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MOT Questions


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Need to get the Range Rover MOT'd slighter sooner than I'd recalled, so it's going to have to go in pretty much as is. Which if any of the following are MOT failures?

  • Seized centre diff, no front prop shaft
  • Half installed Megasquirt sitting in the drivers footwell...
  • Gaffer taped holes in the boot floor
  • Dead fuel gauge (both fuels)
  • Missing rear bumper end caps
  • High speed vibration

I'm not sure about the bumper end caps (I've removed the brackets from the wings, so there's nothing particularly pedestrian unfriendly) or the high speed vibration. I suspect the rest is okay?

Not sure what's causing the vibration, but as I just discovered both the front tyres are trashed on the inside, I'd guess tracking is at least part of the story. Only had it done a couple of weeks ago :angry: Fortunately the tyres were nearly worn out anyway, so no real damage done.

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Dead tyres will fail your MOT, as will a non-permanent bulkhead betweek the fuel tank and passenger compartment. It depends how picky they are, you can find something to fail on any vehicle...

Tyres aren't a problem - I've got four perfectly good ones on (very) scruffy alloys round the side of the house. Sounds like the boot floor might be top priority, then, especially as the biggest hole is right next to the under wing petrol tank...might have had a little assistance getting to that size when I was investigating the dodgy fuel sender B)

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they wont know about the high-speed vibration, as they won't be driving it at high speed. my high speed vibration has all but disapeared since i fitted four new tyres and got the tracking sorted.

the fuel guages are not in the MOT, as they are just a source of information for the driver.......

if the bumper end caps missing reveals a sharp edge they might get you for that......

possibly the missing prop shaft, as they might see it as a safety issue..... as you are operating the vehicle in a different fashion to how it was type approved.... (not sure on this one, but don't like the sound of it.)

biggest problem i reckon is holes in floor... i'd get busy with the epoxy and underseal... make them go away...

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possibly the missing prop shaft, as they might see it as a safety issue..... as you are operating the vehicle in a different fashion to how it was type approved.... (not sure on this one, but don't like the sound of it.)

biggest problem i reckon is holes in floor... i'd get busy with the epoxy and underseal... make them go away...

I was thinking more the alloy floor that's been sitting in the garage since last summer... That hole's a bit beyond disguising - I 'extended' it with tin snips and bent the floor back to get access to the fuel sender connectors without fully dropping the tank :rolleyes:

Was planning to have a go at the transfer box this weekend but I think that might be a slightly lower priority.

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I was speaking to the guy from VOSA who does our external bus inspections (and slaps prohibitions on our 'dangerous' vehicles which have bulbs out) and his definition of a sharp edge is to drag the back of his sleeve across it and see if it snags.

No problems there then.

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Geoff,

The prop shaft won't be a problem as I had the same last year for the MOT :blink:

It also saved him going on a road test to test the brakes as he could put it on the brake tester with the prop off!

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Propshaft missing will not fail the MOT, worn prop UJ's are only advisory anyway. Diff being siezed is not an MOT issue.

Components sitting in the footwell/boot etc are no concern.

If the boot floor is part of the vehicle structure/within 30cm of a mounting point (such as seat belt, suspension mounting, etc), then it would fail.

Fuel guages are not an MOT fail.

End caps missing might do if the remainder has sharp edges.

Cause of the vibration might fail, but not the vibration itself.

In the case of sharp edges, then just covering them with tape is sufficient to get the test pass. Floor wouldn't come into the sharp edge category as it's inside the vehicle.

If the vehicle is excessively dirty, then the tester can refuse to do the test on the grounds that the condition of the vehicle prevents him from doing an accurate MOT test.

Les. :)

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If the vehicle is excessively dirty, then the tester can refuse to do the test on the grounds that the condition of the vehicle prevents him from doing an accurate MOT test.

Les. :)

I wish...hasn't been anywhere muddy in months :(

The Boot Floor on a Rangie used to be Rivited in, so isnt a structual part, as long as the main body

is rotten near any mounting point you should be ok :)

What about the bulkhead between fuel and passenger compartment issue?

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I wish...hasn't been anywhere muddy in months :(

What about the bulkhead between fuel and passenger compartment issue?

Fit the boot carpet with a couple of screws. In the unlikely event of him attempting to lift the carpet to check that will prevent him. He cannot test (and therefor fail) anything he cannot see - within reason. If you were to fit a continuous underbody guard front to rear then he could not see anything underneath to fail it on - if it were merely covered in mud then he could refuse to test but not fail it. :)

Chris

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What about the bulkhead between fuel and passenger compartment issue?

Never heard of this one. Some makes of car have the fuel tank behind the back seat (some Mercs), so just the rear seat is between the tank and interior. I don't think this would count as a bulkhead.

Les. :)

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Fit the boot carpet with a couple of screws. In the unlikely event of him attempting to lift the carpet to check that will prevent him. He cannot test (and therefor fail) anything he cannot see - within reason. If you were to fit a continuous underbody guard front to rear then he could not see anything underneath to fail it on - if it were merely covered in mud then he could refuse to test but not fail it. :)

Chris

That's a thought... the dog had an attack of diarheoa in the back of the truck recently. I've taken the carpets out because even though they've been cleaned they still stink like a manure heap. Doubt anyone would go digging underneath them... :D

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Thought of another one...

The air suspension controller is currently disconnected ('cause it's taken a major sulk after I left it disconnected for too long, and now needs completely recalibrating). Given it's not going into a land rover specialist for its MOT I'll take 50/50 on them even noticing, and I'll make sure it's all nicely set to standard ride height before I take it in, but should it fail on this?

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... will fail your MOT, as will a non-permanent bulkhead betweek the fuel tank and passenger compartment.

My Dakar just got passed with NO bulkhead between fuel tank and passenger compartment -- the Dakar tank is behind the rear seat. It's been driven around for years like that as far as I know. There are even stickers on the fuel tank!

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My Dakar just got passed with NO bulkhead between fuel tank and passenger compartment -- the Dakar tank is behind the rear seat. It's been driven around for years like that as far as I know. There are even stickers on the fuel tank!

Been crawling around underneath tonight and you can only actually see one hole from below - right next to the petrol tank, but fairly easy to disguise, I reckon.

Thought I'd knock off a couple of easy jobs this evening - sticky brake light switch and the dead horn. The horn went fine, as did a new set of plugs (it was running a bit rough and I already had them - knew they were past their best), but the brake switch has me a bit concerned...

I'd assumed it was just a knackered switch and bought a new one to fit, but when I put it in the new one didn't even touch the pedal... If I disconnect the pedal from the piston it returns okay, but its movement is being restricted by the piston linkage. I've a fairly good idea what I'm doing with a standard braking system, but this one is ABS, which seems to be a sight more complicated, so I dug the Haynes manual out to see what was what. Can't find anything to adjust, seems like the only thing you can do to it is bleed it.

Does it just need bleeding or is there something more serious amiss?

Fixed it for now, anyway, by taping a few plastic shims made from an ice cream carton to the front of the pedal. Don't think that'll make it into the top ten clever ways to fix your brakes, but it should see it through the MOT... I think I'd rather know what the real problem is, though... :ph34r:

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This should help :)

It might if the switch actually reached the pedal...

Well, the original one does, the Britpart one I bought is very slightly shorter and doesn't even touch it. The original one is right on the limit of it's adjustment and doesn't always close properly (without my dodgy shim fix, anyway). I did follow the Haynes instructions (basically the same) to set the switch up.

Cheers anyway... :)

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