Parabolic Springs

[Retroanaconda]

Do you have any check straps on yours Fridge to control droop, or do the Pro-Comps have a built-in bumper to prevent damage?

My RM parabolics came with straps, but I don't really want to fit them unless I have to...ie. failure to do so would mean the shocks get knackered off-road.

[ToyRoverlander]

Strangely enough, my suspension is pretty much standard (or as close as can be with the different axles) - the springs & mounts & shackles are all in the stock places, and the shocks are longer but otherwise they're on standard Volvo/LR mounts, or copies of.

By just fitting longer shocks you get that much more articulation, it's really usefull to do so as you more than likely noticed.

On a different note, I noticed you have Creepy Crawlers, how do you like them? I've been thinking about getting them, or the comp spec Treps.... Don't know yet.

[FridgeFreezer]

No check straps, but I think the springs act as the limiting factor with shocks this long. That's not to say I'd advise not fitting check straps, especially if you have standard length shocks and fit flexier springs.

[Retroanaconda]

Well my shocks and springs were all changed together, I think they're Pro-Comp 9000s. The chap at Rocky Mountain said that they 'give the extra travel required' due to the parabolics. Whether this means they just take the inevitable lift into account I don't know.

Anyway, I'll find out soon enough. I've got to check that none of the brake lines etc. fall foul, so I can check the shocks at the same time, and fit the straps if needed.

[Chris x]

You can't fit much longer shocks (like ToyRoverLander) without extending the shock mounts (like ToyRoverLander), for something you can just buy & fit then standard or slightly extended shocks such as ProComps is about the only option, this was my truck on TIC 4-leaf rears & 2-leaf fronts with standard ProComps:

Nice one!

So would you suggest the slightly longer shocks I linked in page 1? What differences would they make of standards?

[FridgeFreezer]

So would you suggest the slightly longer shocks I linked in page 1? What differences would they make of standards?

I don't mean to be rude, but what I'd suggest is you buy a tape measure.

So far I've not seen any reply to the most relevant questions:

- What's your budget?

- Are you able to properly fabricate new shock mounts if required?

- What is the end result you want to achieve? (lift, flex, handling...?)

Nothing about this is complicated in its basic form - you know how far it is from the chassis to the axle, from shock mount to shock mount, you* know how long standard shocks are & how much travel they have, so if you want more flex without bottoming the shock out that tells you what length & travel of shock you need, plus how much further apart the shock mounts need to be to allow the required travel.

I don't mean to sound jaded and cynical, but I am so that's how it comes across

* = Assuming you can work google / the technical archive / Trev's spring calculator

[Chris x]

I don't mean to be rude, but what I'd suggest is you buy a tape measure.

So far I've not seen any reply to the most relevant questions:

- What's your budget?

- Are you able to properly fabricate new shock mounts if required?

- What is the end result you want to achieve? (lift, flex, handling...?)

Nothing about this is complicated in its basic form - you know how far it is from the chassis to the axle, from shock mount to shock mount, you* know how long standard shocks are & how much travel they have, so if you want more flex without bottoming the shock out that tells you what length & travel of shock you need, plus how much further apart the shock mounts need to be to allow the required travel.

I don't mean to sound jaded and cynical, but I am so that's how it comes across

* = Assuming you can work google / the technical archive / Trev's spring calculator

Budget is arround £600.

I want flex and lift (as it says in my title). Handling isnt key, but it will be used on the road so it must go round corners.

I dont want to modifiy the chassis for new shock mounts e.t.c. I have nearly finished rebuilding, modding it e.t.c. Dont want to start chopping it up again, more welding e.t.c. That can wait until the middle of next year. I want to be able to use it now.

All I want to know is what paras are best for what I asked for, and if people on here could shed some light on what they have and what they think of them.

From the posts so far, I think im going to get

Paddocks 2leaf fronts and 4leaf rears (remove 2leafs from the rears)

Polybushes

Extended shackles

and some sort of shocks, which is were I am now stuck.

What is the point of slightly longer shocks. Do they lift more? Give more flex? Or are they if you have relocated the parts where they locate on?

I really am clueless when it comes down to the suspension.

As far as the old suspension, its knackered. I think its the original, there rusted together, I can get NO flex what so-ever. The shocks are rusted through. Thats why I need a whole new kit, put its soul purpose is for off-roading.

Hope that has maybe cleared a few things up?

[FridgeFreezer]

Shocks don't give lift or affect travel unless they hit their internal limits or bind up on their bushes, they are as the name suggests there to absorb the shocks. Changing shocks can gain lift if they are the limiting factor (tape measure time again). Gas charged shocks may cause a slight lift as they naturally extend under the gas pressure, but it's not going to be much.

With standard mounts there's only so much length of shock you can fit in without running out of travel at either end, so that is going to dictate more than anything what you buy - there's a load of data on Trev's website.

[Chris x]

Shocks don't give lift or affect travel unless they hit their internal limits or bind up on their bushes, they are as the name suggests there to absorb the shocks. Changing shocks can gain lift if they are the limiting factor (tape measure time again). Gas charged shocks may cause a slight lift as they naturally extend under the gas pressure, but it's not going to be much.

With standard mounts there's only so much length of shock you can fit in without running out of travel at either end, so that is going to dictate more than anything what you buy - there's a load of data on Trev's website.

Ok, I think im getting there now.

I assume you would need standard length shocks if replacing with a standard suspensions.

But as I want paras and extended shackles I would need slightly extended shocks.

Am I getting there?

[Snagger]

With that budget and the need for simple fitting, I recommend you go for a Rocky Mountain spring kit. If they can supply dampers within that overall price, great; if not, then get a cheap set of Pro Comps from elsewhere - RM's Pro Comps are specially made with steel shields instead of the water trapping, rust inducing rubber boots and so cost more.

[Retroanaconda]

My RM setup cost less than £600 all-in, bought back in the spring. Springs, shocks, U-bolts, shackles etc. Looking at the paperwork I got back then, it says they (the supplied shocks) are +2".

[Chris x]

Funny you should both say that, was just looking at RM's site and they do look good, with lots of description e.t.c.

Buy cheap buy twice and all that.

I was orignally looking at them, they stuck out and the name poped up on most forums!

Thanks!

[terratology]

Gb springs are also very good and are handed left and right, also i would not bother with paddocks as they will supply britpart, which is ok if you like a lop sided landy!!

[ToyRoverlander]

Funny how everyone b*tch*S about brittpart springs.......

They're made in...... wait for it........ the UK! Made from british steel in a british factory....

They're actually not that bad. Only complaint I had is that the front springs are weak, but that could have something to do with my 109 having a big heavy cast iron LandCruiser diesel engine and cast iron gearbox in it..... So it's slightly heavier than it's supposed to be.

But even with the setup I have now, it doesn't lean and the 3leaf rears still have an arch in them dispite the huge weight and it being sprung over (what usually flattens springs quickly). And to top that off, they are still even in 1piece, with the proper shape, after being heavily reverse arched many, many times.

[FridgeFreezer]

Funny how everyone b*tch*S about brittpart springs.......

I thought people just bitched about britpart in general being a complete lottery of quality from genuine parts in a blue box to the worst chinese monkey metal and anything in between, all in the same box and all with the same part number & price.

[ToyRoverlander]

I thought people just bitched about britpart in general being a complete lottery of quality from genuine parts in a blue box to the worst chinese monkey metal and anything in between, all in the same box and all with the same part number & price.

Generally speaking, that's true

But not EVERYTHING they make is that bad. Some bits are ok.