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Hi

I bought a 1998 Defender 90 200 tdi a couple of weeks back, it has the full off road kit 2-inch lift, all the bells and whistles. However I can't get used of driving it seems to hard to keep in a straight line especially on secondary roads or if I pass 50mph I might as well buy a coffin, It also has dislocating coil springs (black, does the colour make a difference?) with an inner cone, and pro com3 shocks could this be the problem.

A very nervous Ray

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Sounds like you have a bit of a problem there.. You could have a bit more than 2” lift; generally you can get away with a 2” lift with very little trouble.

If you have more than a 2” lift it could be that the Castor angle has changed radically which would require either caster correction arms or bushes.

Alternatively the pan hard rod bushes could be worn, steering ball joints may also be worn, it’s worth checking the swivel pre load

All these things can effect steering.

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200tdi in 1998?

Yeah that doesn't sound quite right!

But seriously your problem could be all sorts of things, and to be honest that last thing i would suspect is the lift causing it. Also check trailing link, A frame and radius arm bushes or steering box may be at fault. Could you describe the symptoms further, is it just all the time or when you accelerate/let off?

Nick

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Hi

I bought a 1998 Defender 90 200 tdi a couple of weeks back, it has the full off road kit 2-inch lift, all the bells and whistles. However I can't get used of driving it seems to hard to keep in a straight line especially on secondary roads or if I pass 50mph I might as well buy a coffin, It also has dislocating coil springs (black, does the colour make a difference?) with an inner cone, and pro com3 shocks could this be the problem.

A very nervous Ray

Does it have castor corrected radius arms on?

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"Lads I really appreciate all the response, but to be honest a lot of it is flying over my head, but I will print all the replies and bring them to a mechanic, " the original engine was changed to a 200 tdi"

As columbo would say "just one more thing" a lad a work sugested that I clip the top of the dislocating coil to the turret top effectivly fixing them ,is this worth a shot ?

Thanks again

Ray

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The springs wont be dislocating as you drive along the road, so fitting clips wont make a difference. Its quite likely that either your experiencing a lack of castor caused by the lift, or that some (or all) of your suspension bushes are knackered.

If you dont need the lift i'd be inclined to remove it... and its probably worth getting new bushes fitted all round, as it will transform the vehicle unless they've been done recently.

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"Lads I really appreciate all the response, but to be honest a lot of it is flying over my head, but I will print all the replies and bring them to a mechanic, " the original engine was changed to a 200 tdi"

As columbo would say "just one more thing" a lad a work sugested that I clip the top of the dislocating coil to the turret top effectivly fixing them ,is this worth a shot ?

Thanks again

Ray

OK, in English.

The pivot that allows the front wheels to steer on the axle should not be straight up and down, it should 'lean back' slightly - only a degree or two - this makes the car steer straight when existing a bend, I expect you have experienced this in other cars, for example when exiting a round-about where you can simply release your grip on the wheel and it straightens the steering by itself. This leaning back is called the 'castor' angle - and it should make the wheels behave like the castor wheels on a supermarket trolley, automatically wanting to point in the direction of travel.

When you add a suspension lift to a Landrover this steering pivot becomes straight up and down and then, as you lift further, it leans forward - this is simply a function of the way the front suspension works.

It is possible to adjust this angle of 'castor' by changing the angle at which the axle bolts to the chassis - either by changing the rubber bushes (like a rubber ring donut!) which isolate the axle from the radius arms (so called 'castor corrected' bushes which are like a donut with the hole off centre) or by changing the hockey sticks themselves. Look under the front of the car, you will see why we refer to them as hockey sticks!

Was that any clearer?

My suggestion would be to obtain some standard (or certainly lower) springs and try again - once your mechanic has checked that all the suspension bushes are in good order. A standard Landrover should be easy enough for a woman to drive. :P

HTH

Chris

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To check in order:

  1. Panhard rod bushes
  2. Drop arm ball joint and all track rod ends
  3. Steering box play (about 2" on the steering wheel is acceptable)
  4. Front radius arm bushes (both ends!)
  5. Rear trailing arm bushes (both ends)
  6. Swivel preload.
  7. Rear A - frame (unlikely culprit, but here for completeness!)

Loss of castor can make straight ahead steering a bit vague, but shouldn't affect control in corners as you are finding. It will also limit the self centering effect.

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I would also suggest getting the tracking/ wheel alignment checked.

If you do end up having to get castor corrected arms you will also need to get a double cardon propshaft to cure the vibrations that will occur.

If you don't need to have the lift I would suggest fitting standard Landrover springs as it will work out cheaper in the long run.

Pete.

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