Lobosdoc Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Hello all - this is my first post here on lr4x4, which I've come across due to what seems to be a few members with quite a lot of knowledge about ECU mods. I have a 2005 D110 double cab, but I bought it second hand, and, like most Defenders, it has it's fair share of quirks. It had a stage 2 JE Engineering remap when I got it, and, when hooked into a Nanocom Evo, reports an ECU part number of NNN500020, config tune svlnp006, and fuel tune svlne007. I noted that the fuel map corresponds to a D90, and was wondering what the differences are between the 90 and 110 fuel maps. My VIN seems to indicate that this vehicle was originally a D90, as the code reads SALLDVA574A, and I found it strange that the engine code is a 5, which doesn't seem to exist on any of the LR VIN tables I've seen. I'm savvy enough to understand what is meant by pulling and reprogramming an EEPROM if a flash should fail, but I don't have the equipment to do it currently, and I've never done such a thing before. Though I've considered using my Nanocom to reprogram, I'm leary of bricking the ECU. Has anyone here ever used a Nanocom evo to remap? If I did brick it with a failed remap, how hard would it be to have my ECU fixed? I'm asking because I've been curious to see how the vehicle performs with a standard map, and also wondering if it would address the one problem I haven't been able to sort... Since I got it, though it seems to do it less often now, I note that occasionally, particularly when at high revs and low gears, the vehicle is very jerky, almost like the fuel is cutting in and out, or the turbo is sticking. I've removed my EGR, checked my wastegate (which is working fine) replaced my MAF (which was dead) and replaced my turbo hoses with silicone... Turbo pressure maxes at 1.1 bar, and I've never kicked into limp home mode... I wondered if the remap could be causing this problem somehow... Anyway, I've been looking for answers for these questions for about 6 months, so if anyone has any, I'd be much obliged... Cheers, Eric P.S. One thing I ought to mention that makes things tougher for me to sort issues... I'm in Hawaii, and we have no LR garages here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C18RCH Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 When you say high revs, how high? Are you sure you've not just hit the rev limiter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobosdoc Posted October 17, 2011 Author Share Posted October 17, 2011 No, rev limiter should be much higher - it happens most frequently when accelerating from a stop... RPMs rarely get above 3.5k. I've never hit the limiter - though I do get just above 4k when I intentionally push it up a steep grade in 4th, and have none of the hesitation I've described. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Job One would be to get a fault-code reading carried out. The socket should be on the front edge of the cubby-box between the seats. --Tanuki. Achtung! Fallschirmfrosche!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobosdoc Posted October 17, 2011 Author Share Posted October 17, 2011 Yeah, I've done that. Nanocom reports no faults - however, prior to my replacing the MAF, air flow had been sitting at 4.4 all the time, without generating a fault. Noting that is what led me to testing and finding the dead sensor, but it didn't generate any faults, so I'm guessing the ECU doesn't notice every problem... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 If there's nothing being logged by the ECU then I can only suggest "the usual" - replace fuel-filter, check fuel-line pressure, check that there's nothing nasty lurking in the fuel-tank [if the injector-seals have been a bit leaky for a while you can get a gloopy carbon-soot-diesel gelatinous mass in the fuel-tank that can plug the strainer mesh on the fuel-pump's pickup pipe]. --Tanuki. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobosdoc Posted October 17, 2011 Author Share Posted October 17, 2011 Thanks Tanuki - I'll try that tomorrow... I've got access to a fiberoptic scope, so I'll take a look down in the tank (nice not having to drop it). Any advice on an easy way to monitor fuel pressure while test driving? Don't think the Nanocom will display that... I've got a new filter on already... There's only 40k miles on the engine, so it's still relatively new... Anyone have any ideas on the fuel map differences between 90s and 110s? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landy andy. Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Mine used to surge at above 3500rpm's, very similar to fuel starvation. Was the MAF, even though was not that old. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 I had similar issues to you, they turned out to be 2 things non bad enough to show a complete fault but bad enough to cause a problem. Number one was the MAF, however Number 2 was the fuel pressure regulator, which was again had not failed but was adding to the fault, at the same time I also changed the injector loom and cleaned the ECU loom. All this together fixed the issues but none of them showed up as faults on the Nanocom. As for remapping you shouldn't have a problem if you have the correct source codes, there are people that can sort it out for you if you have issues but it is not cheap. The best approach may be to buy a second hand ECU from ebay which will allow you to play around without the worry of not having a truck to drive and would allow you to keep what you have. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Thanks Tanuki - I'll try that tomorrow... I've got access to a fiberoptic scope, so I'll take a look down in the tank (nice not having to drop it). Any advice on an easy way to monitor fuel pressure while test driving? Don't think the Nanocom will display that... I've got a new filter on already... There's only 40k miles on the engine, so it's still relatively new... Anyone have any ideas on the fuel map differences between 90s and 110s? A fibrescope will be useful to check the tank's insides for cleanliness. If the pick-up strainer does get clogged you can usually hear the in-tank fuel pump screaming as it tries to pull fuel through the blockage. I forget where my workshop monitored the fuel-pump pressure - all I remember is that it was jumping about all over the place because the system was getting exhaust-gases in the pipework - the injector-seals were leaking, and the fuel-pump can't build the right pressure if it's pumping air/exhaust-gas. --Tanuki Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mturri Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Eric, Not exactly sure of the differences between D90 and D110 fuel/config tunes but they are AFAIK fully interchangeable and should not be the cause of your troubles. I've used both Nanocom Mk1 and Evo to reflash NNN ECUs but admit not without a backup ECU at hand. Make sure your Nanocom is up to date in the upgrade department (the latest upgrade was released last week) and run it in standalone mode (no laptop to hang up or USB cable to accidentally disconnect). If statistics should count, have personally never bricked an ECU in about 4 years of playing around with maps. If for any reason the remapping goes wrong, you'd need to desolder the EPROM to have it reprogrammed or replaced (soldering a socket instead of the EPROM makes lots of sense). To program the EPROM will need the likes of a Willem unit and a 'Virgin' config/tune file. Re the jerky/rough running it could be due to a number of things (or combination of): oil in loom, dirty/faulty IAT/MAP/MAF sensor, dodgy fuel pressure regulator, dying fuel pump, dirty fuel pump... what's the engine mileage, what sort of fuel has it been run on (sulphur content) and what do the cylinder balance figures look like when at idle (or steady full throttle)? I assume the EGR has been blanked off and the exhaust manifold modified to take the extra heat... A remap (specially stage 2 and above) puts the engine under additional stress which means all components/systems/sensors have to be in top shape & any problems will manifest as well as aggravate sooner. Would gladly look at fueling recordings to try spot anything abnormal, just PM to exchange email addresses. Rgds Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobosdoc Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 Thanks guys - just got home, and will be spending the next few hours sorting through your suggestions. I think I will look around for a second hand ECU, per suggestions, rather than play with my one and only original, and I think I'll also start looking into the Willem unit Matt mentioned, as I do like tinkering with new things... To answer questions posed, my engine has 40K on the clock, and I have blanked the EGR and decat'd it. Fuel pump comes on with ignition and always seems to run quietly. MAF is new and seems to be working well. The cylinder balances seem to run within limits, though I've only really checked that at idle, as it's hard to maintain constant RPMs while switching screens on the Nanocom to access that data (I don't have an RPM gauge - just use the Nanocom). I suppose I could just floor it and watch - will try that. I've disconnected the ECU loom at both ends and didn't note any oil - is that still a problem on a 2005 model? Will also look into the injector loom and the fuel pressure. Will report back on my progress - thanks again... Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobosdoc Posted October 18, 2011 Author Share Posted October 18, 2011 If for any reason the remapping goes wrong, you'd need to desolder the EPROM to have it reprogrammed or replaced (soldering a socket instead of the EPROM makes lots of sense). To program the EPROM will need the likes of a Willem unit and a 'Virgin' config/tune file. Are the Willem units pretty standard, or are there specifications I need to look for? Thanks Matt, Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 There is no difference to 90 & 110 config and fuel files. The file names you list are standard LR names, so either JE used standard file names for their adjusted file names or it's still on standard maps. You say stage 2 tune, so I assume you have an uprated intercooler fitted too. If so you shouldn't run a standard map with this and should keep to stag 2 map. The symptoms you describe are normally a sticking wastegate, although it has also been due to injectors seals too. The leaking fuel pressure regulator is different symptoms. This is the revs rising and loss of power under full acceleration. This is caused by the regulator leaking fuel which gets on to clutch plate causing it to slip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mturri Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 Eric, Re monitoring fuel pressure see this thread http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=62675 (just don't pay much attention to the 'findings' section) Cylinder balance readings only make sense when engine running in steady state (i.e. no transient), that is when idling or running totally floored on straight flat road no wind gusts etc. As for the programmer any model capable of handling the 29F200 EPROM (inc PSOP 44 adapter) shall suffice. Don't recall you saying your FPR leaks but if so it could certainly be causing the power loss. Rgds Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobosdoc Posted October 20, 2011 Author Share Posted October 20, 2011 Hello all - sorry for the delay - got under the car and noticed a leak from a swivel pin housing, so I got a little side tracked. Looks like the fuel tank is clean, and at idle as well as full revs cylinder balances are running from 3 to -3 with occasional forays up to 5/-5. Injector loom looks good by visual inspection. I'll try checking fuel pressure next - thanks for the link Matt. Steve - thanks for the answers on the maps. Won't bother questioning why LR would create different file names for maps that are the same - sounds very LR. Is there any way to check my existing maps to see if they're non-standard? (i.e. Confirm it is running a stage 2 upgrade) I do have an upgraded intercooler and manifold studs - why would that make a standard map undesirable? In regards to the FPR potentially leaking, I haven't noticed what Steve describes, however it did make me wonder what kind of top speed people are seeing on their TD5s... Once I hit 80mph, though the engine doesn't sound like it's working particularly hard, and rpms aren't even approaching 4k, I seems to hit a ceiling - most I've ever coaxed out of it in a straightaway is 90mph... Not that I particularly *need* to go any faster, but it made me wonder if that could be another symptom... When I calculate potential top speed with known gear ratios it seems to be a bit slower than expected... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbeast Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 cant really help you but i believe my td5 to be standard and i have had 94mph on a flat motorway, so i imagine your should do a little better with a stage 2 map and larger intercooler, however i dont have a rev counter and the engine was working hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksmelly Posted October 21, 2011 Share Posted October 21, 2011 Just out of interest - Why shouldn't you run a larger intercooler on a standard map??? I realise you'd have no improvement in performance, but what problems could this cause? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lobosdoc Posted November 16, 2011 Author Share Posted November 16, 2011 Well, have sorted through all of the potential problems that folks have offered up, and seems that my fuel pressure regulator and pump are working well. Strangely, the problem seems to have resolved itself... So either something I changed/fixed allowed it work itself out, or something about my fiddling around in the areas where I didn't find a problem caused it to cease. I'm suspicious that maybe it was my wastegate after all, as I did oil it real well when I checked it's opening/closing, and maybe as the oil had a chance to set in, it gradually got better and better... Anyway, not a very satisfactory analysis, but I thought I'd post to state problem solved, and I learned quite about about how my fuel system works. Thanks to everyone who posted suggestions. Matt - I'm still intrigued by the idea of getting another ECU to play with, and possibly learning how to do the EEPROM reprograms, so you may be hearing from me in the not too distant future. Still a little unclear whether SteveG meant that running a standard map on my rig would be unadvisable because it wouldn't run well, or just that it would be a waste of a larger intercooler upgrade... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 Sorry don't get on here that often, so I've only just seen updates to this thread. Yeah my wording on that part of post could have been better. It wasn't meant to say you can't run with this more a case of if you have uprated intercooler you should run with stage 2 map. As you said previously you weren't getting over boost so extra boost of stage 2 map wasn't going to be issue. you get a much more efficient burn with a stage 2 map. Now there might be a potential issue with a stage 2 map running on a standard intercooler as you'd get over fuelling, extra boost and increased thermal loads. Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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