will4x4 Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 I have read Les Hensons how to replace the ball joint in situ and cant for the life of me get the cap out using the big g clamp... i am based in farnham surrey..... anyone have any other bright ideas? i need to get this out and done today? cheers Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outdoor_ian Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 Cap ?? Do you mean the flat disc or the taperd insert that the ball joint is pushed up against ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will4x4 Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 Hi mean the tapered insert . Am outside now really stuggerling with it .... Any suggestions would be great. I'm not even going to attempt taking the arm off as that's meant to be worse. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scube Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 Yes the drop arm can weld itself on but not all the time.. I have taken them off before worth a try if you're having trouble with the ball joint. The job is much easer if you can get the arm off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outdoor_ian Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 Heat would be my first option or The alternative would be how worn does the taper ring feel / look, when I've replaced them it tends to be the actual ball that wears. If you really need the car leave the old taper ring in pack plenty of grease in there and rebuild it. Then in the next few weeks find someone local with burning gear drive to them take it to bits heat it up etc etc etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 The only way I've ever got the arm off (after a few years on) was by giving it a little local encouragement with Mr Big Lump Hammer, a distant rugby-laying cousin of LR special tool No.1. Les' method with the arm still on the box would mean tapping the insert out from the bottom upwards, I can see why you're struggling. You might get it to go a little easier by heating the ball joint end of the arm with a blowtorch to make it expand, but don't go mad, and watch out for your paint and hoses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 The alternative would be how worn does the taper ring feel / look, when I've replaced them it tends to be the actual ball that wears. If you really need the car leave the old taper ring in pack plenty of grease in there and rebuild it. Then in the next few weeks find someone local with burning gear drive to them take it to bits heat it up etc etc etc Good thoughts, and you can also (later) replace the Defender drop arm (and drag link) with the Discovery versions, which has a TRE = no more faffing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will4x4 Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 Thanks guys I decided to leave the sleeve in place and just fit a new ball joint and lower sleeve, if that makes sense. Seems ok now its all back fitted,I shoved loads of grease in. Thanks again PS What a poo of a job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe 90 Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 there are alot worse jobs you will find out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will4x4 Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 I think I have done most of them by now. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 I have found that by taking out the pin, turning it over and dropping it down through the hole from the top of the drop arm, such that the ball end is sticking out of the top, and then hitting the ball end with a hammer gets the upper seat moving downwards- it helps to hold a larger hammer against the underside of the drop arm to stop it flexing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will4x4 Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 hi milemarker i did actually try that and thought i was being quite clever. prob is while its on its really difficult. if i took the arm off i reckon it would be easy. seems ok leaving the old on there and just changing everything else - makes it an easy job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 With the steering on full right hand lock it is not to bad- the gist is that without the upper cup in place the pin will drop straight through the arm so with the cup in place the pin (or the ball on the pin) is only in contact with the upper cup so belting the ball with a hammer gets the upper cup moving! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob-lad Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 Recently did this myself. A nice gear puller got the arm off, then drifted the top shim thing out with an old socket that happened to be a perfect fit. Didn't fancy leaving the old crud in there to prematurely wear out the new components. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oap Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 [quote name='errol209' date='03 July 2010 - 04:41 PM Les' method with the arm still on the box would mean tapping the insert out from the bottom upwards, I can see why you're struggling. Well that explains why I failed to shift one last month, I even bent the g-clamp (a good quality one )before I gave up and left it in there but replaced every thing else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Requin Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 I just recently did this job - Wow, What a pig. I sort of adapted Les's guide by making a device. I took 2 bits of 5mm flat (about 30ish wide and 150mm long) metal, welded 2 bits of m30 thread one. Then I welded an old 14mm socket to it facing the same direction as the threads in the middle. With the other flat I drilled two corresponding holes. I put the socket into the housing making sure it was all square then put nuts on the bottem and just tightend it. Alternate the tightening with a good hammering and penetrating oil and trust me it will come out. I will add that it took me about 20 minutes to finish the job once I thought of doing this and two weeks of cussing and swearing before :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 I found a socket that just fitted on top of the lip; then pulled it down, and pushed the ball seat with it with the arms of a puller, the point of which engaged in a much bigger socket over the bottom of the drop arm. Especially this weather, heat on the outside of the arm would be really good too. My G cramps aren't strong enough. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted December 11, 2010 Share Posted December 11, 2010 Good thoughts, and you can also (later) replace the Defender drop arm (and drag link) with the Discovery versions, which has a TRE = no more faffing. Well said that man, I did mine years ago and it's a breeze doing the change over now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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