need4speed Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Im intending to line my 110 rear wheel arches with 10mm soundproofing material, then fit chequerplate covers on top. Will i better fixing the covers with countersunk 4mm allen bolts or long rivets? I have no preference of fixing, its just that given the thickness of the chequerplate and the soundproofing material, its gonna take quite a long rivet? Im not even sure if you would get a rivet long enough anyway tbh? Thoughts. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 I'm going to fit some rubber matting in there too, plan to use some wide head rivets to the stiffner sections. I can't see any need to want to have to remove them unexpectadly hence the use of rivets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 Hi bud. Long time no hear. Hows things? I'll have a look at what wide head rivets i can use. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Glue the soundeadning and rivet the Chequer plate right through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Personally Phil, I'd nut and countersunk bolt it. That way you can dismantle it later if you want to and a smear of silicone on the outside washer will stop any wet getting through. HTH Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 10mm plus the checker plate thickness, very much doubt you'll be able to get rivets long enough to go through, let alone form a decent head of the outherside of the panel, countersunk bolts & nylocknuts would be much easier to source & fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clbarclay Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 I would use aluminium pop rivets. No steel on aluminium for galvanic corrosion (there's enough on land rovers without encouraging any more). You can get them with bodies long enough to hold an inch or more material and with closed ends so the joint should be water tight. Also available with countersunk heads if you want a flush finish. They take just seconds to remove with a drill if you do need to remove the checker plate occasionally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Serenity Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 with things like that you never know when you might want/need to remove them. I'd use nuts and bolts personally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 What will the sound deadening material actually be...??? will it be compressable..?? if so, you won;t wanna use rivets, i'd use nuts and bolts of some variety, and possibly even a spacer to stop the finished surface looking like the himalayas!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 Thanks guys! A good difference of opinions there! Im leaning towards the countersunk bolts / nuts option. Oh and the finished article wont look like the himalayas as there is chequerplate going on top of the soundproofing Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 Thanks guys! A good difference of opinions there! Im leaning towards the countersunk bolts / nuts option. Oh and the finished article wont look like the himalayas as there is chequerplate going on top of the soundproofing Phil as you tighten each bolt/nut it'll still compress the sound deading material, so if you don't use a tubular spacer to stop the bolt/nut pulling the checker plate down tightly, you won't get a level surface [excepting the checker plate extermal finish] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 I see.... I think. So where would these spacers go. At each corner of the chequerplate? And what size spacers - 5mm or so? Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 I would fit a spacer to each bolt, so it creates a gap [10mm] the sound deading material sits in, without being crushed as then it won't absorb as much road/drive train noise, you can make them by cutting a piece of suitable diameter tubing that has at least a 2mm wall thickness to the required size 1 or 2 mm either side of 10mm thickness of the sound deading material won't make much difference or be visible. it would fit together like this [just a quick scribbled diagram] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 Excellent explanation Ralph. Thanks very much. Im also glad you told me about the soundproofing being more effective if its not compressed - now it makes sense to not squeeze it down tight with the bolts. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 glad it helped, it's actually the trapped air in the sound proofing in combination with the material that dampens excess noise, hence if compressed tightly it's not as effective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 It helped a lot mate. Also good info for when i get round to soundproofing the rest of it Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 I'd use long ally rivets. They're the same material so no galvanic corrosion, nice looking finish and you could countersink them a little too for neatness. <div><br></div><div>If you use a steel bolt then the threaded portion will be under the wheelarch, so you'll need two people to install them. Then it'll corrode to a blob of rust in 3 years and then you'll skin your knuckles trying to remove them. And then have to drill them out, and steel's harder than ally so you'll blunt the drill bit. If you use stainless then 1) you'll find it's not good quality stainless, and 2) the galvanic action will be stronger.</div> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 I'd use long ally rivets. They're the same material so no galvanic corrosion, nice looking finish and you could countersink them a little too for neatness. If you use a steel bolt then the threaded portion will be under the wheelarch, so you'll need two people to install them. Then it'll corrode to a blob of rust in 3 years and then you'll skin your knuckles trying to remove them. And then have to drill them out, and steel's harder than ally so you'll blunt the drill bit. If you use stainless then 1) you'll find it's not good quality stainless, and 2) the galvanic action will be stronger. won't corrode if the bolts are just [minimum of 2 threads through the nut] coated with non setting waxoyl type underseal when the job is complete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted January 18, 2011 Author Share Posted January 18, 2011 I'll be using A4 stainless nuts/bolts so corrosion will not be a problem. Ive also discovered that you can stop the galvanic corrosion between the stainless bolts and the ally body by using plenty ptfe tape round the bolt where it goes through the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robhybrid Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 I would be quite confident that it would be quicker and easier to remove a riveted panel than a bolted one.in this application. Bolts would need 2 people one inside one outside. Rivets should easily form a waterproof joint. Bolts will still require some form of seal. Proper bodge done by me loads tech screws....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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