Ashcroft HD shafs and flanges

[Santiago]

Hi,

Has anybody suffered from spline wear while using HD Ashcroft halfshafts and HD Ashcroft flanges? I am talking about rear axle shafts and flanges in a Defender 110.

I know Ahscroft HD shafts and flanges are top quality and very difficult to twist or break but do they suffer from the same kind of spline wear as most other 2 piece shaft+flange brands out there (genuine, Britpart, OEM, etc).

Is there any special type of grease that could prevent or significantly minimize this wear?

I have been told that removing the oil seal and letting the oil from the differential lubricate the splines is a good option but I would prefer not to do so.

Bottomline is I am considering buying Ashscroft HD shafts and flanges for the rear axle of my D110 but I am afraid to end up with worn splines after spending many $$$$ on them.

I will appreciate the opinions of those with hands on experience.

Thanks

Cheers

Stgo

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

No

I ran Ashcroft Shafts for appriox 6 years with virtually no wear

Don't even put britpart / Genuine in the same sentence, its like comparing

'Chef Prepared Fillet Steak' with 'Pikey Tail n Hoof-nail stew'.

Both share the word "Cow" but not the same thing in reality

Also I ran oil, far uperior IMHO, both front and back in Hubs and swivels etc

Nige

[Bush65]

Sorry I can't answer with regard to spine wear with Ashcroft half shafts and flanges. I do know that Maxi-drive/HTE make these with longer spline engagement for that particular reason.

Also oil provides far better lubrication of the splines and wheel bearings. For the improved life and reliability provided, it is worthwhile converting to oil lubrication and fitting double lip oil seals (as used in earlier Land Rovers) instead of grease and the ineffective seal that Land Rover use now.

[Dave W]

Only had mine in for 3 years but no problems so far and they've had some serious abuse at times.

I run the oil lubricated setup though, not sure what, if any, difference that makes to the drive flange splines. As above, I always convert my vehicles over to oil lubricate the bearings, seen too many grease lubricated ones collapse and/or seize.

[will4x4]

hi bit off topic but how do you convert to an oil lubricated setup? ideally an idiot proof answer would be great.

thanks

Will

[Gromit]

hi bit off topic but how do you convert to an oil lubricated setup?

You remove the half shaft oil seal, so that axle oil can migrate to the hubs, lubricating the bearings and drive flanges.

[Santiago]

hi bit off topic but how do you convert to an oil lubricated setup? ideally an idiot proof answer would be great.

thanks

Will

Thanks for your answers guys. So it seems nobody has suffered from spline wear using Ashcroft HD shafts and flanges BUT most have convereted to oil lubrication so it seems this is THE way to go.

Appart from removing the oil seal what else is required to convert to oil lubricated splines?

Doesn´t oil drip from the original plastic cap if the oil seal is removed?

Bush65 mentioned installing double lip oil seals. Where does this go? On the end of the shaft/flange (replacing the black, plastic cap) or in the same place where the original seal was (inside the axle)?

Is there any post explaining (with pics even better) the oil lubrication convertion?

[western]

Doesn´t oil drip from the original plastic cap if the oil seal is removed?

only if the cap is split or a poor fit.

Is there any post explaining (with pics even better) the oil lubrication convertion?

either wait until the stub axle to main axle case wears a bit, or remove the stub axle 7 then remove the oil seal from the stub axle recess. then refit, oil will find it's way along the driveshaft to the hub/bearings.

[cackshifter]

Hi, Sorry to be anal about the part numbers but please can someone confirm this means using a RTC3511 seal instead of a FTC4785 between the hub and stub axle, and ditching the FTC5268 seal inside the stub axle (on the rear)?

On the front, presumably you lose the one-shot?

Nigel

[Santiago]

Western,

So it is then just a matter of removing the seal and that´s it?

In case the cap is worn, replace it and it is as simple as that?

I imagine that the oil seal suffers every time you introduce and remove the shaft, is this correct. Maybe I can just bust the oil seals by playing with the shafts a little bit (in and out)? Apologies if this doe snot make sense. I am just trying to find a way of doing it myself without requiring to go to the mechanic to undo the stub axle.

Thanks!

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

If you have ashcroft drive flanges then there is no leak problem a la silly LR Plastic cap ?

Nige

[western]

Western,

So it is then just a matter of removing the seal and that´s it?

In case the cap is worn, replace it and it is as simple as that?

I imagine that the oil seal suffers every time you introduce and remove the shaft, is this correct. Maybe I can just bust the oil seals by playing with the shafts a little bit (in and out)? Apologies if this does not make sense. I am just trying to find a way of doing it myself without requiring to go to the mechanic to undo the stub axle.

Thanks!

Near enough that simple.

if the hub plastic cap is worn or split, get new genuine items, dump them in very hot water, dry, put a dop of ep90 in or bearing grease & fit while the cap is still fairly warm, as it cools it'll grip the hub drive member tightly.

[Bush65]

The following pic is part of the instructions that Maxi-drive provided with their half shafts. This part is concerned with conversion to oil lubrication.

[western]

Hi, Sorry to be anal about the part numbers but please can someone confirm this means using a RTC3511 seal instead of a FTC4785 between the hub and stub axle, and ditching the FTC5268 seal inside the stub axle (on the rear)?

On the front, presumably you lose the one-shot?

Nigel

RTC3511 is the inner bearing seal, the seal inside the stub axle can be removed, see the reply above

[Santiago]

Thanks guys!

This is all very clear and VERY useful.

Cheers.

[cackshifter]

RTC3511 is the inner bearing seal, the seal inside the stub axle can be removed, see the reply above

Thank you very much Ralph.

Nigel