Smokydiesel Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Hi, Just a quick question regarding my Defender 90 TD5 (1999) The car (or should I say engine) feels “jerky” in first and second gear. In third, fourth and fifth it feels OK without any problems, but in first and second it reacts very very sensitive to what I do with the accelerator. For instance when I let go of the accelerator (in first or second) and than press it again, the engine will pickup speed without any problems, but it never ever is smooth like in all the other gears. This is especially in slow traffic, very annoying and sort of spoils the otherwise smooth ride in my 90. Over the last 2 years I have replaced the injector harness, accelerator assembly and airflow meter. Any idea’s guys ? Thanks ! Edwin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philip Tonkin Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Any idea’s guys ?Thanks ! Edwin. A remap sorted this problem for me. Now I can just pull away in second or third if I am really lazy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101sean Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 If you do a search there should be other posts on this. I think I recall reading that the unofficial dealer fix was to trick the throttle into thinking the Tbox was in low range! It was a common complaint on early ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oap Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 A remap sorted this problem for me. Now I can just pull away in second or third if I am really lazy! That will cost you a new clutch very soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 I guess it depends how slow your actually talking.... Even our Audi A4 is jerky if you lift off and reapply the throttle in first, although less so in second. Its just a function of the high torque multiplication from low gears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Check the clutch switch is operating, as if it isn't then it effectively disables the anti shunt control which makes it very jerky, the ASC is disabled when the clutch is depressed so that the throttle damping disappears, and if the switch packs up then it is disabled permanently, as it is if you unplug the sensor. Some folks like it like that - it removes the irritating delay on the throttle - others find it too jerky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokydiesel Posted June 11, 2009 Author Share Posted June 11, 2009 Thanks all for your replies ! That was a good tip there Bogmonster; I took the clutch-switch off and bridged the connector, and it is much better. True that there is some throttle delay now, but I can think I can live with that. I'll get a new switch now...together with a new master-cilinder, cause that's dripping a bit also... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilslandy Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Bogmonster..i seem to have same problem, i always thought that it is a defect from factory of early td5s. mine is 2000. but its very irritating to be in traffic and the landy starts jerking...the car behing u thinks u dont know how to drive properly lol please...where is this switch...i think i have same problem as smokeydiesel has. mayb if i replace this switch all works fine jerkless gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokydiesel Posted June 11, 2009 Author Share Posted June 11, 2009 Bogmonster..i seem to have same problem, i always thought that it is a defect from factory of early td5s. mine is 2000. but its very irritating to be in traffic and the landy starts jerking...the car behing u thinks u dont know how to drive properly lolplease...where is this switch...i think i have same problem as smokeydiesel has. mayb if i replace this switch all works fine jerkless gil Hi Gil, Thought I'd give you a reply. The switch is on top of the clutch mastercilinder (near the bulkhead inside the engine bay) Locate the clutch fluid lid, follow down a bit and there you will spot a connector (black in my case) Remove the metal clip that holds the connector to the switch and take the connector off. I put a small metal clip inside the connector (the bit you pull off) just to let the ECU think that the switch is on (or is it off... ) all of the time. Good luck Edwin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilslandy Posted June 13, 2009 Share Posted June 13, 2009 great!!!! thanks alot gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynelagos Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 I've tried the disconnection of the switch but mine is still jerking, even after a new ecu, re map, new cylinder head, wiring harness, map sensor, arghhhh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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