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anti roll bar question


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My anti roll bar has flipped round at one end after a lot of wheel travel at the weekend and I'm wondering how to safely flip it back?

I thought I'd just be able to use my hi-lift to get it to a point where the link was horizontal and then get a bar in to turn it over. But the jack won't go high enough and the link just seems to get tighter as it goes up? certainly isn't rotating out anyway.

I could get under and undo the nut and then knock the bolt out on the twisted end - but I'm thinking that its under a fair amount of tension at that end and am worried about maybe being struck by it as I get the bolt out?

Last question - I've a date on the lanes again tomorrow so I presume if I can't get it sorted before then will it be ok to use? given that I used it after it folded the last time? (and only spotted it tonight).

Any help gratefully received!

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I just undid the 4 nuts and bolts holding the roll bar to the chassis. I didn't experience any nasty moments with the roll bar un-springing when I did this. Doing this will allow you to sort out the bar and get it refitted correctly.

Why did it flip? Have you lifted the motor? I only had this problem once I lifted mine and it happened every time I articulated the axles. In the end the anti roll bar ended up in the bin and I have more articulation :D

Brookers

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I just undid the 4 nuts and bolts holding the roll bar to the chassis.

I did the same, just undid the chassis side and then removed it altogether.

(Be aware that the flipped joint may have squashed the brake pipe on the axle.)

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Well - what a palaver!

Just been out there with my head torch on as I've my appointment with friend on the lanes tomorrow that I'd like to keep.

It was how close the link was to the brake pipe that made me decide it needed doing quickly.

Jacking it up didn't seem to make any positive difference - so I decided to undo it at the chassis - turn the right side over and re bolt it up...

that was the plan anyway.

3 of the bolts sheered and the last one was already rounded when I got to it. Fortunately the sheered bolt was on the inside which meant I could get a crow bar under it and lever it open to release the bar.

I was in the dark by that time - so in the morning I'll go out and take it off early before I go out.

Hopefully it'll be easy to take off. I presume releasing the ARB from the link bushes is easier that trying to get the ball joints off from the chassis brackets?

I need the quickest simplest way to do in the morning.

The bolts that sheered on the chassis seem to bolt into threaded holes - so I'm presuming I'll have to drill them out and try and get a nut onto the other side?

Thanks for the helps guys.

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There are welded nuts on the inside of the chassis rail - I removed the arb bracket on a Rangy the other day and four of then let go, so Mr A Grinder was used. You could alternatively weld the bracket to the chassis in 4 places in place of the bolts and it'll be fine. With one end cranked over - there will be some tension in the bar, but not as much as you think. The bar will push backwards, not downwards as you release it though. Just use an extension bar and keep your hands and head out of the way.

Les.

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Its off!!

Everything was seized - it took 40 minutes to get off, now time for a quick breakfast and I'll only be late - instead of very late!!

thank you for all the help.

I'll see how it drives without it and report back at the end of the day.

Thank you everyone.

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Well - back home now. After a days driving the lanes and round the lakes and a trip there and back on the motorway - I can say its fine without the ARB on the back.

The front springs are quite soft, 160lbs iirc? and I like the suppleness of them. In fact I fiitted some HD front springs and took them after 30 miles - I hated them.

The back was always a little hard and the roll was mainly on the front end - now the front and back end are more balanced - the roll seems even along the length of the truck - and its fine. grinning-smiley-003.gif

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