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Pulling to the right under braking


StreetDragster
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Hi All,

1995 300TDi Discovery 5 door, has started to pull to the right under braking, i'm quite new to landrover ownership and all the bushes, bearings etc this thing has, has over whelmed me, can you give me an idea of what to check, how, and in what order.

So far, i'm pretty sure that the calipers aren't binding, after some repeated braking, i hope out and check the temp of the alloy wheels with my hand, all seem to be the same temp. The car drives ok in normal [none braking] driving, maybe a touch vague but this may be normal for a landrover, its the first 4x4 i've ever had.

The car has 2" extended dampers and springs, and Insa turbo tyres.

Any advice is massively appreciated

Thanks

Matt

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Coulde be the right hand front caliper siezed, or the left hand one not working. If a disc brake is siezing it generates a lot of radiant heat, so just putting your hand near it will tell you (it may be blue as well). Could be air in the system, but this tends to give weak braking in general across the axle - along with excessive pedal travel (sponginess). If you press the pedal reapeatedy/rapidly and it 'comes up', then it'll most likely be air. Brake hoses can collapse/perish internally and act as a one-way valve, so brakes stay on or slowly release after you have taken your foot off the pedal. Radiant heat test is the first thing I would do. It's also worth mentioning that rear brakes doing the same thing can make the vehicle pull to one side, so check all of them.

Les.

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Cheers Les, I've checked all four of the brakes after some repeated braking and they all appear to be the same temp, i've got an infra red thermometer which i'm going to use next just to confirm they are all equal in temp, i'm pretty sure its not the brake calipers, hence this post, as i cannot think of much that would occur under braking, but not under general driving.

I'm wondering if its maybe oil/grease contamination of the left hand disc, as i have some greasy resdiue on the wheels, whcih i suspect is fromt he bearing/swivel. I degreased the disc down at the weekend and its made no difference, although it may be in the pad. I was considering swapping the disc/pads from left to right, and then seeing if the problem moves to pulling to the other side, good idea?

Oh, and it has no anti roll bars either

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Deal with the oil/grease leak first, clean everything up and, only after you make absolutely sure there are no more leaks of any kind on the wheels, replace the pads on both wheels. If the pads get contaminated they will never brake the same no matter how you clean them.

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my 300 tdi did esaxctly the same thing

turned out a seal on the caliper was leaking under braking once the disc got brake carp on it it was less effective

whip your wheels off and have a good look

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mine is pulling to the left under braking. My mechanic said he fixed a stuck calliper, but after a couple of weeks it's doing it again.

I really cannot afford new pads + discs :(

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Well after going to 4 different garages, i'm utterly annoyed, "its 4x4 it can't go on the roller" was the plain blank responce, they didn't listen to me when i said you can neutral the drive fromt he transfer box, it has an open front/rear diff anyway, and even when i took it with the rear prop removed (for something else BTW) they weren't interested. Frustrating

,

However, i have discovered my rear drivers side wheel bearing is knackered, very noisey on rotation but no additional play when jacked up, i'm about to fix it this weekend, whats the chances this is causing my braking problem?

Thanks

Matt

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Play in a bearing can cause the pads to back off on that wheel, so when you brake the pressure will be reduced as some of the fluid will be used to push the pads back against the disk. I'd expect it to be a bit spongey though...

What is the score with putting landrovers on a brake tester anyway?

The center diff is open, so i cannot see any issue with running the car on the brake tester at the low speeds they run at, even without the transfer box in neutral...

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What i'm saying is why would the box explode....

The diff is open, holding the rear axle still and spinning the front wheels (or vice versa) would simply spin the gearbox over as though you were rolling along, the centre diff would (and is designed to) take up the difference in rotational speed.

Its no different to, for instance, what would happen if you snapped a front CV joint or killed a front diff. In that case the centre diff would transmit all the power to the front axle and you wouldnt move, but the goings on inside the diff itself is exactly the same.

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Hi.

With regard to your centre diff and brake testing if you drive one axle then that will turn something backwards. This will either be the other axle or the gearbox. Driving the other axle will pull the vehicle out of the rollers, possibly causing damage to the surroundings or bystanders. Driving a gearbox in reverse if worn can cause damage. Putting the transfer box in neutral means that this is the only thing turning which should be safer. Bear in mind that as the engine needs to be running to brake test, if it is not in neutral on TXB you are driving the back of the box bacwards and the front forwards. Due to the complexity of so many different vehicles controls the Ministry say do not roller test. Personally I would not fancy roller testing my Disco, if it goes wrong two ton of metal is a lot to stop. I have had enough problems over the years with various two wheel drives.

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from the thread i posted in international it seems that landrover set a maximum speed for using 2 wheel roller brake testers, which is above what most brake testers will spin at, meaning it should be fine.

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Well i repaired my wheel bearing today, i would say its a contributing factor, its much better now, but still a slight pull to the right.

Next stop is to check all the bushes and bearings, i'm not convinced its anything to do with the brakes at all.

Thanks

Matt

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