Aragorn Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 Decided that instead of moping around in the house nursing my "man flu" i'd head out to the garage and do some work on the 90. Thaught i'd make a start on rebuilding the rear axle, so i set to removing the first hub. Got the hub off pretty painlessly, however now i'm properly stumped as to how the disk comes off, after having undone the bolts. I've looked at the new disks, and it appears just to sit on the centre bore, but i cant see how to shift it... I tried placing the raised section on the inside of the hub onto a block of wood and belting the disk, but no joy. Any tips? To further my annoyance, i decided to remove the stub axle, and managed to snap 4 of the 6 bolts in the end of the axle casing... I'm going to try welding a large nut onto them, but if that fails, any idea if the axle casing from a 200tdi Disco will drop in inplace of a defender 300tdi axle, or any other useful methods to get these bolts out? Cheers Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyLee Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 we just lift the disk off the floor and belt it with a 32 oz hammer ! you then turn the disk until it starts moving off the hub. Honest it will shift eventually. Alternatively I suppose you could press it off though we`ve never needed to do it yet ,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted February 13, 2010 Author Share Posted February 13, 2010 I was using a 40oz... oh well i'll try some more tomorrow and see what happens. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 x5 14mm 12point bolts on the reverse when you remove the hub from the axle remove these and then place a suitable piece of steel across the inner hub and then with a Large hammer apply enough hits to separate the two, I then cleaned the faces with a pig tail wire brush on the grinder before reassemble using Loctite on the 14mm bolts, once the hub is off the car place it back inside the wheel to hold it whilst undoing the bolts that hold the disc on. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKMobile Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 To further my annoyance, i decided to remove the stub axle, and managed to snap 4 of the 6 bolts in the end of the axle casing... I'm going to try welding a large nut onto them, but if that fails, any idea if the axle casing from a 200tdi Disco will drop in inplace of a defender 300tdi axle, or any other useful methods to get these bolts out? Cheers Kevin Yes a 200tdi Disco axle will fit straight on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 Ok, quick update on this. Took the other side off, removed the 5 bolts and then stuck the hub back onto the axle and reattached the bearings. Few good belts and the disk started moving, went right round the disk, then took it off, put it back on my wooden block and the disk popped right off. Put the one from last week onto the good stub axle and did the same, so both disks are now off! I also managed to remove the other stub axle without incident. Not got my welder yet, so not made any headway into the snapped studs on the other side. While i'm in here freshening everything up, should i think about replacing the stub axle itself? I've noticed theres a small oil seal inside it, that i should probably replace as a minimum, but do the stubs themselves wear out, or should i just clean it up and refit with some new bolts and new gaskets? Cheers Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcwcooper Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Stub axles do wear they normally are scored or marked if they need replacing. They may well be fine, if so new seals and gaskets will be fine. One thing I would say is use genuine seals if possible they seem to last alot longer and saves pulling it apart again anytime soon. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 I priced the bits up earlier assuming the stubaxles would be ok came to about 80quid, with Timken bearings, and a genuine oil seal, but generic gaskets/nuts/bolts etc. I figured they cant really make an ar*e of a paper gasket or bolt! Looking at the stub axles, i've been able to chip huge sections of rusty flakey metal off to such an extent that the mounting interface is noticably thinner between the bolt holes. Much as i'd liked to have reused them, i'm aiming to do this job as best i can, and looking at the state of them i think i'd prefer new ones. Does anyone have an experience with the pattern stub axles? £100 a side for genuine really doesnt appeal... I've heard decent things about the pattern swivel balls, so i'm hoping the stubs will be the same! Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 I have used pattern stub axles but some come differ greatly in quality ref seals inside the stub, I recommend removing these altogether and let the wheel bearings run in oil they last far longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcwcooper Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Stub axles should be fine as pattern parts. And like Tony said leave the oil seal inside out and let the bearings run in the oil. As for pattern gaskets I use genuine drive flange gaskets or at least I think there genuine they're green from the local steelers, they seem to seal much better. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 hmm ok, scrubbing the genuine oil seals and swapping in the genuine gaskets works out cheaper anyway. Presumably i grease up the bearings as normal, and then the axle oil migrates its way along the tubes and into the bearings over time, adding additional lubrication? I'm going to fit new lower spring seats (the bolted on bit) and also new spring retainers, is there any better option than just buying the standard landrover spring retainer? All in, looks like its gonna cost me about £160 to rebuild the rear end, and thats not including the disks (which i already have), or pads/calipers, nor touching the diff itself! No doubt the front axles gonna end up costing twice that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Presumably i grease up the bearings as normal, and then the axle oil migrates its way along the tubes and into the bearings over time, adding additional lubrication? The idea is that the axle oil makes it's way along the stub axle to the end, where it lubricates the drive flange/half shaft splines, and it also works it's way back down the outside and into the hub, adding additional lubrication as you say Only downside is that if the hub cap fails or gets knocked off, there's more oil to go everywhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 It has one piece shafts... so theres not really anything to get knocked off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Even better! If you see streaks of oil on the outside of your wheel then you know it's the drive flange gasket then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 Whats the script with these one-piece shafts anyway? Is there any rhyme to what they were fitted to? The axles appear to be 300TDi spec, disks on the rear and wide bushes on the front. I guess they might be off a disco or something though... Are they stronger or weaker than the two piece items? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcwcooper Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 Weaker I belive however an adult will proberly be along shortly Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 as fitted to late 200TDI-300TDI then L/R reverted to separate drive flanges. and as for strength I never broke one even with a locker and Simex. they were then passed on to another forumeer in a deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Two-Jacks Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 Even better! If you see streaks of oil on the outside of your wheel then you know it's the drive flange gasket then Novice Warning Hi, Thats exactly whats happened to my 1986 90, radiating from the offside rear hub center leaking from the black plastic end cap. I have already replaced an oil seal on this axle when this occurred before and that seemed to sort it out for a while. I have been told that it is probably pressure in the axle due to a blocked breather blowing the oil seal again. Is a drive flange gasket failure an emergency "get it done quick" job or an "around-to-it" job? Is it common as I seam to see quite a few land rovers of the age of mine with oily tires with what seems to be the same problem, could the oil seep into the brake drums ? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 Hub caps also can leak - giving the same effect. They should be quite a tight fit on the drive member. I can't see how the oil would get inside the brake drums or the disc for that matter, as long as the leak is only on the outside of the wheel. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 Whenever mine have gone it has always been the breather blocked up- the tube on it was v-short from the previous owner and was getting full of road dust. dust+oil vapour = perfectly sealing gunge. I have extended the breather up along the a-frame, back along the chassis and into the back body by sticking it up through the gromit for rear lights. It sits there hidden away behind the speaker and hasnt blocked since. And no, my speaker isnt covered in oil either The front axle has always had the breather up into the engine bay and has never suffered any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 A pity you snapped the bolts. They need TLC.. When I did mine I rather bought the wrong part but managed to get the right one afterwards. Yes they do wear. Remember to torque them well!! Seal was completely in shambles when I stripped mine!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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