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84reg 90 with transplanted Disco 200Tdi

Ok the lesson I have learnt today is:- take the negative off the battery before playing with spanners under the bonnet.

I've just managed to short out the main +ve feed on the starter motor to a near by copper brake line, now I've got no power in the vehicle at all...

Fusebox is a bit of a mess, due to previous owner "intervaention" any pointers at to which fuses in what part of the circuit to look for?

I've got the HAYNES book open looking at the wiring diagram for engine models up to 1986, i'm guessing its using the old loom and wireing.

Worying thing is I've found a few too many 13 and 15 amp household fuses than I would like to expect.

I'm feeling the start of a steep learning curve coming on...

cheers

mav

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yeah I know ......but its a landrover so who knows what has been modded/ changed?

I've been there too :ph34r:

1. Keep Calm.

2. Carry on - and get yer multimeter (or sidelight bulb and holder on longish wires) out and verify that it reads / indicates when you put it across a known good battery.

3. Start at the battery and test accross it. (My guess is you'll have juice here).

4. Test the end of the big red wire at the starter solenoid, with the other test lead on a clean bit of engine. You probably have no juice. If this is true, you've possibly burnt the transmission / engine to chassis earth strap or the battery lead out.

5. The battery negative should still be connected to the gearbox (accessible / visible from underneath) You can test this item with a resistance setting, from battery negative to the top of the transfer box, under the middle seat.

6. IMHO, bodgers rarely add safety features (like pricey 300A fuses) to wiring, but if you trace the big red wire betwixt battery and solenoid (it normally runs in a bit of ribbed plastic ducting) you might prove me wrong...

7. You can get to both ends of every wire, so go round and tick of every connection in the starter circuit as you test them with the meter. Calm and methodical, and consider irate violence :angry2: only when all else fails :(

Good luck!

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Hey up chaps,

Right after many hours, managed to get it going late last night.

It appears that ignition circuit has now 2 fuse's in series, one was tucked away behind the dash panel, the other was in the fuse box on the bulkhead...

ok now got a new problem.

The battery is fine, but I put the ignition on, turn the key to kick the starter motor over and I just get a click. Headlights dim when I do this so the circuit is drawing current.

Sometimes if you wait a bit, then try again, it then starts up no problem. - turn it off, try it again, you just get a click.

The Haynes says its most likely a problem with the starter motor itself... any idea's?

Mav

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^^^ wot Luke said too - try a known good battery (its the easiest thing to swap).

It appears that ignition circuit has now 2 fuse's in series, one was tucked away behind the dash panel, the other was in the fuse box on the bulkhead...

That's two more than normal - be afraid :o

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you get a relay tick, or the solenoid ticks?

if the starter and spanners were the cause of the short. then perhaps you got some localised heating and either damaged the windings or solenoid coil, or the insulation may have distorted and is sticking a bit.

worth taking the solenoid off and cleaning it out/testing it off the vehicle. you can do the same with the starter and jump leads.

before that though, check the signal wire to the solenoid is making a good connection as this may cause the problem. as will the earth lead being loose on the starter too.

******infact, just a thought, but when you got the sparks, did you forget to tighten up the positive connection tightly on the starter post!!!******

richard

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