boaterboy Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 The air-con on my TD5 does not seem to cool the cabin as much as it used to. The air coming out of the vents seems relatively warm. I'd appreciate any thoughts on what might be the problem - and the solution. Thank you in anticipation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovernut Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 The air-con on my TD5 does not seem to cool the cabin as much as it used to. The air coming out of the vents seems relatively warm. I'd appreciate any thoughts on what might be the problem - and the solution. Thank you in anticipation. First you need to establish that the A/C compressor is actualy turning. If it is and the Air Off is warm it is possibly a control problem. If not it is much more likely to need a recharge. A slight loss of refrigerant can cause poor performance and still allow the compessor to run but with the sytem on your vehicle it is unlikely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axlechorus Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 Out of curiosity how often have you had the unit regassed? We have had the same issue with the saab and mercs with aircon and over the years the aircon decreases and you get warmer air. Solved it every time with a simple regas by a specilist cost about £60 for the last one from memory and he even came out to us which was convient Hope this helps. Ryck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boaterboy Posted May 25, 2010 Author Share Posted May 25, 2010 Out of curiosity how often have you had the unit regassed? We have had the same issue with the saab and mercs with aircon and over the years the aircon decreases and you get warmer air. Solved it every time with a simple regas by a specilist cost about £60 for the last one from memory and he even came out to us which was convient Hope this helps. Ryck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boaterboy Posted May 25, 2010 Author Share Posted May 25, 2010 The vehicle is 2002 and to date the air-con has received no attention, including regassing, other than being switched on regularly and frequently (at least once a week) in the belief that that keeps the seals 'lubricated'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boaterboy Posted May 25, 2010 Author Share Posted May 25, 2010 p.s. Thank you both for your helpful comments, I will arrange a regassing and see if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonter Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 p.s. Thank you both for your helpful comments, I will arrange a regassing and see if that helps. I'd be interested to hear if it does help because I have the same symptoms. Thanks Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niamh Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 What sort of vent temperature should one expect? Niamh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axlechorus Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 Im not sure of a figure but I would say you should certainly be needing a jumper with it pumping out cold. Our Saab at one point spat out the odd condensed ice ball from water in system that had been condensed to freezing. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Briandisco Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 KwikFit do a re-gas for £49. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niamh Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 Riiight, I think I'll pass on them Niamh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonter Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 What sort of vent temperature should one expect? Niamh I've heard 6 degrees mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovernut Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 I've heard 6 degrees mentioned. For interest, the average air con system will deliver a temperature dependant on outside air temperature and relative humidity. At 1500 Rpm with the engine at full operating temperature and a relative humidity of 60-80% you should be measuring the following 36" from the outlet. Ambient 20-24 Delivery temp 4-14c Ambient 25-29 Delivery temp 9-19c Ambient 30-35 Delivery temp 20-27c If you have climate control a small amount of heated air is introduced to give a constant temperature to a minimum of 16c The reason for this is that there are documented cases of farm workers spending hours in an air conditioned cab and collapsing from thermal shock when leaving it, sometimes with fatal consequences. The system using R134a refrigerant will loose a low percentage of refrigerant through the rubber pipework it is impossible to prevent this and for obvious reasons you can't use solid pipework like your domestic fridge. As for quick fit, ask them if they know any of the above and ask to see their refrigerant handling certificate. You always will get what you pay for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaddyZulu Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 Good to keep this post running for updates as I was about to post "Lack of A/C-common causes please" Got my '94 300Tdi Disco back in January and the A/C appears not to work, though I think some cooler air comes through the vents compared to ambient ram air temp. Have checked fuses and wondered if it was a simple regas required. One point please guys, can you hear an audible click from the compressor clutch when turning the system on and off ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanS Posted May 29, 2010 Share Posted May 29, 2010 The air should be freezing cold if set to max cooling. The aircon clutch should cycle on and off as the system needs it and you do hear it kicking in and out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted May 29, 2010 Share Posted May 29, 2010 Got my '94 300Tdi Disco back in January and the A/C appears not to work, though I think some coolerair comes through the vents compared to ambient ram air temp. Have checked fuses and wondered if it was a simple regas required. One point please guys, can you hear an audible click from the compressor clutch when turning the system on and off ? before you take it to be gassed, check the alloy pipe that runs along the rh inner wing. it's held to the wing by a "p" clip just by the coolant tank/fuse box. when i took mine to be done last year, the pipe had corroded, and fell apart on this point - fitted what looked like a good 2nd hand one, that did the same - ended up buying a new pipe and receiver/drier (they are dead after 10 mins exposed to air) air con is now nice and cold. 5 deg C at the vents was measured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads Toy Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Just visited my chum who's Discovery ('95 300Tdi) was having air con problems. As it's in Spain it's pretty important as the temp gets quite warm! He got it re-gassed at a local garage and lovely cold air now comes out but he now has a problem with the fan switch. We took the fascia apart and found the switch wasn't working on a couple of positions and the connector on the back had overheated and gone brittle. We took them both out, cleaned up the switch contacts and got one more working. We also took the wires out of the connector and put them onto the contacts at the back of the switch - not ideal but with insulating tape to stop them shorting at least he has 3 out of 4 speeds on the fan. Problem is, what is the switch part number as we can't find it anywhere (even Microcat), and does anyone know what the connector number/type is so we can do the job properly? Thanks Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicedayforit Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Just visited my chum who's Discovery ('95 300Tdi) was having air con problems. As it's in Spain it's pretty important as the temp gets quite warm! He got it re-gassed at a local garage and lovely cold air now comes out but he now has a problem with the fan switch. We took the fascia apart and found the switch wasn't working on a couple of positions and the connector on the back had overheated and gone brittle. We took them both out, cleaned up the switch contacts and got one more working. We also took the wires out of the connector and put them onto the contacts at the back of the switch - not ideal but with insulating tape to stop them shorting at least he has 3 out of 4 speeds on the fan. Problem is, what is the switch part number as we can't find it anywhere (even Microcat), and does anyone know what the connector number/type is so we can do the job properly? The switch is BTR 6494 Thanks Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads Toy Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 Thanks, BTR 6494 is definitely the same knob as we have, but it's the actual switch it fits onto that I'm looking for. Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicedayforit Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 Thanks, BTR 6494 is definitely the same knob as we have, but it's the actual switch it fits onto that I'm looking for. Malcolm This it by any chance? http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/9882/all/489/PRC5436-HEATER-CONTROL-SWITCH.html?sort=za Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads Toy Posted June 1, 2010 Share Posted June 1, 2010 This it by any chance? http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/9882/all/489/PRC5436-HEATER-CONTROL-SWITCH.html?sort=za Unfortunately not. We'd already bought one like that but when we took the fascia off it's not the one. The one that's in situ has the contacts vertically at the back and the mechanism actually slides horizontally as opposed to swivelling like this one. It's got "siemens" stamped on it plus a load of numbers. I've been told you have to buy a complete fascia to get it - but hope that's not the case. Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boaterboy Posted June 8, 2010 Author Share Posted June 8, 2010 Thank you for all the earlier comments, as I mentioned earlier I aim to get my air-con regassed just as soon as I get time. Urgency now gone as hot spell over for a while it seems - using heater, which works fine! A couple of questions have come to mind, however. If there are no leaks in the system, why should regassing be required? Does the coolant, which is in a closed system, degrade resulting in poor cooling performance? If it does not degrade, does poor cooling performance therefore equate automatically to a leak in the system? Is not the air-con system a refridgerator, in effect? If so, why do domestic 'fridges, which run for years and almost non-stop, never need regassing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niamh Posted June 8, 2010 Share Posted June 8, 2010 almost non-stop There's you answer. Niamh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovernut Posted June 8, 2010 Share Posted June 8, 2010 Thank you for all the earlier comments, as I mentioned earlier I aim to get my air-con regassed just as soon as I get time. Urgency now gone as hot spell over for a while it seems - using heater, which works fine! A couple of questions have come to mind, however. If there are no leaks in the system, why should regassing be required? Does the coolant, which is in a closed system, degrade resulting in poor cooling performance? If it does not degrade, does poor cooling performance therefore equate automatically to a leak in the system? Is not the air-con system a refridgerator, in effect? If so, why do domestic 'fridges, which run for years and almost non-stop, never need regassing? As I said earlier in this post, the refrigerant R134A escapes through the rubber hoses. You will not find rubber hoses on a domestic fridge because it does not need them (no bouncing along the road). On truck mounted fridges they use copper vibrasorbers instead of rubber but they don't downscale particularly well. In any case, all the different fridge applications use different refrigerants. I have worked in Transport refrigeration and Air Conditioning for 25 years and in that time the hose problem has never really been sorted and in fact became worse when 134A replaced R12 in vehicle systems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boaterboy Posted June 8, 2010 Author Share Posted June 8, 2010 Thank you, rovernut, and apologies for not reading thoroughly your initial comment re. hose leakage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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