reb78 Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 I got completely covered in waxoyl yesterday doing the inderneath of the 110. Funny really, as the front half of the chassis still has the factory paint on it (22 years on), but the back was crying out for a covering of something. Anyway, a couple of questions: 1. How long do you leave the stuff to dry before going and playing in the mud? Can you go get muddy the day after, or will this take a lot of it off? 2. How long would you leave it before welding on the chassis? It doesnt need any at the moment, but i'm sure it will in time (waxoyl isnt that good!). How do you make it safe to weld a waxoyled chassis? Is it mainly the thinner (white spirit in my case) that is really at risk of going up and once that has evaporated is it at its safest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 i didn't think it drys? mines still smears when touched and it was painted months ago, and when welding, you'll have to remove a large amount around the hole so the heat doesn't ignite it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 Mine is also still soft to touch & also when welding get a spray bottle of water because it does go up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brighouse shed Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 I would be tempted to get a nitrogen bottle and push a tube into a nearby hole then try and fill the chassis inside with a constant purge. used that for motorbike tanks years ago as filling with water didn't give great welds inside the tank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 :i-m_so_happy: :i-m_so_happy: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco2hse Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Advice when I last had mine done (needs doing again about four years later) was to go for a drive up a dusty road. The dust puts a crusty layer on it. There's no real time delay for the muddy stuff and it should not take it off. However a water blaster will. Welding at any point in the future will potentially ignite it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted November 7, 2011 Author Share Posted November 7, 2011 Thanks for the replies. When i said dry, i really meant set - it does kind of go off and become less runny. Sounds like it isnt a problem though. I'll be careful if i do any welding - i did wonder if it became less likely to ignite with time, but apparently not by much if at all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Range Rover Blues Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 I did my Escort years ago when I restored it and put a couple of litres through each sill. It kept taking a c**p on the garage floor for a couple of years, every time the sun came out and made the garage hot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G4FUJ Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Happened to a mate that put too much into his 110 door frames... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Barrett Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 Reb78 - do you mind me asking what might be a daft question. Did you mask stuff under the car before you got to waxoyling or just take care where you sprayed it? I'm thinking I should mask the brakes and exhaust but thats all I can think of and I really should get my finger out and get this done this week if I can. Thanks IanB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted November 14, 2011 Author Share Posted November 14, 2011 Hi Ian, No, i didnt mask anything up. It was a bit of a quick job, so i was just careful where i sprayed it. I didnt go forward of the transfer box (as it really didnt need it), but i think i would have masked the front discs if i had. The rear brakes on mine are drums, so no risk of contaminating them - it might be a wise precaution if ou have discs. I wiped the exhaust down after i had finished, but with the standard waxoyl spray, its 'fairly' easy to control. Next year (in the summer), i plan to jack the 110 up, put on stands on some waste ground, pressure wash thoroughly and leave to dry. Then i will mask everything up and use a compressor to do the job again and really cover everywhere (inside and out). The other weekend, i just concentrated on the rear half of the chassis and only used the waxoyl kit supplied by hammerite as i didnt have any tools to do it with my compressor. The other thing to bear in mind is that you should keep the stuff off of the bushes if possible as the white spirit will rot them. Two tips - keep the waxoyl warm - keep the tin in a bucket of hot water and it will flow a lot better without having to thin excessivley with white spirit. Secondly, i used my air gun to spread the waxoyl to the nooks and crannies once i had applied it (i guess the proper tools to apply it with the compressor would have been good). Apparently you can fail the mot if the brake pipes are covered in the stuff. I've just had mine, so will leave the overspray on there for now and check they arent caked in it before the mot next year. I beleive Happyoldgit has written a tech thread on waxoyling - thats worth a look too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted November 14, 2011 Share Posted November 14, 2011 .... Apparently you can fail the mot if the brake pipes are covered in the stuff. I've just had mine, so will leave the overspray on there for now and check they arent caked in it before the mot next year. .... Really? I never knew that. I had an advisory on one of my front pipes for corrosion, he didn't give me an advisory on the other one as he said it was covered in schutz to he couldn't tell.... Hmmm... now I've said that I can possibly see why you can fail on it .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted November 14, 2011 Author Share Posted November 14, 2011 Really? I never knew that. I had an advisory on one of my front pipes for corrosion, he didn't give me an advisory on the other one as he said it was covered in schutz to he couldn't tell.... Hmmm... now I've said that I can possibly see why you can fail on it .... I think I've read it on here somewhere. All they'd need to do is wipe them down with a rag, but i guess it could still hide corrosion even if they do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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