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Steering Wheel Puller

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Hi All,

I need to get the steering wheel off to do some work on the control stalks and electrics but its been on for 20 years and well and truly stuck.

I have read somewhere about people making there own puller out of a piece of bar, drilling and tapping holes and things (did a search of the forum, didnt find anything)

Could someone point me in the right direction, or tell me what size holes i need to drill etc.

FYI its a 1988 90



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I had this problem a while ago.

In the end I try the brute force method and it worked. I slackened off the nut holding the wheel on but DID NOT REMOVE IT, then hit each of the four spoke (I assume you got the same wheel) from the outside, after a few hit I tried wiggleig the wheel off and it soon came off, not problem.

Leaving the nut on means that the wheel doesn't smack you in the face!


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DO NOT and I repeat DO NOT

smack the end of the column to try to remove wheel as

the coluimn is a collapsable one and you'll F it Up :lol:

The way I have found has worked is to undo nut 'a lot', but leave on

and leave cover off and go for an "off road drive" :lol: it does

tend to help it shake loose, but keep an eye on the nut

DISCLAIMER : If your wheel comes off then don't come moaning to me

as I warned you and if you smack your loved 4x4 into a tree / roll it /

injure yourself, then I reserve the right to point and laugh at you without recourse :P



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I used to weigh in busses and coaches for a living, and found that beating your fists down onto the wheel at opposite sides ie 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock would usually get most wheels off. Admittedly there's more leverage on a bigger wheel but it's worked on weeny car wheels too. Wd is guaranteed to help, and i concur that leaving the nut on is a must if you progress onto the 'beat the back with a lump hammer' technique, which can be effective too. I'd still try fists on opposite corners first tho.

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I made my puller from one of those plates that acts as a spacer for towing brackets.

its around 6-8mm thick !. trimmed edge to fit in.

Three holes needed, one on each side 7mm to take the 6mm bolts that screw into the hub/wheel. Centre one was tapped at 12mm and a large bolt put in.

Remove centre nut on steering column

Screw two bolts into wheel secured with nut either side of newly made plate, then tighten up the 12mm bolt onto centre of column.

A few turns and the seal breaks, then wheel comes of with ease.

cost a bit of srap steel and three bolts.

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i just ordered one of those ebay pullers the other day.

I guess i could have made one, but by the time i'd found some suitable stock, drilled and tapped the holes and procured suitable bolts i figured a tenner wasnt a big ask.

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  • 12 years later...

First I slackened-off the nut & tried to wriggle & pull the wheel free to break the seal; didn't work.

Next I made a puller, fitted it & got it tight then hit the back of each wheel spoke with a rubber mallet.  Then I tightened the middle bolt & it felt like the wheel was moving but the 5mm puller bracket was bending😒

Next I chocked the brake pedal with a lump of 4"x4" timber, placed my 1 ton rated scissor jack on the brake pedal & applied pressure to the back of the steering wheel centre via another lump of timber.  I then refitted my straightened puller, applied the full force of the jack & tightened the bolt on the puller.  Result?  No movement at all!

Have now soaked with WD40.  Sometime soon, I will use the jack set-up again & apply heat to the top of the column.  Hopefully that will break the seal & the wheel will be released.  If not, I have a Land Rover specialist a few miles away🤷‍♂️

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