jimmy_neutron Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 Took my 200tdi 90 for its mot.... It passed on absolutely everything except for the chassis I've ordered a new galvanised chassis from marslands. I got a 200tdi front with a td5 rear so that i get the proper mounts for my rear tank. Anything i need to know or any advice about doing the job ??????????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 The only advice i can give from stripping mine down, is that many components that "looked ok" turn out to be completely stuffed when you remove them. I guess it depends how much of a job you want to do on it, if you just bolt the knackered bits back on or replace them. Mine needed a new seatbox, new bulkhead and it needs a new tub too. Ok i might have been able to salvage the old bits, but i decided i'd rather do it properly once, that have to strip it down again later as more stuff as rotted thru. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithjh Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 Took my 200tdi 90 for its mot.... It passed on absolutely everything except for the chassis I've ordered a new galvanised chassis from marslands. I got a 200tdi front with a td5 rear so that i get the proper mounts for my rear tank. Anything i need to know or any advice about doing the job ??????????? Having done this twice in the past, the only advice i have is replace all nuts bolts with new applying copper slip etc. You will find more goosed bits than you thought replace those as well more expense but easier in the end. I also fitted new wiring harness with upgraded cables, seperate fuses for everything and i mean everything, and better connections especially earths, also ran extra "spare" wiring for future add-ons. The wiring harness i made myself not a difficult job just take your time. I ran my wiring on the side of the chassiss rails installed in armoured flexible conduit, easier to get at and no damage while off roading. Enjoy your rebuild take your time and dont stint on the parts you need. My 1963 series was re chassied in 1999 with all the above and has never suffered any electrical problems to this day. My 300 tdi auto 110 has also gone the same route. Regards Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 Fairly straightforward but not a quick job unless you have plenty of spanner wielding mates. You will need to replace lots of nuts and bolts of course, but I found the really time consuming bit was things like brake pipe connections, exhaust hangers, bump stops, suspension etc. Next time I would strip down over a weekend noting every part that needed replacing, get the new bits during the week and reassemble the next weekend taking the Monday and Tuesday off work too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean f Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 Done 3 now. My advice is pretty much what has already been said. There are lots of bits like bump stops, engine mounts etc you could re use but now is a good time to change them and it saves a lot of hassle to just fit new ones. Don't bother trying to save any brake lines, change the lot much simple and once a pipe has been flexed and pulled off the flexed again to refit it its not worth the hassle. You will have problems with some electrical connectors braking as you disconnect them, either fix them or replace the loom as you go. Labeling them all as you disconnect them also makes life much easier later. I have also always replaced the suspension bushes and cleaned / repainted the axles as I went as this is the best time to do it, does make the job longer though. Unless your clutch is very new its worth haveing a look and probable replacing this as well, much easier when the engine is sat on the deck than after you have put it all back together. When you strip the old vehicle down the amount of space the various bits take up is pretty impressive, expect to have no garden for a while. On a legal note, you do not need to inform any one since this is a NEW for old replacement, keep the receipt for the new chassis and take some pictures of the old chassis in bits just in case any questions are asked later so you can PROVE it was destoyed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty_wingnut Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 3 days to swap chassis and the majority of the rear suspension here, working from 7:30 till 8 most days without stops (easy when you've got an understanding girlfriend like mine, Although she told me if I didn't turn up for a family do 4 days after I started I'd be in the sh$t ) My opinion is it's better to lift the body as one lump and wheel the chassis out from underneath. take a look in my thread in member's motors for body lifting ideas. to do this you need to disconnect, wiring, fuel lines and remove front panel. after that it's the academic swap between chassis, worth replacing the A frame ball joint, and it helps to have a big club hammer for that! I did use a fair bit of copper slip, and kept engine/gearbox and transfer all as one lump (so you need a big crane) I didn't bother re feeding my wiring loom in the chassis, I used conduit from a discovery and cable tied it along the rail Trick is to be thorough and work on one piece at a time, concentrate on moving an axle in one hit, don't start jobs and leave it. That way you don't lose bolts of struggle to remember how something went. Be prepared for a 'mare with the fuel tank piping, new jubilee clips will be required Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 Hi Having done 2 now I would echo the above, I would also add that its easier to run brake lines, wiring, fuel lines etc on the new chassis BEFORE you fit it, also if you need the vehicle working quickly then stay focused on the chassis swap and DON'T get distracted doing unnecessary work while its easy to get access etc, unless you have time to spare then obviously it makes sense. Are you taking the body off insections or 1 piece, I have always used the lift in 1 piece option... On a final note you MUST inform the DVLA of the chassis swap, they will want proof of purchase (receipt from marslands) and ideally proof of destruction of the old one, they may send you a new logbook or ask to inspect but its nothing to worry about, you don't need an IVA or anything just a quick check to make sure everythings kosher, then its all done nice and legally and theres no chance of future repercussions. I have just booked my VIC after my swap a few weeks ago and confirmed with the vehicle inspector that DVLA must be informed. Mike edit just found it here linky on the list of compulsory notifications "replacing or modifying the chassis/monocoque bodyshell" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy_neutron Posted September 25, 2009 Author Share Posted September 25, 2009 The only advice i can give from stripping mine down, is that many components that "looked ok" turn out to be completely stuffed when you remove them. I guess it depends how much of a job you want to do on it, if you just bolt the knackered bits back on or replace them. Mine needed a new seatbox, new bulkhead and it needs a new tub too. Ok i might have been able to salvage the old bits, but i decided i'd rather do it properly once, that have to strip it down again later as more stuff as rotted thru. I had it on the ramps and everything else looked ok ... was it only when you started knocking things around that you noticed the other problems or could you kind of see it all anyway ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy_neutron Posted September 25, 2009 Author Share Posted September 25, 2009 Having done this twice in the past, the only advice i have is replace all nuts bolts with new applying copper slip etc. You will find more goosed bits than you thought replace those as well more expense but easier in the end. I also fitted new wiring harness with upgraded cables, seperate fuses for everything and i mean everything, and better connections especially earths, also ran extra "spare" wiring for future add-ons. The wiring harness i made myself not a difficult job just take your time. I ran my wiring on the side of the chassiss rails installed in armoured flexible conduit, easier to get at and no damage while off roading. Enjoy your rebuild take your time and dont stint on the parts you need. My 1963 series was re chassied in 1999 with all the above and has never suffered any electrical problems to this day. My 300 tdi auto 110 has also gone the same route. Regards Keith My van has never caused me any electrical problems .. but i suppose it's now over 18years old. How long do the electrics realistically last as i don't want work that i don't need but want it to last as well ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy_neutron Posted September 25, 2009 Author Share Posted September 25, 2009 Hi Having done 2 now I would echo the above, I would also add that its easier to run brake lines, wiring, fuel lines etc on the new chassis BEFORE you fit it, also if you need the vehicle working quickly then stay focused on the chassis swap and DON'T get distracted doing unnecessary work while its easy to get access etc, unless you have time to spare then obviously it makes sense. Are you taking the body off insections or 1 piece, I have always used the lift in 1 piece option... On a final note you MUST inform the DVLA of the chassis swap, they will want proof of purchase (receipt from marslands) and ideally proof of destruction of the old one, they may send you a new logbook or ask to inspect but its nothing to worry about, you don't need an IVA or anything just a quick check to make sure everythings kosher, then its all done nice and legally and theres no chance of future repercussions. I have just booked my VIC after my swap a few weeks ago and confirmed with the vehicle inspector that DVLA must be informed. Mike edit just found it here linky on the list of compulsory notifications "replacing or modifying the chassis/monocoque bodyshell" Many thanx all .. very helpful Is there anywhere that does a bolt kit for this kind of thing ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 probably but it will be overpriced, just get a stock of shortish (30-40mm) M8, long (100-110mm) M8 and M10 for things that bolt to the chassis, suspension bolts and bulkhead bolts are easiest ordered from a landy parts place as they are weird sizes, that should be all you need for swapping the chassis, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean f Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 On a final note you MUST inform the DVLA of the chassis swap, they will want proof of purchase (receipt from marslands) and ideally proof of destruction of the old one, they may send you a new logbook or ask to inspect but its nothing to worry about, you don't need an IVA or anything just a quick check to make sure everythings kosher, then its all done nice and legally and theres no chance of future repercussions. I have just booked my VIC after my swap a few weeks ago and confirmed with the vehicle inspector that DVLA must be informed. Mike edit just found it here linky on the list of compulsory notifications "replacing or modifying the chassis/monocoque bodyshell" Looks like I am now out of date, the last one I did several years ago I rang up to check and was told that so long as it was a NEW chassis they didn't need any notififcation. Guess things have changed or its the ususal case of the DVLA not applying the same rules all the time and each office / person having there own interpretation. As Mike said inform them, if they say they don't need to know keep the letter then you are covered, if they do want to inspect again it should be fine, maybe worth checking the engine number first though in case it has been changed in the past and the new number is not on the V5, best to find out before they do. As for bolts I generally order them in bulk from Screwfix, there I plenty of other suppliers out there but I have found Screwfix to be OK quality and fast delivery for a good price (I expect others will have there own opinions!). To add to Mikes list I would order some M6 as well and don't forget washers, nuts and nylocs. Bolts are comparatively cheap and it is always usefull to have more around. The body off in one go technique is quickest if you have the ability to lift it, a friend with a handy crane or big fork lift would be very usefull. I have always done it by striping down to individual panels as I have been working in my drive way in my spare time and don't have access to a suitable lift or the room round the vehicle. Which way you go depends on the equipment you have available, the time the vehicle can be off the road and the amount of money you want to spend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted September 25, 2009 Share Posted September 25, 2009 Find a local fixings/fastners supplier and get them in bulk from them. That way you're not limited on sizes of orders, and they tend to be cheap. My local one I can go and buy one M6 x 25mm bolt for 11p if I like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy_neutron Posted September 26, 2009 Author Share Posted September 26, 2009 I was thinking of taking the body off whole by using 2 scaffy poles and resting them on breeze blocks. Jack a corner pole up and slide another block in kind of thing. Think it'll work or think it'll end up collapsing on top of me ? roughly how heavy is the body ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted September 26, 2009 Share Posted September 26, 2009 Heavy enough to hurt! I wouldn't go underneath that kind of arrangement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 for the latest one I used an engine crane sticking through the back door attached to 2 tie down points in the rear, and petes winch over a beam to a strop hooked into the bulkhead bottoms with a spreader bar on the top to stop it squashing the bulkhead, clear as mud? the first time I did it I used an overhead beam and a chain block and lifted it using the roof rack! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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