Aragorn Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Ok following on from my other V8 thread, my Water Pump has arrived today from paddocks amongst some other bits. I will be tackling the change at the weekend, however i would like to get a bit of an idea of the procedure and any foibles of note. I've had a look at the pump, and my only/main concern is getting the pulley/fan out of the way. At a guess, i hope it should be possible to undo the three bolts holding the pulley onto the pump, and lift the fan/coupling/pulley assembly out the way as one piece, is there enough room for this without ripping the rad off? It then looks like a simple case of removing the lower rad hose, unbolting the pump and pulling it off the block. Is there anything more i should be aware of when doing it? Do i need silicone or similar when reattaching the pump/gasket, or does it go on dry? I also have purchased a replacement thermostat. I presume the stat sits under the elbow attached to the top rad hose? Its currently covered in some nasty looking red sealant goop, so hopefully my new gasket and new stat will fix that up nicely. Any pointers would be much appreciated. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Is there anything more i should be aware of when doing it? Do i need silicone or similar when reattaching the pump/gasket, or does it go on dry?I also have purchased a replacement thermostat. I presume the stat sits under the elbow attached to the top rad hose? Its Cheers Yup, remove all stuff in the way and any belts that need to come off- I believe you lightly grease the gasket before it goes on. With the thermostat it should have a little hole in it to allow air to bleed through- make sure this is at the top when you fit it. And just be careful with the bolts, i seem to remember that there are a few different lengths, make sure you know what goes where, dont want to strip any threads by winding a bolt into a blind hole its too long for... Check here for general v8 stuff (mostly Rover) - V8 Forum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Ok following on from my other V8 thread, my Water Pump has arrived today from paddocks amongst some other bits.I will be tackling the change at the weekend, however i would like to get a bit of an idea of the procedure and any foibles of note. I've had a look at the pump, and my only/main concern is getting the pulley/fan out of the way. At a guess, i hope it should be possible to undo the three bolts holding the pulley onto the pump, and lift the fan/coupling/pulley assembly out the way as one piece, is there enough room for this without ripping the rad off? It then looks like a simple case of removing the lower rad hose, unbolting the pump and pulling it off the block. Is there anything more i should be aware of when doing it? Do i need silicone or similar when reattaching the pump/gasket, or does it go on dry? I also have purchased a replacement thermostat. I presume the stat sits under the elbow attached to the top rad hose? Its currently covered in some nasty looking red sealant goop, so hopefully my new gasket and new stat will fix that up nicely. Any pointers would be much appreciated. Cheers When you remove the many and varied thread types and length of bolts from the water pump get a bit of strong cardboard box and draw the shape of the pump around the new pump putting a hole in the cardboard with a screwdriver at each hole position. When you remove the bolts and washers and clips put into the corresponding hole in the cardboard. Trust me this will save many hours of head scratching If you have a viscous coupled fan you need to undo the large nut on the viscous unit. This is probably a left hand thread but an engine with one continuous drive belt (serpentine) will probably be a right hand thread. If it refuses to come undone try the other way. Why LR have to keep changing the thread.......................... The fan and viscouse unit will then come off as a single unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 So i need to unbolt the fan first? Its a multi v-pulley engine, not the later poly-v style How exactly do i go about locking the pulley to undo the fans coupling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 So i need to unbolt the fan first?Its a multi v-pulley engine, not the later poly-v style How exactly do i go about locking the pulley to undo the fans coupling? There is a spanner for the job but I always use a sharp ended chisel, ball pein hammer and a sharp tap. If you are sure you have a left hand thread coupling to undo is clockwise rotation looking from front of car through radiator. The nut you are undoing is about 25mm across flats, look into the back of the fan, nut is very difficult to access, it is not a piece of cake first time to get off. If you are under 6ft 6ins use a box to get some height to look into back of fan, suspension lifts are good unless you are vertically challenged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Ok following on from my other V8 thread, my Water Pump has arrived today from paddocks amongst some other bits.I will be tackling the change at the weekend, however i would like to get a bit of an idea of the procedure and any foibles of note. I've had a look at the pump, and my only/main concern is getting the pulley/fan out of the way. At a guess, i hope it should be possible to undo the three bolts holding the pulley onto the pump, and lift the fan/coupling/pulley assembly out the way as one piece, is there enough room for this without ripping the rad off? It then looks like a simple case of removing the lower rad hose, unbolting the pump and pulling it off the block. Is there anything more i should be aware of when doing it? Do i need silicone or similar when reattaching the pump/gasket, or does it go on dry? I also have purchased a replacement thermostat. I presume the stat sits under the elbow attached to the top rad hose? Its currently covered in some nasty looking red sealant goop, so hopefully my new gasket and new stat will fix that up nicely. Any pointers would be much appreciated. Cheers You might find that "covered in some nasty looking red sealant goop" the aluminium housing has sprung a leak due to differential potential corrosion between copper and the aluminium housing, the gloop stopping the leak? Make sure you change the coolant, flush and refill with anti-freeze 50% dilution. If you can use de-mineralised water this will help relieve corrosion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 Hmm, only thing i have that big would be a large adjustable spanner, which i doubt would fit in the gap? Perhaps i should try to get the correct spanner, but i might give the chisel/hammer approach a go? Anyone else had luck using a chisel or some other home fabbed tool to get this off? A quick google suggests there are two sizes, 32 and 36mm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 I've always used a cold chisel on viscous fan nuts. If you don't think it is coming off...just keep tapping it. They always come undone eventually. I've found that the chocolate fan spanners tend to break... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Left hand thread, and yes an adjustable spanner fits on fine. If the water pump you have from Paddocks is a Britpart item, chuck it in the bin and buy a proper one -sorry, but do you want to be doing the job twice.....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 Also to complicate matters, once the pump is off. Check the pump housing for erosion due to cavitation. If bubbles are created behind the pump blades it will eat away the pump housing body until a hole appears through to the timing chest! This depends a lot on how old the engine is? I have had very old engines so this may well be alarmist info. Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 Just to add The V8 water pump is held on with a selection of different size and length bolts, some of which are VERY thin and VERY long - DO NOT attack these, go gentle or they can shear as quick or quicker than you can say Oh **** it Try loosening all of them a little, then use WD40 and the long thin hosey straw thing that comes with the WD40 can and spray loads onto the bolts behind the now losened bolt head to try to get some up the bolt shaft - shoving the LR on ramps so engine nose up amazingly helps - take you time, shearing the bolts off makes it a nightmare job so FFS go easy Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted June 26, 2009 Author Share Posted June 26, 2009 Bowie: Its not a britpart pump, but its not genuine either i dont think. Paddocks had it listed with a G suffix, which usually means OEM rather than pattern, but its just in a plain brown box. While i dont particularly want to do the job twice, i also dont want to drop >£100 on a pump and find the engines humped, so i figured the "G" pump from paddock would be a reasonable compromise. The clutch parts and thermostat ARE britpart however Thanks for the advice on the bolts, I'll maybe just use a small 1/4" drive ratchet rather than beasting in with the 1/2" which will help limit the torque applied to the bolts a little! Just need to hope the weather holds out tomorrow, and it all comes apart nicely. Knowing my luck with this truck so far, i'll snap every bolt in the timing case, the new pump will leak immediately after fitting AND the engine will explode for good measure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted June 27, 2009 Author Share Posted June 27, 2009 Well that didnt go toooo badly! All the bolts came out without any breakages. I didnt realise how much carp was in the way though. Had to remove some weird plate from the PAS pump that looked like a tensioner but with it removed the pump didnt move at all. The fan belt tensioner itself seems a bit odd, perhaps its just broken (i couldnt see how it was actually supposed to adjust) but the bolts on that seemed to be really long and were BAS*ARD tight. Old pump came out and i spent what felt like 4 weeks scraping the remains of the old gasket off with a stanley blade. New pump went back on easily enough and i wirebrushed all the threads which seemed to make them go in easily. I'd forgotton my new Fan and alternator belts, so i didnt refit the viscous just yet. I'll do that tomorrow. Filled it with water with the radiator fill plug removed. Didnt put any antifreeze in just yet as i've still to change the thermostat and i'm not wasting a tenner on coolant until i know its not going to blow up. It took about 10 litres to fill it so that the radiator bung was overflowing. Ran it for about 5 mins, didnt appear to be leaking which was nice. Heater hoses were only very slightly warm after that time, and the rad and rad hoses were cold, but i didnt want to run it any longer until i'd sorted out the clutch master cyl. I'm wondering if the thermostat is broken or even missing as i'd have expected a bit more warmth after 5 minutes but we'll find that out tomorrow. Cheers for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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