PS_Bond Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Hi all - I'm partway through fitting a newer engine to my dead Defender (con rods blew chunks out of the engine when the timing belt failed); I've got what turns out to have been an engine from an auto Disco. Done the timing belt, swapped the flywheel housing over (broke the drive plate in persuading it off the crankshaft); however, there is what I'm assuming is a spacer plate with a dowel that is not quite in the right place for the old flywheel. I *think * the part is FTC4214, but I could be wrong... Either way, what's the best method for removing it, please? I really need to have a look and see if the spigot bush needs replacing too. TIA, Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 that plate [ftc4214] isn't needed with a manual gearbox/clutch. flywheel bolt direct to end of crank, Yes you will need a bush for the crank/gearbox shaft end part is 8566L a Bronze bush. these should help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 that plate [ftc4214] isn't needed with a manual gearbox/clutch. flywheel bolt direct to end of crank, Yes you will need a bush for the crank/gearbox shaft end part is 8566L a Bronze bush. these should help. Many thanks for that - I didn't think I'd seen a bush on the auto engine. So is that plate just a sliding fit then? For certain values of "sliding", of course. Been finding some seemingly strange things about my old engine; for example, it was the old setup for the timing pulleys (despite being assured it had been updated when I bought it...) - yet it has an EGR valve on it. The old one was a 23L, the replacement is a 19L. Not being able to find much specific to the engine numbers has been a PITA, especially when you don't know the VIN of the donor vehicle. I'm generally finding working on this a lot easier than I ever expected. Proof of the pudding will be in whether it runs or not...! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Been finding some seemingly strange things about my old engine; for example, it was the old setup for the timing pulleys (despite being assured it had been updated when I bought it...) - yet it has an EGR valve on it. The old one was a 23L, the replacement is a 19L. Not being able to find much specific to the engine numbers has been a PITA, especially when you don't know the VIN of the donor vehicle. 19L is a Range Rover 300Tdi with EDC [electornic diesel control] engine & auto transmission. 23L is a Defender 300TDi with EGR engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilloverland Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 19L is a Range Rover 300Tdi with EDC [electornic diesel control] engine & auto transmission. 23L is a Defender 300TDi with EGR engine. Does that mean he'll need the ECU/alarm for it to run or is it a case of using the fuel pump off the old engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 or just remove the EDC unit from the FIP, It has the same fuel shutoff soleniod under the plastic casing IIRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 An EDC pump has a ECU and electronic injector control.... I dont think you can just replace the stop solenoid to convert it back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 or just remove the EDC unit from the FIP, It has the same fuel shutoff soleniod under the plastic casing IIRC. seems it's not as easy as I thought ^^^^ probably best to reuse the other pump from the non-EDC engine. this is part ERR3336 a EDC 300Tdi FIP looks completely different to a normal 300Tdi FIP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 That's the route that seemed sanest to me, so yes - the old fuel pump is in the newer engine. Besides, the guy who sold me the engine still hasn't sent the ECU... As I'm losing the EGR, that means I can strip the EGR controller out too - one less thing to go wrong. Funny, for some reason I was certain it was a Disco was the donor - but now I can't see why I thought that. Going to try a puller on that plate this evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 A simple puller works. An almighty crack as it came free though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 Returning to this some time later... Quite some time later. Having had a pig of a job getting the replacement engine into the engine bay (uphill, on mud/gravel), the vehicle has been relocated as well. I've now got the entertainment that the old injection pump has an immobiliser unit on it - and the lead to it was cut when it was pulled from the vehicle. A) Is it possible to get the back off the thing and reconnect the lead properly, is it replaceable or am I going to have to resplice the cable and B) I'm struggling to find a decent description of this immobiliser system; it has a dongle fitted beside the steering wheel column, a spider of some sort in the battery box and that's about it - no key operation, no remote... Does anyone have any pointers? I'd prefer to keep some semblance of immobiliser to keep the insurers happy, so knocking the unit off the back of the pump isn't really on. There's some bloody mindedness now setting in on getting this thing operational again. Then getting rid of some of the spares I've accumulated with the 2nd engine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 The immobiliser is not on pump its a green plastic box behind dash . It will need to send a signal to the engine ECU which tells the inj pump to inj fuel. The plipper on the key fob deactivates the immobiliser (green box) So these two need to match otherwise wont deactivate , and the green box self arms after a set time when ign off . If you just reconnect wires to injector pump it should work again when connected to engine ecu as long as immobiliser is working as above HTSH If you are using the old defender FIP in the edc engine then you wont need the ecu or immob (green box) or key plipper. Your orig pump should just have a single fuel cut off wire to fip . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q-rover Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 I thought 300Tdi's were 2.5L. Yours must be huge... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 If you are using the old defender FIP in the edc engine then you wont need the ecu or immob (green box) or key plipper. Your orig pump should just have a single fuel cut off wire to fip . If you mean a keyfob remote, nope - this is a plug-in dongle. The original EGR pump has the 4 core wire to the end of the pump with a plastic lump on it which is linked to the immobiliser AFAICT. The donor ECU is staying in the box, along with all the other electronics (and the EGR controller now too). If I could at least find some pics of the blasted thing I'd be a lot happier about the setup! I thought 300Tdi's were 2.5L. Yours must be huge... They are... Why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 Think he's on about the 19L and 23L engine codes in an early post... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 Ah. A 23L engine would be... Interesting. Or just expensive to run! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 Hmm. The words "Digital Diesel Solenoid" seem to have some relevance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 I thought 300Tdi's were 2.5L. Yours must be huge... 19L & 23L are the engine serial number prefixes, not the engine capacity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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