outdoor_ian

Hi Can anyone point me in the direction of the MOT testers hand book with reference to brake testing, the use of caution regarding propshaft handbrakes and rolling roads on 4x4's. Page numbers, item numbers or links I can copy. I have just taken one of my 110's to the test station I have been using for years to find it had changed hands, I was short on time and had to get it tested as its MOT is due, they then proceeded to test the rear wheels on a 2 wheel rolling road. My landy's have in the past always been tested using a tapley meter using the drive along the road and brake method. The main front to rear brake pipe/line left go during the test failing the car and not completing the brake test. Vehicle is a 1999 110 300TDI I'm going to replace the line and a couple of the others while I'm at it however can I request a tapley meter test rather than the rolling road ? Many thanks

As in the title The attempt was on one of my 300tdi 110 hardtops parked on the roadside sometime between Midday Monday and Wednesday Midday. This Defender was located in the Medway area its been moved now. Keep the landies locked away ladies and gents and the peashooters ready.

I had a conversation with NFU about my renewal a few weeks ago, it to had a fair price hike and it turns out last year was a centenary year which gave a double mutual discount. I managed to get the price down a bit without having to make any changes to the policy or have any excesses. My girlfriends horse policy has just gone up over 50% and they won't budge on that at all giving her the same double mutual discount last year line. Seems like a hell of a price hike across the board to me.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I wish I'd seen those before I bought all mine some time ago, there a really good price! Well worth plugging. Sorry couldn't help myself.

Your right Anderson plugs are not cheap but are about the most robust. One thing to keep in mind is that there are a few generic plugs of similar style on the market however all these have a slightly different profile and you can't(without fileing and cutting) just plug different brands together. I found this out the costly way! Dont make my mistake. Hope that helps.

There are 4 impact sockets in the halfords set which I think of hand include 17 & 19 mm these are the black ones and are 1/2" drive. To be honest with you no one off the shelf socket set will do everything, I'd just add a few extra 1/2" drive sockets mainly 12,13,14 (9/16) and 15mm. Many of the very small sockets will be very rarely used on a Landrover. I would also buy a 52mm socket (£15 ish) or box spanner (£10 ish) for when you do wheel bearings and a prop nut special tool (£15 ish) these will both make life easier and quicker. Edit: Use a breaker bar and touque wrench when your ment to and the tools should last you a good while.

Halfords one to chuck in the landy with facom stuff that stays at home.

^^^^^^ That is the same with many EDF landrovers particularly the cherry pickers.

Cheers for that link Nige I'd never valued my MUD plate which came with my 90 when I bought it and I cant believe how much they think its worth !!!!

slight hi jack here But does anyone know the brand and model number of the single din head unit mentioned earlier ? Many thanks

Its something to do with old MOT requirements to do with headlight dim /dip which have now changed beyond that my memory fails me. Someone will be along shorty to tell you exactly.

You can buy a replacement brass air bleed nut to avoid the cracking when over tightened issue of the black plastic ones (this also wont chew up as easily) or use one or two of the Xeng caps. Hope that helps

Push

Hi Have a read through this. As you can see I had a similar problem and having replaced alot of parts one by one trying to eliminate the source of my problem it was crud in the fuel line/tank. Another thing you may have is a small filter in your fuel lift pump which can be cleaned out (not all lift pumps have this, usually the Delphi type) Hope thats of some help.

Hi A bit off topic this but here goes, does anyone know where I can get hold of that style of boost pressure gauge that combines EGT as shown in the large photo?? Many thanks

^^^^^^^ Health and Safety wont be happy but it would make a great youtube clip or cracking story for the A&E section of the LR4x4 book

Did someone enter the 'A-team' into scrapeheap challenge ??? (for all those old enough to remember the contraptions that used to get driven through barn doors)

^^^^^^ It is on a 300TDI unless you are running a twin altenator set up.

Many thanks for the help guys, JBS, The only thing stamped on the case is a number 1 & 2 next to the responding spade terminal which is erm helpful ! Gyles, I think you have hit the nail on the head thankyou for taking the time to look. Nick, Now you mention the multimeter a quick continuity test between case and terminals should I think tell me which one is earth/negative. My knowledge of multimeters is pretty basic they either beep for contiunity or show you the volts! By the looks of the dial it does many more things that I am yet to discover. Thankyou Ralph being there as quick as lightening as ever. Once again thankyou Ian

Hi all I have a genuine volt gauage which I want to install in the 3rd hole in the instrument panel, the bulb holder is stright forward and obvious however neither of the 2 remaining spade connectors are labelled other than. 1. which is a female spade connector 2. which is a male spade connector I'm assuming one will be earth/negative and the other a ignition live (white wire). I'd just rather get it right first time as opposed to trial and error (snack crackle fizz pop oowww it doesn't work anymore!!!!) . Thanks in advance Ian

Done mine, will it turn up for Christmas ??? Who knows! Cheers

I've done the A frame ball joint on my 90 in the last few weeks and had the mother of all battles just to get the ball joint from the axle, I ended up with the back wheels off the ground and a scaffold tube between the axle and A frame arms which did the trick!!! On the up side the 2 long bolts that go through the A frame housing came out very easily. I took the A frame arms off as well as I replaced the bushes in them and gave the arms a clean up and paint while I was at it. First blood was drawn however when removing said A frame arms as I used a rattle gun to get the 30mm bolts out that hold the arms in place, the socket and extension bar fell off the gun on to my nose/temple (laying under it) which pushed the saftey spec's into the bridge splitting it open and bleeding instantly. On the up side I didnt get anything in my eyes other than blood! I used the A frame ball joint that Gwyn Lewis sells as its already pressed into a housing meaning its more of a swap over job or could be if you only did that part. Hope that helps

I have the Gwyn Lewis props front and rear on my 300TDI 90 they have performed faultlessly, are well made and have taken a fair bit of abuse. When the props depart on my other defenders they will be replaced with the Gwyn Lewis offerings. They even come with a tube of grease per propshaft which is handy but not exactly a deal maker. I just wanted strong, reliable and above all easy to maintain/grease/service. I have nothing to do with Gwyn Lewis other than being a happy customer.

I,ve got a truck air buried away somewhere, it use to go to a fairly high psi if I remember correctly but I'm not sure of how much its speed. Anyone know ?