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Santiago

Synthetic rope and roller fairled

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Can I use a synthtic winch rope with the roller fairlead that came with my Milemarker winch or is the roller fairlead only intended to be used with wire cable? (the winch came with 3/8 cable but I am changing it for a used synthetic rope which I have at home).

Are only Hawse Fairleads supposed to be used with synthetic ropes?

I think I have seen people using roller fairleads with synthetic whinch ropes but I am not sure whether those are specially mae for ropes or not.

Thanks in advance

Santiago

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The synthetic rope can get jammed between the rollers at the corners (they say) so a hawse ditto is recommended.

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Thanks Lars,

"The synthetic rope can get jammed between the rollers at the corners (they say) so a hawse ditto is recommended "

With respect, is this a myth or something people have experienced?

What do most synthetic rope winch users in Europe do? Hawse or Roller Fairlead with synthetic rope?

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I've never seen anybody using synthetic rope with rollers although someone probably has. Looking at the cost of replacing a dammaged synth rope i think a hause is a good investment.

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Synthetic rope is more flexible and more prone to abrasion than steel wire, so its possible for it to touch and rub against the sharp edges of the pressed steel frame of on roller fairleads and get damaged.

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Thanks Lars,

"The synthetic rope can get jammed between the rollers at the corners (they say) so a hawse ditto is recommended "

With respect, is this a myth or something people have experienced?

What do most synthetic rope winch users in Europe do? Hawse or Roller Fairlead with synthetic rope?

When I first used synthetic I had a roller fairlead with my Milemarker. Used the fairlead for a few months with no problems. However, I took a long-term view and invested in a hawse type made from aluminium. Most problems with roller fairlead is the cheap quality of the plain bearings and the carbon steel rollers, sufficient for wire but no-where near good enough for synthetic. If you are careful then jamming the rope into the corners of the rollers will not be an issue, but if you are in self recover mode how can you make sure the rope feeds straight into the drum? Only needs the vehicle to swing slightly and ping goes the very expensive rope and if your dangling at a steep angle the car as well. There is a video in the video shack section showing a Jeep with a broken rope and the aftermath...................

Get a hawse! :lol:

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Just out of interest, how much rope can you fit on the milemarker, an what size? 11mm / 12mm.

I know some of the milemarkers have a slightly bigger diameter drum.

Cheers Gordon

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My experience is pretty much identical to NAS90 - I started with rollers and found that it was fine for straight ahead but if pulling on any kind of angle it became an "oo err umm" situation and you also had to be careful even when hooking the rope back to the towing eye after you had finished as it could fall down and hook over the sharp edge as it tightened.

My rollers were a bit chewed up from the wire as well so I bought a Goodwinch alli hawse fairlead. If you get one bear in mind that for a Milemarker it needs offset mounting holes and a lot of the ones on the market don't - Goodwinch do 3 types to suit different winches.

I have 100ft of 10mm Dyneema on mine which fits fine but there isn't much room for more than that.

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Just out of interest, how much rope can you fit on the milemarker, an what size? 11mm / 12mm.

I know some of the milemarkers have a slightly bigger diameter drum.

Cheers Gordon

Gordon,

I have only introduced the rope by hand, so it is not tight. Nevertheless, about 30mts of rope went in and the drum looks full. Not really sure the drum is bigger than others, at least not much bigger or it does not look bigger. No comparison with the W8274 in this respect.

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My experience is pretty much identical to NAS90 - I started with rollers and found that it was fine for straight ahead but if pulling on any kind of angle it became an "oo err umm" situation and you also had to be careful even when hooking the rope back to the towing eye after you had finished as it could fall down and hook over the sharp edge as it tightened.

My rollers were a bit chewed up from the wire as well so I bought a Goodwinch alli hawse fairlead. If you get one bear in mind that for a Milemarker it needs offset mounting holes and a lot of the ones on the market don't - Goodwinch do 3 types to suit different winches.

I have 100ft of 10mm Dyneema on mine which fits fine but there isn't much room for more than that.

Bogmonster,

Could you please explain this:" ...bear in mind that for a Milemarker it needs offset mounting holes .." What is "offset mounting holes", a wider fairlead or just displaced to the side?

I actually have an aluminium fairlead (thing is it is easier for me to just bolt in the roller fairlead that came with the winch instead of modifying my bumper to receive the aluminium hawse fairlead) which is +/- 17.5 cms wide (approximately 7 inches wide). Now, this is narrower than my Milemarkers drum, which is about 22 cms wide. I have been checking the web (not Goodwinch though) and it seems most alum haws fairleads are the same width as mine, is this OK? Is the hawse fairlead supposed to be narrower than the drum?

I was tempted about using the roller fairlead because the opening is wider than the hawse fairead.

I will try to post some pics later.

Also is there any problem in having the hawse fairlead slightly to one side and not in the middle of the vehicle? (looking at the truck from the front). The thing is the drum of my Milemarker will be slightly dispalced to one side, (about one inch).

Thanks for your help.

Santiago

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What I mean is one that looks like the top fairlead in this picture, with the holes offset below the rope slot , rather than the more normal type with the holes at the end of the slot like the bottom one in the picture.

No real problem with having the winch/fairlead offset to one side - it just looks a bit odd.

post-33-1249468857_thumb.jpg

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Hi All,

OK, a couple of questions on this thread, so I will try my best to answer them.

Roller or Hawse?

Hawse - lighter, maintenance free, kinder to the synthetic line because if you use the ali one it will wear and not the line!

Don't worry about the hawse being narrower than the drum - synthetic will naturally feed the corners/sides.

Capacity of a Milemarker.

100ft x 9.5mm Plasma.

90ft x 11mm Plasma.

80ft x 12mm Plasma.

Please remember the law of diminishing returns - thicker line = less on drum, so 12mm will give you a working lenght of about 65ft, allowing for the tension wraps left on the drum.

Hope this helps,

Regards,

Andy Thomlinson

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Bogmonster,

OK, I now understand what a Hawse fairlead with offset mounting holes is but why does a Milemarker necessarily need one?

I have decided for the alum hawse fairlead!

Thans to all!

Cheers,

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What I mean is one that looks like the top fairlead in this picture, with the holes offset below the rope slot , rather than the more normal type with the holes at the end of the slot like the bottom one in the picture.

No real problem with having the winch/fairlead offset to one side - it just looks a bit odd.

A problem I found with my Milemarker was the length of the gap for the rope.

With a 60kpsi waterjet sitting in the factory t'was the simplest of simple things to make my own specification. :lol:

If you have a Milemarker and need some dimensions PM me and I can email a .dxf or .pdf.

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Hi,

My standard ali hawse fairleads fit the milemarker a treat - no need for the offset ones.

AT.

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Hi,

My standard ali hawse fairleads fit the milemarker a treat - no need for the offset ones.

AT.

The main problem I had was that I used my winch bumper designed for a Warn which is galvanised and powder coated so I really did not want to hack the bumper to fit the Milemarker.

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Bogmonster,

OK, I now understand what a Hawse fairlead with offset mounting holes is but why does a Milemarker necessarily need one?

I have decided for the alum hawse fairlead!

Thans to all!

Cheers,

Because with a standard one it would sit a bit too low which means on a straight ahead pull with most of the rope off the drum, the rope would be pulling quite hard against the top edge of the fairlead. It would work, but it wouldn't be as good, hence the others being available. Some winches have higher bolt holes for the fairlead mount, or a different arrangement, and are more suited to the standard type of fairlead.

The offset fairlead is just a way of reducing the friction between rope and fairlead.

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