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200tdi conversion: does 19j/TD flywheel housing align with SIII studs?


twodoorgaz

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Hi,

having searched everywhere, I keep getting mixed messages on this:

Am I right in thinking that if you bolt a flywheel housing from a 2.5 Diesel Turbo (19j engine) onto the back of a 200Tdi engine that the studs will align exactly with the bellhousing of a Series III?

I appreciate that you only need to drill a few holes/leave out a few studs to allow the 200Tdi to mount straight onto the Series box, but I see this as a neater/more appealing solution.

I may have gotten myself confused tho as I know the TD housing is used in some 200Tdi - LT77 marriages.

Confirmation gratefully received.

Cheers.

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Ah... that makes sense, it would explain why the Ninety/One-ten crowd use them in disco 200Tdi conversions.

So a Discovery 200Tdi (with a Defender 200Tdi or TD backplate) will bolt straight up to the series bellhousng and all the holes will line up - no missing studs/extra studs or anything like that?

I have no qualms with machining the Disco housing but as I will be fully reconditioning the Disco 200Tdi engine before fitting it with a 300 turbo and manifolds AND as I have access to a 2.5TD flywheel housing it would seem prudent to fit it as part of the rebuild assuming that it will allow the engine to fit the gearbox perfectly with no missing studs and no machining.

Many thanks indeed.

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Also the discovery tdi200 has a stiffener block between the sump and the block, This is bolted to the flywheel adapter for additional stiffness and "stops" the rear crankshaft seal from leaking (in theory). I don't know about the defender tdi200 so can't comment on that.

I found that machining the disco flywheel adapter to be no big deal, I used a dremmel bit to ream out the countersink for the allen head bolts through the flywheel adapter to the stiffener block. A good quality tap sorted out the studs for the gearbox, the holes were already there.

The timing loss is irrelevent as the bellhousing crossmember is in the way, anyway! The mark on the timing chest is good enough.

G.

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The timing tool aperture on the12J/ 19J flywheel housing is in the 2o'clock position (upper right side), next to the rectangular cast but blanked timing index pointer aperture. It is filled with a brass plug (15mm head, IIRC). The 200Tdi flywheel has two timing slots (at least, mine does), so I would expect that one of these slots lines up with the upper timing position while the other lines up with the 6o'clock Discovery Tdi housing.

My new chassis' engine and transmission mounts were fitted in the wrong place by the manufacturer, about 1.5" too far aft. I find it very difficult to use the timing tool because the hole is directly above the cross member with limited clearance, though the wading plug fits with just a little bit of hassle. I don't know if others with correctly positioned mounts would suffer the same problem, but in my case, using a 12/19J flywheel housing would have saved a lot of this trouble - timing would be easy using the upper hole and the wading plug would be easily accessible as it's in the front of the earlier casing, not in the bottom circumference.

As for the stud pattern, I think you have to move one stud to a blind-drilled hole after tapping that hole out, but that's all.

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Have the blind holes tapped so that all the bell housing holes have studs, but don't machine the flywheel housing. Instead, fit the removed flywheel housing to the Series bell housing and mark the positions of those four ladder-frame bolt holes on the bell housing flange. Use cap-head bolts (cylindrical heads with allen key indentations), and drill the marked positions on the bell housing to the diameter of the bolt heads. That way, all the bolt and stud holes are used for maximum strength, the four bottom bolts will act like dowels for the bell housing and those bolts will be removable with the gear box and engine still fitted, so that you can remove the engine bottom ladder for access to the crank shaft main bearings and the con-rod big ends.

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