bleyseng Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 Hi. Just bought a 1995 2.5 tdi high cap 110. I Drove it home last night. Temp gauge doesnt work. It doesnt move from the cold position. Obviously its very important to have this operational. where do i start? Secondly. I need to buy at least one manual. But which one is the best one? There are so many. I dont really like Haynes manuals as a rule. They seem to tell lies. Usefull help would be much appreciated. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 for a manual go to our Tech Archive & click the Index, in the Manuals section you'll find links to various places where you can download to your PC. as for the temp gauge. First, disconnect the sender & with ign on & somebody watching the temp gauge, earth the sender wire to the engine the gauge should rise to full right deflection, if it does then the gauge & wiring is OK. second try another sender unit & then test drive to get engine fuly warmed up, if the gauge is staying on the cold side, try a new thermostat, you'll need a 88 degree version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSIIA Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 Does the engine get warm and the heater work? If not, then the problem may lie elsewhere. The first test suggested by Western is quick and simple. However, I found a bit of an oddity with the temperature gauge on my 1994 (95MY) 300Tdi 110. The needle has a habit of sticking at the bottom of the scale on cold days. It has done so since I bought the vehicle in 1997. The solution (for mine) is to tap the front of the gauge and then the needle responds normally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleyseng Posted January 15, 2010 Author Share Posted January 15, 2010 Western, understood , ill try it tomorrow, thanks. Old hand, the heater worked on the 3 hr drive home after purchase but it only just kept the cab marginally warm. Also, the best heat came on the passenger side windscreen, the drivers side was nearly nothing. Also better air flow when the fan speed lever was pushed half way down from the top. Is there a heater improvement manual on this forum? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 Check/reset the heater control cables using this http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=33481&st=0&gopid=323899entry323899 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 The majority of the movement of the heater speed lever controls the main air flow flap, fully up is closed so no air flow at all. Push it down until resistance is felt and this should be fully open and 'normal' air flow, ram-assisted by the vehicle's forward motion. The two next positions down (which you should feel quite positively 'click' into place) are low speed and high speed blower fan assisted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted January 15, 2010 Share Posted January 15, 2010 I would change the thermostat as well, after as little as a year they are not 100% right and if it is the original it will be well past its sell by date. Easy job, only costs a fiver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleyseng Posted January 16, 2010 Author Share Posted January 16, 2010 Western, understood , ill try it tomorrow, thanks. Old hand, the heater worked on the 3 hr drive home after purchase but it only just kept the cab marginally warm. Also, the best heat came on the passenger side windscreen, the drivers side was nearly nothing. Also better air flow when the fan speed lever was pushed half way down from the top. Is there a heater improvement manual on this forum? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 dumb ass question...sorry does the thermostat just control the flow of coolant around the system? Symptom:- temp gauge sitting in cool all the time (although it does move a bit). Considering i have no engine cooling fan this is strange. Heater blower not getting hot. Only luke warm air. Engine not even hot to the touch after a long drive. Diagnosis:- So i reccon the thermostat is stuck full open. Would that be sensible? Fix:- Replace the Thermostat. Check the sender by earthing the wire, which is i presume in the elbow near the thermostat on a 300tdi 1995? Is this my first real fault that i've fixed on my own. Please say yes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 sounds like a stuck open stat, try a new one, the sender has a blue/green tracer wire in the stat housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 I checked the wiring and earthed the wire as instructed and the gague goes all the way up so the wiring is fine. The connector is a bit knackered so i need to chage it along with the sensor and fit a new thermostat at the same time. What should the normal operating temp of a defender 300Tdi be? Whats the part number for the connector? Can't find it anywhere. Mine seems to run a a good deal less than a hot home radiator in fact i would say its only warm 40c maybe 45c. With having no viscous fitted this is no bad thing (running cool) so i might wait till the viscous is going on. Thanks N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 16, 2010 Share Posted January 16, 2010 the round connector isn't listed as a seperate part, but a call to Autosparks on sales@autosparks.co.uk should hopefully get you the correct connector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 thanks western i'll give them a try monday, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted January 17, 2010 Share Posted January 17, 2010 Drained the system and ran two big buckets of water through it. Re-filled with some antifreeze and also tested the thermostat in a jug of boiling water. The engine now gets hotter and the needle moves towards the middle. So the thermostat was probably stuck full open. I'll get another and fit that later. The heater blower also gets warmer of course. I've actually fixed something! All i need now if for it to overheat cause there no fan....sods law and all that. used this antifreeze http://www.commaoil.com/productsguide/view/6/351 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bleyseng Posted January 17, 2010 Author Share Posted January 17, 2010 So i removed the intake grille for the heater. The fan does not budge. I guess ill be needing a new fan blower motor. Anyone have one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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