago in Cornwall, Tamar4x4 probably, it was for a ROW spec 300Tdi, Saudi or the like. I'm sure someone with a better memory than me will know the part #. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorca Posted February 1, 2009 Author Share Posted February 1, 2009 A radiator muff will help speed up heating. Mine is a Wilko's door mat with some cable ties. Cost about a quid. If you run some string into the cab you can make it controllable If you search hard enough you may find a lower temp thermostat as well. I used to use an 88º one in the summer and a 72º one in winter. The 72º one is now missing in action in the shed somewhere . I got it ages ago in Cornwall, Tamar4x4 probably, it was for a ROW spec 300Tdi, Saudi or the like. I'm sure someone with a better memory than me will know the part #. Thanks for all the advice it looks like a rad muff is the way to go. Where would the best place to buy on be ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101sean Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 My Td5 produces plenty of heat but the aircon ducting means your feet freeze while your knees get toasty. I took a 38mm hole saw to the underside of the duct opposite the heater outlets and taped over the aircon outlets forcing the warm air in to the footwells, get warm feet now. If the aircon packs up I'll probably remove it as it's hardly used, freezes your knees and takes up the passenger footwell! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorca Posted February 1, 2009 Author Share Posted February 1, 2009 clever idea to use the air con in conjunction with the heater.might look into that......... I would also like to take the air con out for the same reason as you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roachy Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 In theory the answer is Yes. but in practice it's more complecated. some industrial and household A/C's do switch over to become heat pumps. basicly the Condensor (high pressure) and the Evaporator (low pressure) switch places in the circuit. for this reason the Evaporator may not be rated to the required pressure so might burst. also you would probably have to turn the Expansion valve round in the circuit, and mabey the reciever and the drier. also then you might have problems with the controls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorca Posted February 2, 2009 Author Share Posted February 2, 2009 In theory the answer is Yes. but in practice it's more complecated. some industrial and household A/C's do switch over to become heat pumps. basicly the Condensor (high pressure) and the Evaporator (low pressure) switch places in the circuit. for this reason the Evaporator may not be rated to the required pressure so might burst. also you would probably have to turn the Expansion valve round in the circuit, and mabey the reciever and the drier. also then you might have problems with the controls. all sounds very complicated thanks for the detailed explanation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santalars Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 A webasto would be cheaper than converting your AC into a heat pump. However, I think Roachy made a very good point. Another Idea would be to get a car alarm with the possibility of a remote start. They are quite cheap on ebay. Then you would be able to start the engine whilst having breakfast and the car would be warm when you get into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Let's all start at the beginning.... The heater is not dismal. The condition of the heating system usually is, though... 1) Make sure your thermostat does not leak at all when closed. There should be no heat at all in the upper rad hose until normal operating temperature is reached. 2) Make sure all the heater cables are adjusted properly. 3) Open up the lower dash vents as they are quite restrictive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GL88 Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 So this question is really 'how can I get my engine to warm up faster'. Not clear if it relates to TDi or TD5 but having driven my TD5 for over an hour yesterday and still barely tepid I have considerable sympathy. First stop for me will be a new thermostat because I suspect that the bypass hole in mine is too large. The alternative is to thrash it from cold which I'll leave to others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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