Going up from Series to R380 probably

[RobotMan]

Any update on this? Iv got a Disco 200tdi in my lightweight and contemplating a shorty r380(this should put the gearlever closer to original position I think?) then mod Disco axles to fit on the Parabolics, or just disco diffs and zeus discs(but ££££)

So this is all very interesting to me

I'm pottering on very slowly with this. Engine and gearbox mounts all made engine and box back out for all the fettling such as flywheel housing seal replacement and adding extra studs and counterboring to get full set of mountings between box and engine. Fitting a Disco LT230 for better cruising speeds. I considered using an early RR 1.002(or whatever it is) and keeping Series 4.7 diffs (pegged lockers so not worried about breaking them) to get a really low low but thought Disco TX box and 3.54 diffs are far easier to source if needed down the line.

I am going to be doing some fettling with the rear suspension more info when I get my head around how to make it behave properly.

I'm just awaiting delivery of my new front shafts to go into the Stage One front axle, Rakeway are not quick!

Position wise you can see that I have the gearbox mounts for the LT77/LT230 lining up with the Series gearbox crossmember. I haven't cut the chassis at all. The engine is a fair way forwards! far enough back from the front crossmember to slide clear of the gearbox and the bellhousing bolts can be reached either from underneath or from within the engine bay. It does sit higher to clear the front axle, not as high as in a defender though. This allows the front prop to clear the 2nd crossmember without spacers or notching. The rear prop is still 20 1/2" at ride height, I've seen shorter!

the Zues kit is a lot of money!

[FridgeFreezer]

Rob - I can recommend the 1.003:1 transfer box idea, it's what I run on my truck (the portals are 5.99:1 ratio so I need the gearing!) and it does make for a nice low range without feeling the need for an underdrive. Realistically, how often do you get all the way into 5th in low box?

[Gareth Dickens]

I would suggest you swap to the disco axles as soon as possible. Should make life a lot easier. You seem like the resourceful type, so how would you go about fitting lockers to an ENV axle. (None are made for them) Sorry to hijack your thread but I am desperate for some info.

[RobotMan]

I would suggest you swap to the disco axles as soon as possible. Should make life a lot easier. You seem like the resourceful type, so how would you go about fitting lockers to an ENV axle. (None are made for them) Sorry to hijack your thread but I am desperate for some info.

I now have no intention of going with Disco axles as I have all the parts to run Series axles with enough strength and correct steering now to keep me happy (I hope). If I didn't have the bits to hand I would go coiler axles.

The middle of the Volvo C303 axles are if I remember correctly the same as an ENV. I would expect that getting spares from them wouldn't be cheap but it might be a source of ideas. Or, dare I say "I would suggest you swap to the disco axles as soon as possible. Should make life a lot easier."

I'll have a think and I wouldn't be surprised if a Flying Spanners chap chips in too!

[Gareth Dickens]

I now have no intention of going with Disco axles as I have all the parts to run Series axles with enough strength and correct steering now to keep me happy (I hope). If I didn't have the bits to hand I would go coiler axles.

The middle of the Volvo C303 axles are if I remember correctly the same as an ENV. I would expect that getting spares from them wouldn't be cheap but it might be a source of ideas. Or, dare I say "I would suggest you swap to the disco axles as soon as possible. Should make life a lot easier."

I'll have a think and I wouldn't be surprised if a Flying Spanners chap chips in too!

I've got a Toyota Surf Gearbox (R150f) so 3.54 ratios a bit long. 4.7 a bit short. 4.1 would be perfect, but what can you do? Fridge has replied saying I should look into GM 14 bolt lockers. Looks good on the net but without being able to compare directly a very big gamble. I shall google Volvo c303 axles. Paying the cash to me at the moment is preferable to wasting a lot of time on something that will not work. What lockers are available for c303 axles?

[FridgeFreezer]

Fridge has replied saying I should look into GM 14 bolt lockers.

No I haven't

What lockers are available for c303 axles?

They all come with them, as standard, so that's kind of it really.

[Gareth Dickens]

No I haven't

They all come with them, as standard, so that's kind of it really.

Sorry, putting words in your mouth.

Someone mentioned GM 14 bolt lockers can be made to fit, but any additional info is unobtainable.

[RobotMan]

Sorry, putting words in your mouth.

Someone mentioned GM 14 bolt lockers can be made to fit, but any additional info is unobtainable.

It maybe that short of some serious fettling to get something else in there you should either consider selling the strong ENV axles to fund something with lockers as standard or aftermarket. I would think there would be plenty of @cruisers etc out your way.

Alternatively you might consider fiddle brakes. I'm not sure if that would be road legal in SA but easier to find out than scratch build a locker for an ENV

[FridgeFreezer]

Given the rarity of ENV axles in general, I can't help but think you're best off just going for something locally available like Toyota, Nissan, etc.

Putting parts from one rare axle into another rare axle only makes for even more hassle as and when something breaks.

[RobotMan]

That's Neale at Rakeway re-re-reminded about sending the halfshafts once more

[FridgeFreezer]

That's Neale at Rakeway re-re-reminded about sending the halfshafts once more

Good luck, I've heard 6 months is a good lead time from them

[moore101]

back to the topic of gearboxes. when fitting lt77 into series using adaptor plate (v8 style) what clutch can be used? ive just got the clutch off the rangie diesel i have and its no bigger than a series clutch. can i use series cover plate (for which i already have a drilled v8 flywheel) with the diesel clutch plate to get the splines?

and because im puttin an lt77 behind a v8 i either cut off the end of the crank or end up with a wafer thin spigot bush (think i will end up going the route of the latter which is not ideal )

[RobotMan]

Good luck, I've heard 6 months is a good lead time from them

I ordered them in Feb but said I may as well pick them up in person from you at Donnington Stoke. That of course didn't happen as I forgot to remind him. It would be worse if he wasn't such a damn nice chap!

[RobotMan]

Shafts arrived today!

I went to fit my 300Tdi Disco 1.2:1 transfer box and much to my dismay it had eaten the input gear almost to nothing. Options where fit the perfect 1.4 with 26 tooth cross drilled input geared suffix C defender box, get new input gear and bearings for the Disco box, find a hens teeth 1.003 box or just find another Disco box.

So when I found another Disco box it came with a set of almost new Parabolics (not Sh!tpart), +2" ProComps and a Rattly diff. Not sure what I'll use of that but you never know. I have the Rough Country +3 fronts and +5 rears to go on, a little fettling required there I feel.

Still I can't have many more things to get before I run out of things I can blame not having yet for not building the damn thing!

[RobotMan]

I'm looking at building an anti wrap bar for the rear to control axle rotation on the parabolics to protect the ujs on the back prop as it will be shorter and steeper than stock and it may well have a little more travel than stock when I'm finished too.

I intend to run from a drop shackle mounted in line with the front bush of the spring suspended from a bracket fixed to the inside of the chassis rail/spring hanger. This is a very solid area and already has plenty of pick up points to bolt onto including the LHD handbrake bracket. I'm sure I can fab something up. I'm considering using a coiler front radius arm over the axle with the connection to the aforementioned shackle free to rotate about the pin. The problem is that it is 8" too long. Now do I somehow shorten it or fabricate from scratch. It will experience a lot more of a bending moment than tensile or compressive force I would expect. Is it going to be more work than scratch building, as it does have both ends to suit my needs. Suggestions please.

Oh and I have a new transfer box. I got a good disco 28E box and put the 26 tooth cross drilled gear into it.

[Duncan]

If the axle rotates under load doesn't the axle twist up so making the prop UJ's run a shallower angle? although when bouncing around I see your point!

Do your stage 1 axles run the same sort of angle as normal series ones? as disco axles twist up more so must help with props, I guess?

[Gremlin]

Nice shafts, i might follow you in the near future, just to go arb 24 spline in front. What was the damage money wise for the shafts?? PM if you want.

G

[Soren Frimodt]

I like your idea about using a front radius arm. But if the length doesn't fit I would say building from scratch would be easier. The setup that FF is running seems pretty straightforward. But on your rear axle you will not necessarily need a shackle because you will not, as FF be mounting it at the end of the spring where the shackle is. If you get what I'm saying. Actually I think you could mount an A-frame off of a coiler, but then again it is unnecessary weight and would require even more fab'ing.

[RobotMan]

I'll reply properley tomorrow. Doing 12 hour shifts, series landy to support you know!

[MECCANO]

I've been thinking bout using radius arms for anti wrap for a while. I planned on using disco 2 rear radius's

radius arm

[RobotMan]

Hmmm, I forgot about D2 arms. Mainly as I have a stack of D1 arms already to experiment with. I may just cut the end off and mount a tube and bush from a rear trailing arm to allow it to follow the axle roll rather than the less durable rotating pin which would wear although wouldn't bind. I will need a shackle even if only small as the fixed spring end still extends due to the spring flattening/bending and to try to lock that would cause huge stresses. A frame wouldn't work with a leaf spring as with them you need to match the line of the spring as closely as possible.

The shafts where super expensive and therefore anyone reading this would be better off buying my take out original stuff, honest! They where £145 + vat each and they don't fit. I'll explain more later but it's down to the seal into the swivel. I have a plan!

Yes the axle kicks up under acceleration so would, as you correctly state, help the uj situation. I just wanted to avoid the rapid wear through S'ing the springs and wanted to see if it behaved better. If you watch vids on youtube of axle wrap you can see the extent of the twist admittedly not seen any on a Series but would expect similar behaviour. Got to be worth a try as I am running relatively big knobbly tyres and an ARB. I may also do the front as per fridge's, but one job at a time.

[Soren Frimodt]

Oh Rob, I think we misunderstand each other a little here. Not having a shackle is of course only doable if you mount it in the center of the axle. I cannot see why this wouldn't work as it would just be like the link arms in say a four link. I understand that the springs can flex and therefore differ in length, but I had this setup on my 88" and it didn't bind! I know this as a fact because I tested every aspect of axle movement. I strapped down the front so that both springs where flat. No binding. I then articulated both ways, still no binding.

[Duncan]

Any progress? either ideas or chopping steel

Could this idea possibly work if the R380 or LT77 gearbox stayed in the same position as standard series box? Maybe with the series transfer case on the back.

Or would the rear prop be crazy short?

[RobotMan]

Any progress? either ideas or chopping steel

Could this idea possibly work if the R380 or LT77 gearbox stayed in the same position as standard series box? Maybe with the series transfer case on the back.

Or would the rear prop be crazy short?

Zero progress unless you count removing the rollcage mounts with a tap from a hammer! Many other projects and working long hours aren't helping the cause.

I may well leave the anti-wrap off the list, how will I know if it works if I don't try it without first...?

By the same place as the Series box do you mean as in not move the engine? If so you end up with a very short rear prop on an 88", depending on use this may well be acceptable.

Ashcroft do a LT77/R380 to Series transfercase conversion. It still ends up roughly the same length though. You do have a better positioned front output this way though, selectable 2/4wd and gears suited to 4.7 diffs.

[RobotMan]

After giving up on a 1.003:1 LT 230 and fitting 1.222 disco unit and cross drilled gear with the prospect of changing diff ratios I have now sourced one from a nice chap in the Midlands

I made a front prop from a cast off 300 Tdi Disco doughnut type prop and my old front prop

Ps, has anyone got a set of freewheeling hubs to suit a coiler axle. As in, the ones that come with the LT230 2wd conversion from Ashcroft's?