eds Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Thanks for helping I think my steering UJ's need changing The symtoms are Stiff steering in an uneven way No noises from pump etc No squeel on belt Fluid full No leaks I was hoping for some pointers Is it a straight forward job Do I do both sets simultaniously or top then bottom Do I need to do both sets Can I make a cock up!? Does the UJ have to go back on spline for spline Are ther any tricks to removing the old UJ's Are Paddocks UJ's satisfactory or should I be buying the best I can find ie genuine? I am hoping I just clean them up a bit with plenty of WD40 and then remove the top top bolt and then the top bottom bolt and slide up the splines to remove from upper shaft and then back down the splines to remove entirely. then slide the new one on in a reverse manner trying to get back in similar orientation but hoping this is not crucial. I would then tackle the bottom UJ. I did try to search the database on this but i am either failing or the job is so easy nobody has needed to ask or these things never go wrong and I have a different problem. I know someone knows! So many thanks in advance Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Case has been dropped!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 another case has been dropped!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Erm, isn't this about steering UJ's and not ball joints/track rod ends? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Erm, isn't this about steering UJ's and not ball joints/track rod ends? That's what I thought! Steering UJ's can be a bit of a pig to get off. Best method is to slacken off all 4 bolts and shuffle everything down to one end. That should give you enough room to get a joint off the splines (maybe with the help of Mr Prybar). From there's it's all fairly easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Erm, isn't this about steering UJ's and not ball joints/track rod ends? Errrmm I guess you are right Pal... Read it right afterwards.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Its a simple job if a little awkward. Remove both bolts from the uj by tapping them out after removing the nuts (13mm?) It may be easier then to hammer a blunt chisel into the split in the UJ to loosen it a bit and then it is simply a matter of tapping it up the shaft until it drops off the other end and then knocking it back in the other direction till it falls off. Replacement is the reversal of the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 BTW you have to fit the UJs in the correct orientation so the bolts fit back in. Get it right first time as it is annoying to have to take it all apart again! Soak it overnight in easing oil to make the job go easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Errrmm I guess you are right Pal... Read it right afterwards.... Oh good B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted March 24, 2009 Author Share Posted March 24, 2009 Thanks for all the information relevant and not so far! Could some one be really helpful and let me know if both uj's have to come out together to be changed or whether you can do one uj completely and then tackle the other afterwards. Many thanks again.............. Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 Because one U/J is no good it doesn't mean the other is, so yes - you can do just one. Top is normally the favourite to wear first. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
transporter44 Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 Hi eds. Had to take sons off over weekend (PAS box) they were the easiest, but slightly awkard bit. Plenty WD or easing fluid, cup of tea, think they are 13mm (someone tell me if I'm wrong), turn the wheel until 1st nut facing upwards, spanner to crack the nut, use a long extension bar on a socket to hold it from the top then long arms to get spanner on the bottom (stubby I found the best & ring end) then unbolt it. Repeat as necessary. Only thing is to remove you have to take the bolt out as it fits in a groove. They say refitting is the opposite of removal, will know next week when I have to do it. Best of luck, it looks more daunting than it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wellsy Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 Had same symptons of uneven stiffness on my steering. Told by friend that uj's were the problem causing stiffness, just clean them up in situ and stray with lubricant. Did this and the steering is fine! Try it first before taking them off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinspragg Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 Did mine this morning, it took about 2 hours in total and this inlcuded me dithering around looking for the correct tools. It's made my steering muach more responsive. BTW it was my bottom UJ that was most worn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibex94 Posted April 4, 2009 Share Posted April 4, 2009 You are probably best off doing both joints at the same time. Means you spend less time under ponnet working at arms length . The intermediate shaft has flats machined accross the splines for the clamp bolts to pass over which means the orienation of the UJs along the shaft is fixed - thats the important bit you now cannot get the joints wrongly orientated . I would start job with lots of WD40 on the splines and then orientate the steering so you can get at the bolts and the split part of the casing. Undo bolts and remove then recommend driving wedge into split to ease the stiction. To get the first UJ off you will need to shuffle the shaft and coupling away from each other, as long as you have punches I've not struggled pulling these apart. Would remove the intermediate shaft with both UJs on it the way when you've removed the UJ's you can get a wire brush on the splines and clean them up properly before sticking it all back together with lashings of copper slip. I think the steering box input shaft has a flat accross the splines in a similar fashion to the intermediate shaft - the steering column has a ring all the way round it and isn't sensitive to the orientation of the UJ. Don't forget to ensure steering wheel correctly orientated before driving UJ on If the joints can be got at with steering lock engaged would do that to try and ensure its somewhere close when you've finished. Its not difficult particularly if you can wedge the UJ's to ease them. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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