eds Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 I have just finished fitting jerry can holders each side of my 110. On one side the stems of the pop rivet came out complete. On the other side the stems snapped leaving part in the rivet, What's going on? Any clues? Thanks Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 Snapping off is the correct process. If the whole pin pulled through complete with its head then I would suggest the hole had been drilled oversize. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted February 4, 2011 Author Share Posted February 4, 2011 If this is so what to do? I have not see bigger than 4.8mm. Are these failed rivets? Are they very weak? What a bum...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 there are 2 types of pop rivet break head & break stem 1 leaves the ball head of the stem in place once the rivet is formed, the other just leaves the rivet body fully formed with the hole through the centre. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted February 4, 2011 Author Share Posted February 4, 2011 Both sides were the same rivets. They were these ones http://www.screwfix.com/prods/50039/Fixings/Blind-Rivets/Flange-head-rivets-4-8-X-20mm-Pack-Of-250 What do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted February 4, 2011 Author Share Posted February 4, 2011 One side had about 4-7mm repair filler. This is the side that the stems pulled through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 probably a slightly oversize hole, so the rivet doesn't form correctly, but it still holds the material, or poor quality rivets/setting tools. the sealed end type [small end closed off] are better for LR's, way water can get through or past them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted February 4, 2011 Author Share Posted February 4, 2011 So are they failures, Or will they make do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 if the rivets are tight & don't turn in the hole, I'd leave them, seal the heads with mastic or your favourite sealant, but wipe of the excess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 "Or will they make do?" With apologies to Cap'n Quint from 'Jaws' - Fuel goes in the jerry can... Jerry can goes in the holder... Holder fits on an aluminium panel with iffy rivets and the whole lot goes across rough terrain?... Fairwell and adieu to you Spanish ladies.... Please forgive me, that just popped into my head but in my very humble opinion you need to do a really good job with these mountings... Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 I would say that the rivet wont have formed correctly behind. If you want a really good vibration proof rivet fastner use a "Monobolt rivet." http://www.avdel-glo.../monoboltr.html or "Interlock" rivet http://www.avdel-glo...interlockr.html Very strong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted February 5, 2011 Author Share Posted February 5, 2011 This information has led me to looking into pop rivets and I have found that there are endless combinations of materials and styles. Is it always best to use an aluminium rivet with a steel stem? Or should it be all aluminium or even stainless? I know application is important so any guidelines would be good. As for the rivet above it looks like I would need a special gun? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 This information has led me to looking into pop rivets and I have found that there are endless combinations of materials and styles. Is it always best to use an aluminium rivet with a steel stem? Or should it be all aluminium or even stainless? I know application is important so any guidelines would be good. As for the rivet above it looks like I would need a special gun? Most come with steel stems, you will get galvanoic corroision with steel or stainless steel rivets in to ali, but even with ali body rivets you will get a little corrosion as it is a different compound to the panels. If it was me i would use the Ali body Steel stem Mono bolts. As for rivet gun , a good set of lazy tongs or an air riveter will pull these. HTH Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted February 5, 2011 Author Share Posted February 5, 2011 Thanks that's really helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobson Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 If you're putting a lot of stress on them and putting them through the wonderfully thick, strong aluminium that landrover use for body panels, it might be worth getting some slightly longer rivets and using a washer at the back to spread the load. thats assuming you can get to the back of the rivet to put the washer on of course.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSIIA Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 Given the loads imposed by the jerry can & mount, would bolting through suitable spreaders not be a better alternative than relying on a relatively thin section of softish rivet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 I wouldn't like to be hanging 25 kg full jerry cans on rivets through the ally body skin. The first bump you go over they'll be lying in the road behind even if you bolt and use big washers. Get some structure behind the panels and bolt through the holder, skin and structure. As a suggestion you could use a length of angle running the length of the tub bolted to the top of the wheelarch box, then bolt through the skin and the angle. HTH Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMc Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 On the Military 110 jerry can lockers, the vehicle's Aluminium side skin doesn't take the weight. On the early type, a heavy-gauge locker floor sits on an additional crossmember across the chassis, with the front of the locker floor supported on a substantial bracket to a chassis outrigger- On later Military Defenders, some were boxed-in as 'tool lockers' - The Wolf XD type is different, it still has an additional crossmeber across the chassis, but the jerry can locker is now a 3½ sided box - With Part Numbers Military 110 and Defender 110 - 110 Military Lockers.pdf Wolf XD - . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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