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MOT time tomorrow


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I've just finished working on the Landy since February and booked it in for a new MOT tomorrow.

Its last MOT was October 2007 with 116281 miles on the clock and shes now done 117710 so she hasn't exactly been used in the last 4 years.

So after this lot I hope she will pass

Learn to weld !!

Remove exhaust and brackets, NAS towbar/step, A-frame, rear tie-bars.

Cut out rear chassis rot, weld in fillets and overplate for strength

Replace A-frame bush (cheated on this and got a local company to do it)

Clean and POR15 paint;

..the chassis from front bulkhead backwards (everything forwards of this is nicely covered in engine oil. The joys of a leaky rear crank seal)

..A-frame, exhaust brackets, tie bars and rear axle

..rear cross-member and fit the missing body spacers to stop the electrolytic corrosion

rewire the towbar electrics so I don't have to turn on the foglights to get the lights to work

refit the towbar

remove shocks and springs, test, paint then refit.

overhaul rear brake calipers with new seals etc

replace rear drums and shoes (TWICE because the drums were square and the shoe spring pins in the wrong place) :angry2:

make new rear copper brake lines and front caliper hard line I broke removing the caliper (I had to learn how to make brake lines !)

fit braided hoses

refurbish front brake calipers with new pistons and seals

replace OSF brake rotor

replace front brake pads and install new pad retainer kit as the anti-rattle springs were missing

replace both front swivels and seals

replace both track rod ends and repaint the track rod

remove sills and fit new galvanised rock sliders

remove rock sliders because they're too blingy

prep and paint rock sliders with POR15 and refit

Keep your fingers crossed for me

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I've just finished working on the Landy since February and booked it in for a new MOT tomorrow.

Its last MOT was October 2007 with 116281 miles on the clock and shes now done 117710 so she hasn't exactly been used in the last 4 years.

So after this lot I hope she will pass

Learn to weld !!

Remove exhaust and brackets, NAS towbar/step, A-frame, rear tie-bars.

Cut out rear chassis rot, weld in fillets and overplate for strength

Replace A-frame bush (cheated on this and got a local company to do it)

Clean and POR15 paint;

..the chassis from front bulkhead backwards (everything forwards of this is nicely covered in engine oil. The joys of a leaky rear crank seal)

..A-frame, exhaust brackets, tie bars and rear axle

..rear cross-member and fit the missing body spacers to stop the electrolytic corrosion

rewire the towbar electrics so I don't have to turn on the foglights to get the lights to work

refit the towbar

remove shocks and springs, test, paint then refit.

overhaul rear brake calipers with new seals etc

replace rear drums and shoes (TWICE because the drums were square and the shoe spring pins in the wrong place) :angry2:

make new rear copper brake lines and front caliper hard line I broke removing the caliper (I had to learn how to make brake lines !)

fit braided hoses

refurbish front brake calipers with new pistons and seals

replace OSF brake rotor

replace front brake pads and install new pad retainer kit as the anti-rattle springs were missing

replace both front swivels and seals

replace both track rod ends and repaint the track rod

remove sills and fit new galvanised rock sliders

remove rock sliders because they're too blingy

prep and paint rock sliders with POR15 and refit

Keep your fingers crossed for me

Good Luck

Mine is going for hers at the end of the month. ;)

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I always dread MOT time, makes me feel like I'm back at school and it's me being tested! Anyway Had mine tested last week and it passed, a couple of advisories on bits but two of the three advisories I suspected I'd get anyway.... all the other bits I had been fretting over (and was still waiting for parts for) were fine to my surprise. I came to the conclusion I worry too much ... and have probably replaced far too much of the 110 over the past year! :P lol

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FAIL !!!!! :(

001 (injector) Fuel system component leaking [ 7.2.1a ]

and an Advisory Item

002 (droparm) Ball joint has slight play [ 2.2.B.1f ]

They said the fail is is either a leaking fuel return pipe OR injectors.

Thats as much as they could tell me, they hadn't had a wipe around to see what it was or if the injectors just needed a nip up. Bloody useless.

I've got it home, fitted new fuel pipes and fuel clips and cleaned the engine. I just need to run it now to check its all OK

Booked in for a retest on Monday. I might even have the ball joint fixed before it goes back, just as a metaphorical poke in the eye ;)

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Well, after fitting new low pressure fuel lines between the injectors she was back in for a retest this morning and passed.

In and out in 10 minutes flat.

I took a few pictures to celebrate the occasion and I'll post them up shortly in Members Vehicles Forum

My thanks to all those who have answered my daft questions and helped me get her through.

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