duncmc Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 I decided to make it a bit easier to weld up my inner chassis rail around the rear shock mount, so I thought I would take off the A-frame and do the bushes and ball joint at the same time. And clean everything up and paint them whilst at it. I haven't got very far though - can't even get the castelled nut undone yet!!!!! It is bending my lever bar. So I am going to soak some more, heat it up, use more WD40, and then try again. My question is should I try my impact gun? I don't really use it. Will it be ok to use on the standard Chrome Vanadium 30mm socket that I cut down to fit into the recess? And if it is that tight will that shift it anyway, or just wip round on me. (I had that happen to me before Christmas with a big core drill and break my hand so am a little wary now). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 Use PLUSGAS WD40 is NOT a releasing or penetrating fluid. better to use a correct 'impact' black socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted April 3, 2011 Author Share Posted April 3, 2011 My Dad is always saying to use Plusgas, he used to use it at work. I must get some. I just need to find a local supplier. Thanks Western, I agree better to be safe than sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Barrett Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 3 in 1 do a penetrating fluid I've found brilliant. B&Q sell it. http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9415304&fh_view_size=10&fh_location=%2f%2fcatalog01%2fen_GB&fh_search=3+in+1&fh_eds=%C3%9F&fh_refview=search&isSearch=true Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 I would use a ring spanner if it can fit ( pretty sure it does) or the open ended end and a lump hammer. You cannot maintain a Land Rover without liberal application of a lump hammer. Can't see you getting an impact gun on it, but if you can it won't hurt. if you use a non impact socket be prepared for it to shatter / split. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Barrett Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 hopefully a daft question duncmc but are you sure the split pin has all come out in one piece ? Are we talking about the castellated nut under the bracket shroud thing on top of the diff casing? I can't see how you would get a socket of any description on that nut, let alone an impact gun. as bishbosh says, a ring spanner and a hammer did the trick for me but it did come off reasonably quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 Use PLUSGASWD40 is NOT a releasing or penetrating fluid. Agree wholeheartedly...but it's worth mentioning that WD40 is good at 'flushing' out exposed bolt threads which are full of crud and mud. Plusgas is a lettle expensive and less able to do that. But for bolts seized due to corrosion...Plusgas all the way. That or a 1mm angle grinder disc.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted April 3, 2011 Author Share Posted April 3, 2011 Yep, split pin came out whole. I will give it another go with heat and releasing fliud tomorrow night. I have found a supplier for Plusgas in the centre of Birmingham about 10 miles from me. I might just try the 3 in 1 stuff though as I can get that nearer to me. Then if it still doesn't move it'll be the impact gun which I can get on, I checked earlier. Failing that a lump hammer and ring spanner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted April 3, 2011 Author Share Posted April 3, 2011 Agree wholeheartedly...but it's worth mentioning that WD40 is good at 'flushing' out exposed bolt threads which are full of crud and mud. Plusgas is a lettle expensive and less able to do that. But for bolts seized due to corrosion...Plusgas all the way. That or a 1mm angle grinder disc.... So far about 25% of the nuts/bolts since I have had it have had the angle grinder treatment. The problem is it won't get at the castellated nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 So far about 25% of the nuts/bolts since I have had it have had the angle grinder treatment. The problem is it won't get at the castellated nut. Just 25%? IIRC mine yielded to a bit of the windy-gun treatment but some nuts can be tougher to crack... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 Its still not moving! Got some releasing fluid, soaked with that. Applied lots of heat, more releasing fluid, then it was still bending my 600mm bar. So I applied more fluid, heat and fluid. Finaly resorted to the impact gun on max. STILL not moving. More heat, dug out my bigger compressor, and still solid. So now left it to soak again overnight. Then I need to buy a bigger stronger breaker bar, and try again. Failing that I will be borrowing a 3/4" drive T bar and scaffold pole from my friend! I wonder how I can get the cutting disc in there...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 Sounds like you need a visit from the Gas-Axe [a.k.a. an Oxy-Acetylene torch set with an oxidising flame]. --Tanuki. "Radclyffe - fetch the toads! We're going to play Wind in the Willows." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 I am going to have to cut the ******* thing off. Scaffold pole, new breaker bar, and still not moving, just managed to smack myself in the face with the scaffold pole when the socket slipped off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 air die grinder, you can get in with one of those. £19-20 from machine mart over at Hay Mills get some burrs at the same time. as long as you have a compressor. Or try a dremel with the cutting disc. Split nut along the thread then get a flat screwdriver in to spread it open and tap it undone. Other method is drill line of holes down the nut and split it with a sharp cold chisel. Might wreck your a frame bolt as well though, if you are replacing it though it wont be a concern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 air die grinder, you can get in with one of those. £19-20 from machine mart over at Hay Mills get some burrs at the same time. as long as you have a compressor. Or try a dremel with the cutting disc. Split nut along the thread then get a flat screwdriver in to spread it open and tap it undone. Other method is drill line of holes down the nut and split it with a sharp cold chisel. Might wreck your a frame bolt as well though, if you are replacing it though it wont be a concern. Thanks Pete3000, wish I had thought of that whilst I was over there at lunch time buying a new breaker bar. My Dad has suggested a nut splitter but even if they make one big enough I am not sure that it will get in. I am replacing the ball joint anyway so not worried about damageing it. Think I will try the drill and cold chisel method next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Yep drill a couple of holes and apply the chisel with No1 LR tool , should split enough to unwind cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob86 Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Just 2 or 3 good hits with a sharp chisel usually splits the nut. No need to drill or grind anything first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 YEAHHHHH!!!!! Its off!! (no drilling) A freshly sharpened cold chisel and a lump hammer. That split it, then just knocked it around until it came off. Thanks guys. The good news is that with all that banging the taper on the ball joint has moved already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 .........l and a lump hammer. ........ Is now the right time to say "I told you so"????? :P:P:P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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