D2 Central Locking Problem

[110 Dom]

Hi

I have mostly been posting in the Defender Forum but I now also own a 2004 D2 ES so will also be posting here......if there is as much help and advice here as there is in the Defender forum that will be great.

OK my D2 which I have recently bought has a couple of problems which I would like to bottom out the first being the central locking.

The problem is associated to the drivers door only all other doors work fine. The lock will always lock from the remote on the key but it will never unlock and I have to use the key to unlock the drivers door.

So far I have taken off the door trim and gained access to the locking unit. I have not removed the unit as I did not have a torx drive which looks like is needed? I squirted some WD40 into the unit to see if that helps. The WD40 may not have got where it is needed but I tried to spray in best I can without removal but the problem is still there and no change.

Ideally I would like to determine if the problem is with the actuator or maybe with the electrical signal / power going to the unit?????

Would there be any advantage in aquiring a torqe drive and removing the unit? Will this help me check anything else?

The electrical connector has 7 wires. does anyone know if measuring voltages accross certain pins will tell me if the signal / power is OK for the unlock circuit and if so which wires do what.

I was thinking I dont want to go and buy another unit without trying to diagnose the problem first

There are a few other niggling issues but I will try and post and resolve one at a time so as not to out face me or anyone that may help me!!

Its a bit niggling to have bought another vehicle and not spotting certain faults before buying but I really do like Landrovers and hopefully the faults take mainly my time to investigate fix as opposed to loads of dosh. My 110 is a money pit and I was hoping that the Discovery will not be the same!!

Maybe I also need to change my username!!!

Thanks

Dominic

[BogMonster]

It's probably the actuator but I have to say I've never bothered trying to diagnose one - your general idea is probably sound if you get a RAVE wiring diagram. The quickest and easiest option is usually change the actuator first (if you are paying an hourly rate) and on most vehicles this fixes any similar issues.

The fixings may be Torx or Torx Security (same thing but with a tit in the middle of the star to stop you using a normal Torx bit) they are something worth having in the toolbox anyway as they are in quite a few places around the vehicle - get a set that goes up to about T55 at least.

Maybe try a second hand one from a breakers?

[teabag]

I understand that D2s have two actuators, a lock and an unlock both in the lock as apposed to the D1 which has a single actuator outside the lock. The bottom line is that D2 locks are not repairable therefore a replacement is required

[110 Dom]

Thanks for the advice.

If I can another actuator unit thats not too expensive I will just go for that option first. I will post a wanted add here and if no joy have a ring round some Discovery breakers. In time I will post once it is fixed.

Thanks

Dom

[DaveA]

I can add to this a little, but as stated, the bottom line is probably a new actuator.

The D2 lock mechanism has 2 motors, one for lock/unlock, and one for superlock/unlock. You can connect to the motor pins to check the motors (reverse polarity to lock/unlock). If the lock/unlock motor has broke,then when you lock the car with the remote, you generally "superlock" the door. When the superlock motor runs to lock, it mechanically locks the door as well as superlocking. When you try to unlock, the superlock motor unlocks the superlocking only.The unlock motor needs to run to actually unlock the door.

Hope this makes sone sense! Although the unit is sealed up, you can repair some mechanical linkages, but if one of the motors have gone then its pretty terminal. Worse still, you need to remove the door top & window runners to get it out !!

[110 Dom]

I posted a wanted add quite a few days ago for a new actuator and so far have not had any luck. I think I will contact some breakers as the next thing and see if they have anything.

Is the window runner and door top an easy thing to remove? Any hints or tips here probably would help me greatly. Assuming the door card is removed how long a job should it be to tackle the window runners, door top and swap the actuator mechanism? Are there any special tools that I may need to do this job? Thanks for the help so far.

Dom

[DaveA]

I posted a wanted add quite a few days ago for a new actuator and so far have not had any luck. I think I will contact some breakers as the next thing and see if they have anything.

Is the window runner and door top an easy thing to remove? Any hints or tips here probably would help me greatly. Assuming the door card is removed how long a job should it be to tackle the window runners, door top and swap the actuator mechanism? Are there any special tools that I may need to do this job? Thanks for the help so far.

Dom

Can't really remember tools, but I reckon less than an hour for swap, depending on how many bits you drop in the door ...

[ob1]

Digging an older thread.

Recently purchased a D2 V8 Auto. 2000 XS Perfect condition, untill our cold weather started messing with the battery. Existing one was 94 amp, but aparrently specified is 102 amp now fitted. Since the battery started giving issues teh central locking also started.

1) First unlock unlocks driver and two rear passenger door. Front passenger and tail door remains locked;

2) Second unlock all 4 front doors open, tail door remains close.

3) Tailgate remains closed no matter what you do, it pops out if you open it from the inside.

4) When I start driving, the front two doors lock, not the rear passenger

5) When I lock remotely everything that was open locks just fine.

I read the above comments, understand that it is probably a few actuators/locks that could be the problem. But before I start to throw money at it: Considering the battery issue could the settings not have been messed up by the battery?

I have a friend with Hawkeye diagnostics. Could one reprogram the settings?

Thanks

[ob1]

Battery replaced, locks checked. All actuators working as it should. I also had the aftermarket immobiliser removed, suspected that could have had a negative influence, it was trying to work with the central lock.

All out of ideas, I suspect the BCU module might have been damaged during the battery empisode, some spike somewhere.

Replacing with new is unaffordable. How can one replace with secondhand? They sell under $100 us on ebay.

Is there another way to reset/flash the existing BCU?

[Modchop]

Had the same thing with my D2 a few months back, I ended up changing the lock/latch unit, I went for a genuine new part as didn't want to risk using a second hand one that could fail at any time, more details of how I did it here - http://www.greenlandrover.org.uk/new-front-door-latch/

HTH

[sharpy1980]

I had the exact same problem with my D2 a couple of weeks back, a new genuine actuator was only £70 delivered from island 4x4 and took under an hour to change, with only a set of torx keys a couple of spanners and 13mm and 10mm sockets

[ob1]

OK so tested all actuators, they work. Now the BCU. This is an expensive difficult route, new VIN programming etc, I spoke to a guy that recon that the BCU could be reprogrammed, it might be that it got confused with voltage spikes and is not unlocking the rigth doors at the rigth time.

Any toughts?

[ob1]

I can add to this a little, but as stated, the bottom line is probably a new actuator.

The D2 lock mechanism has 2 motors, one for lock/unlock, and one for superlock/unlock. You can connect to the motor pins to check the motors (reverse polarity to lock/unlock). If the lock/unlock motor has broke,then when you lock the car with the remote, you generally "superlock" the door. When the superlock motor runs to lock, it mechanically locks the door as well as superlocking. When you try to unlock, the superlock motor unlocks the superlocking only.The unlock motor needs to run to actually unlock the door.

Hope this makes sone sense! Although the unit is sealed up, you can repair some mechanical linkages, but if one of the motors have gone then its pretty terminal. Worse still, you need to remove the door top & window runners to get it out !!

I got myself a Nanocom evolution. Worth the price.

I established the normal lock on both the rear doors does not work. Only superlock.

What are the chances of it not being the actuating motor? Dont want to replace and find it is something else...

Thanks