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Broken switch headlamp


isbjorn

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Hi.

Well When I was driving today I noticed that the headlight/parklights/dimlight/instrument lights didnt work. If I move the headlight switch one step everything is as normal. But if I move it two steps (to start headlights) the dashboard and headlights + parkinglights goes dark.

Ive checked the fuses and they where all fine and started checking the voltage from the actual switch.

It has three cables that according to Rave is:

Brown/blur - from main fuse/battery

Blue - parkinglights

Red - Mainlights (two steps)

No step

Brown/blur - 12v

Blue - 0v

Red - 0v

One step

Brown/blur - 12v

Blue - 0v

Red - 12v

two steps (headlights should be on)

Brown/blur - 12v

Blue - 12v

Red - 0v

To make a long story short, my switch is broken (i assume). Or is there a relay or some hidden things i dont know about? It should be possible to test by hotwire the red cable straight from the battery or?

I only wanted to get you opinion before I order a new one...

thanks.

post-11398-125345516362_thumb.jpg

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Well its solved now.

You where right, the top right pole had melted 1 mm into the plastic witch makes it impossible for the main power to go through the pin that connects with the two outgoing cable poles. Three hard blows with a hammer and a screwdriver and its works like a dream.

post-11398-125346326908_thumb.jpg

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Does a relay control the amount of volt that passes though it? I thought that that usually secured by a a fuse. And that relays are used to open connections to other circuits depending on the controller/switch.

Not the amount of volts, no. It does, however, control the amount of amps through the switch. (I think that's probably what you meant?).

With a relay in the circuit, the switch will only see the amps required to close the relay, which is quite small in comparison to the amps which will run through a pair of illuminated headlights. I don't know the actual amounts but I'm sure an adult will be along shortly to advise. :blink:

HTH.

Mark.

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With a relay in the circuit, the switch will only see the amps required to close the relay, which is quite small in comparison to the amps which will run through a pair of illuminated headlights. I don't know the actual amounts but I'm sure an adult will be along shortly to advise. :blink:

A Standard auto relay will switch 30-40A on its output, whilst requiring less than 1A (typically something of the order of 100 mA) to energise it. Voltage, as already mentioned, remains unchanged.

You need to ensure that the supply to the fuse is suitably sized, and fused, for the load you are going to place on it.

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Even £60 seems ludicrously expensive when you can buy a normal switch for about £3 from Vehicle Wiring Products or the nearest decent car parts supplier / electronics supplier. I don't think all the switches on my dash cost that much put together :ph34r:

Here's a couple designed for the job, they should be available locally too:

Part #64500 - does the right thing and costs £8

Part #65604 - same again but rotary.

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