No drive is it gear box or transfer box ??????

[defender-kris]

hi lads can you please help, just got a new defender but i bought it as a non runner it has no drive,

its an c reg with a lt77 box and a 230 T box. when the engine is running you can put it in gear with no crunching

and when you lift the cluch no drive, the lad who i bought it of said he was driving and he just lost drive as he was going down the road at about 30mph

how could i tell what it is ??????

[western]

might be the clutch badly worn or the centre has removed itself from the friction plate. only way to find out is either remove the engine or shift the gearboxes back so you can look at the clutch

try bleeding the clutch hydrauclics before removing antyhing else. could be a dead master or slave cylinder

[Happyoldgit]

Check the transfer lever hasn't jumped into neutral!

[western]

or main gearbox shaft has stripped it splines where the transfer box gear fits on.

[mmgemini]

Check the drive flanges haven't lost the splins at the outer ends of the halfshafts.

[sean f]

First check would be to look underneath and see if either propshaft is spinning, if it is the problem is at the axle, it should drive in difflock (but not a good idea!).

Next check the clutch slave and master seem to work (is there any fluid) although that wouldn't fit with suddenly losing drive.

Another check would be to remove the pto cover on the back of the transfer box, if you find a rusty lump in there with the middle spinning and not the outer gear then the splines have failed on the gearbox main shaft / transfer box input gear.

After that it would be gearbox, transfer box out for more investigation as far as I can see.

[FridgeFreezer]

Could well be a half-shaft, as above check if the prop(s) are going round. Other easy fix would be transfer box input gear.

[Bush65]

Easiest 1st check is to lock the centre diff - if the problem is at either the front or rear axle, it should drive with the centre diff locked.

If it still doesn't drive, I would strongly suspect failed splines at gearbox output shaft and transfer input gear. Often backlash between the worn splines can be detected during normal driving in the period before drive fails, but you never owned it then so that evidence is not available.

To check the splines, remove the large circular cover from the rear of the transfer case along with the rear bearing housing under it. If the splines are cactus you may see the results of the fretting corrosion and wear in the form of reddish gunk. Other wise jack one rear wheel clear of the ground and rotate it with your foot (or have an assistant rotate the wheel) while you look to see if the gearbox input shaft is turning (or not) with the input gear.

If the input gear doesn't turn, and the transfer case is engaged (high or low) the problem is after the input gear.

If the input gear turns and the gearbox input shaft remains stationary, the splines have failed. Pulling the input gear will confirm this - you may need to rotate the rear wheel until a tooth gap lines up in the intermediate gear to let the input gear to pass.

The input gear is easy to remove and replace, but the gearbox will require a new mainshaft - probably better/easier to get a reconditioned unit from someone like Ashcrofts.

Make sure you use an input gear with cross drilled lube holes - these were introduced to overcome this known problem of premature spline wear (they have longer splines and allow oil to lubricate the splines).

[Aragorn]

If its a particularly early LT230 (its a c-reg) it wont be able to be fitted with a cross-drilled gear, so you'd be easier getting another box if that turns out to the problem.

[Bush65]

If its a particularly early LT230 (its a c-reg) it wont be able to be fitted with a cross-drilled gear, so you'd be easier getting another box if that turns out to the problem.

Good point. C-reg could be Chinese for all I know