disco_al Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 Last night i found a 1981 3 door RRC. It's been sat in a barn for the last 5 years, and has only recently been moved outside. From looking over it by torchlight, the inner wings are fine, only a small amount of rust on one of the panel joins at the front, the flat sections are solid, the rear arches are solid (couldn't get a good look underneath, it was wet and dark and surrounded by nettles) the tailgates are solid - in fact it's got less rust than my disco upon first impressions. I'm going to have another look in the daylight before too long, as i have got first refusal. Now, here's the interesting bit, it's got a proper diesel conversion (IIRC it's a daihatsu 2.8 lump, using a RR clutch) 4 speed box, with a proper fairey overdrive (lever between the front seats. apart from the roof lining (surprise surprise) the interior is pretty damn clean, with only a few trim bits dislodged. the only real downside is that it is painted in a lovely colour, which can best be described as mushy pea green. any ideas what this could potentially be worth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highway_Star Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 Not a whole lot I wouldn't have thought. Take your rose tinted glasses off and it's an 80's Range Rover with a stone crusher fitted. Solid though you think it is at first glance by torchlight. They never are! It's not old enough to be tax exempt or interesting to a collector, plus it's got a non standard engine. If it really is that solid it'd be well worth picking up for much cheapness though. I'd be wondering why it's been stood in a barn for all that time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted October 28, 2010 Author Share Posted October 28, 2010 the guy who owns it tends to collect cars in a strange way. he will buy something, use it till the T&T runs out, buys something else and then leaves it on the shed. it's definately solid, even by torchlight, i checked all the usual areas, and they are solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highway_Star Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 Like I said, in that case it should be a bargain. Most people want the 90's Vogue SEs with all the toys and trimmings, not the clunky 4 speed manual with Bungle the bear from Rainbow for seats. 3 doors are getting rarer, so it'd be a good thing to save it from the scrappy or from someone with an angle grinder and a lift kit. In it's not T&T state, and not run for years, I'd think £500 would be a fair offer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted October 28, 2010 Share Posted October 28, 2010 If it is nice and sound from a rust perspective its worth good money for sure, ....... however no matter how good a diesel conversion is it kind of reduces it to not a lot as the Range Rover is all about is 'heart' the engine AS WELL AS ITS 'classic' look. Take the V8 away and its just not got the same appeal. That's my opinion i know but that's why I bought one. They go together, the look of the vehicle and its engine, Separate them and you might as well buy a Disco, its all in the mind I know as there are some very practical reasons for engine conversion but to me they only drive the way they do and feel the way they do because of its heart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g&t Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 Checking vehicles by torchlight is always going to give a less realistic overview compared to a good examination in daylight, but the pre-nineties bodyshells do seem to resist corrosion better (sometimes a lot better) than the later RRC's. I bought an '85 classic in '05 that had obviously been heavily off-roaded & looked like it had been through a war zone but there was suprisingly little rusting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrRob Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 Most 80s RR were made of "better" steel than later ones and are less prone to rot. YRM do most of the repair panels now so go for it! As the others say, go over it carefully in full sunlight and a bright torch and "prodder"... Good luck. Post some piccies if you get it. Offer him £250 to take it away....he can only say no... PS My 200Tdi Classic out runs a lot of tired old V8s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g&t Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 Most 80s RR were made of "better" steel than later ones and are less prone to rot. YRM do most of the repair panels now so go for it! What puzzles me is why you can buy rear floors for the Disco 1 but not for Classics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 Because when the MOT tester isn't looking, a lot of people just pop rivet in an ali floor from a pre-86 truck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrRob Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 What puzzles me is why you can buy rear floors for the Disco 1 but not for Classics Coz Discos leak more through the rear door, sunroofs and mostly the Alpine roof windows.... To renew a Classic floor simply "fuse" 2 new Disco floors together - currently being done on my mate's Classic I've got an ali one behind the shed ready and waiting to be pop rivetted in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highway_Star Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 I've just fitted a pre-86 Ally floor in mine, where the sheet of crumbly rust used to be. What a joy of a job that was! All the support Z sections needed renewing, the floor crossmembers, brake pipe supports and best of all the rear seat belt stalk mounts were shot. I ended up fabricating that chassis crossmember as well as the seat belt stalk brackets. Oh aye and replaced the fuel pipes, brake flexis and axle brake pipes whilst I had good access. The whole back end of the chassis got the grinder & wire brush, a coat of rust preventer stuff as used on oil rigs, a coat of red oxide before getting scooshed with Schutz/Waxoyl. Inside and out. Putting the Ally floor in took about 10 minutes after all that lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 It is a VERY satisfying job when it's all done though isn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highway_Star Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 Very much so! Just need to refit the LPG tank and get it MOT'd now. The amount of rust that was under there, I'd have expected the back end to collapse with any weight in the boot, but as it's a Range Rover, it jsut shrugged it off. Over the last 5 years I've replaced inner and outer sills, rear outer wheelarches, rear body crossmember. Repaired all the door pillars, front footwells, rear inner wheelarches (where the seat belts mount) and rear chassis crossmember. It had one inner wing renewed just before I bought it, and the other one is starting to crumble now, so that'll be a job for the spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 Sounds like you have done pretty much what I have to mine, except the sills on mine are starting to look ropey... no holes, just want to get on top of it before they do, B pillar is a little swollen now... and I have one front inner wing to do, I've already done the passenger side At least I and you know it will keep going for years to come Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted November 4, 2010 Share Posted November 4, 2010 So, Al, did you buy it? or at least take some photo's?? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted November 4, 2010 Author Share Posted November 4, 2010 not had chance to get up there yet, got a slight problem with the abs on the disco (the valve block has died) so need to get that sorted first. hopefully i will be up there at the weekend to have a look. (i have to be - i want it, even though her indoors says no - at the moment ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 Well it's been a few months, and i've finally made it up to see the RR in the daylight - and it's better than i thought :) It's actually fitted with a Daihatsu 2.8 Turbo engine coupled to the original 'box with the overdrive still attached few crusty bits, but nowhere near as much as my much newer Disco had so it's get some work done, and she will be mine, muah ha ha ha!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g&t Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Well it's been a few months, and i've finally made it up to see the RR in the daylight - and it's better than i thought :) few crusty bits, but nowhere near as much as my much newer Disco had so it's get some work done, and she will be mine, muah ha ha ha!!!! My God you are easy to please, I think I could have sold you a few of the old bangers I tended to buy years ago Just from the pics it seems likely that both the front floors & footwells have rusted out & the engine bay sheet metal looks very iffy plus probable complications associated with the engine conversion. Bearing in mind that the earlier (pre '89) classics seem to have been built with better steel it makes you wonder just how far the rot goes. The best of luck anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 Just from the pics it seems likely that both the front floors & footwells have rusted out & the engine bay sheet metal looks very iffy plus probable complications associated with the engine conversion. It was only moved outside in spring last year, before that it had been dry stored. I've checked the floors (pulled the carpets up) and they all appear sound in the front, with only light rusting on the outside. The sills need doing at the back end, and there is a crusty part in the inner wheel arch on the leading edge by the sill. Generally it does look and feel solid in all the main spots. The inner wings are starting to get a bit crunchy, although I would probably fit new panels from YRM where needed. As for the engine conversion, it was a proper garage fit job, and not a bodge it at home job, done in the mid 90's from what i've been told - and it was driven out of the barn to where it now sits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tinker Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Well I like it, why is everyone giving him a hard time, what some people think is junk others are happy with, jeeeeez give him some encouragement he`s happy with it, sure its going to need some work, its an 80`s car...but its another 2 door saved from the crusher or bobtailers, it deserves saving, too many have been scrapped, hell I`ve done plenty....but currently doing a nut and bolt resto on a 71 version, As for the engine, i had one with that engine in, went like fooooook, and would out run and out tow any original engined RR, (except a V8) buy it, fix it, enjoy it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willfromsussex Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 Seen worse (like the one languishing in my yard here!) To me that engine would be its biggest selling point! Im putting a Japanese Diesel in my 2dr. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g&t Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 Well I stand corrected & am pleased to be so. The state of the front carpets would usually indicate extensive floor rot underneath but perhaps my observations about early steel quality have foundation in fact! I freely confess to being anti-diesel in RRC's & anti engine-conversion (in anything ) but if the shell & structure turns out to be sound you can play with the oily bits to your heart's content. Again I wish you every success in the project, but don't be under any illusions as to the extent of your undertaking in terms of both time & money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted February 2, 2011 Author Share Posted February 2, 2011 i'm not expecting it to be a quick job, in fact i expect it will take time - hmmmm, maybe get it finished for my 40th......lol i have access to a large dry barn if i need it, so it could be done in the dry, rather than at home. all i've got to do now is get rid of the 106 languishing at my brothers house before i can have it (so SWMBO says) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p76rangie Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 After spending the last few months chasing rust in my 2 door ute project, I am glad that mine was in a lot better state that the one in the photos above. Based on the rust in the wings, I will bet that where the wings bolt to the firewall is also gone. I would let it go to god and find a better one. http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/f8/rangie-ute-pickup-project-47802/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ragtag Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 ...but its another 2 door saved from the crusher or bobtailers, I resemble that remark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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