Daan Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Guys, I have been struggling with my landy for quite some time now; It refuses to drive in a straight line. The tendency to pull to the left has been apparent for some time. It has been stationary for about 16 months now, in which I tried to remedy this and a few other things. So far I have tried: -replacing all the suspension bushes -check tyre pressures -swap tyres left to right -measure wheelbase left and right -adjust wheelbase 5 mm longer one side at the time just to prove the point -adjust tracking, now 0 toe -adjust draglink 2 turns in and out to see what it does -leave it alone for a week to think about it last night I drove it again and the pull to the left is absolutely ridiculous. It is on acceleration, deceleration, just driving along. the tendency to go to the left is always there, but varies on the amount of torque applied to the wheels. I think this is because of the detroit locker, but on a straight line, while accelerating and going through the gears, i must look like a drunk driver swerving left to right over the road. I am now suspect of the steering box; could the valving for the hydraulic system be faulty? It is a discovery 4 bolt box, a 50 pound as found sodbury special, so it could well be knackered. It doesnt leak, Which I believe is a first for a landrover steering box. To compound this problem, the box is Left hand drive, so borowing a box is not as straightforward as I would like (in the UK). Has anyone got any ideas or experience with this problem? thanks, Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Are you sure is not a sticky brake or a mullerered Steering damper ? Best check just in case ? Also, I know it sounds odd but swap the front wheels aand rear wheels round too while you closing off other possibilities Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted August 9, 2006 Author Share Posted August 9, 2006 It had new pads and discs all round on the last mot. I thought about the steering damper, but if it was sticky, it wouldnt be only one direction. Wheelbearings should be ok, I collected it from bristol recently, did a 150 mile trip with it, bearings dont run hot or anything. The trip involved me having to hang on to the steering wheel about 20 degrees to the right in order to go straight. After 17 years of driving these sheds, my tolerance to details has gone to great lengths, so this is definately not a detail! Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Ive got a spare LHD 3 bolter PAS box if you want to swap it out Daan, I know its not the most healthy (I only use if for building round) but you are welcome to use it to see if the situation changes........... stupid question I know but just checking you have driven it, jacked it up and checked for brake bind whilst its all warm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Are the symptoms exactly the same no matter how long you'ev been driving it, or does it get worse as the trip gets longer? Is it there when you initially pull away? Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted August 9, 2006 Author Share Posted August 9, 2006 yes, no, yes. Its there all along. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 just a couple of thoughts.. is your steering box set at centre for "straight ahead"? if the box is not centred (jack up &count turns lock to lock ,position steering wheel half way lock to lock & check wheels are dead ahead.adjust on drag link. tyre press will also cause this as will incorrect caster angles,you could check diagonal wheel distance using a wieghted string & chalk marks on level hard surface . steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Another couple of possibilities - it's nothing to do with your axles / mountings is it? Check the axle is still perpendicular to the chassis rails (off-road damage? / carp chassis?), and that it hasn't somehow rotated on its axis. Swivels are built up correctly? Also, could it be some kind of torque steer or something to do with the detroit? Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 I've seen cracked mountings on axles before, and that was on a RR used 99.99% on-road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted August 9, 2006 Author Share Posted August 9, 2006 The issue of the box being straight ahead, I sort of isolated by adjusting the draglink a couple of turns both directions. It hits the lockstops on both sides so I dont think there is much in it. tyre pressures are dealt with, all at 30 psi. The problem is a lot bigger than any of these issues would be able to resolve, I think. I havent checked brake bind, with a truetrac at the front and a locker in the back this is quite hard. If brake bind is a problem I think it would show up after 150 miles, but still worth pursuing. Jez, I might take you up on that steering box borrow offer; does anyone know if the hydraulic fittings are the same between 3 bolt and 4 bolt boxes? Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 another couple of suggestions, random I know but maybe worth a hit; Panhard bent A Frame bolts loosend trailing arm/radius arm bushes unevenly tightened although none of those would result in that much of a kink....... is there a tight spot in the steering by any chance? hmmm more coffee required............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
istruggle2gate11 Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 does anyone know if the hydraulic fittings are the same between 3 bolt and 4 bolt boxes?Daan Im confident they are not the same fitting, I believe 3 bolters are imperial fittings and 4 bolters are metric fittings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted August 9, 2006 Author Share Posted August 9, 2006 Im confident they are not the same fitting, I believe 3 bolters are imperial fittings and 4 bolters are metric fittings. scheize....(the swearing detector of lr 4x4 wont recognize that I dont think!) The links are pretty sound, and fitting new bushes all round didnt change anything, I do have the feeling it got worse. It has radius arms all round with a panhard at the back. there is no tight spot in the box, but I feel a difference in going left as opposed to going right in the box, so I feel there is something not right hydraulic wise. I think my next step will be to disconnect hydraulics and see what that does. And more coffee. I have entered argyll and dont fancy driving this to scotland at the moment. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 scheize....(the swearing detector of lr 4x4 wont recognize that I dont think!) it doesnt but I do Korva works just as well disconnect the damper and try it? nip off to the hydraulics shop and buy a couple of adaptors ? assault plastic and buy new box from adwest?? I trying to remember if theres an LHD non-Pas box in the lab - I can have a nose tonight for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted August 9, 2006 Author Share Posted August 9, 2006 assault plastic none left! But knowing a price is still usefull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 about £280 plus vat if memory serves Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted August 9, 2006 Author Share Posted August 9, 2006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 hose adaptors and use my skanky mockup box? sounds a lot cheaper to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02GF74 Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 I think my next step will be to disconnect hydraulics and see what that does. I wpould have thought thatwould be the obvious step after popping of the damper. I can't see how a shafted damper would cause the steering to pull to one side. Detriot locker, hmmmm.....?????? remove front prop and drive to see what happens? (my money is on that, not that I know mucho about these but you've replaced/checked all the other obvious bits, excpet the PAS) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 Yeah, I think the detroit sounds suspicious... Do you have a regular diff you can throw in? If it's 24 spline 3.54 I've got one you can use. Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 I was going to suggest a problem with the front diff too - a torque biasing type, if it were to go wrong would make the car steer like a tank by putting all/most of the power to one front wheel... Have you tried driving on the wrong side of the road - just to be absolutely sure that it is not the road camber causing it - IIRC the tracking should not be parallel? and perhaps this could have some influence? If the PAS box is knackered, perhaps it is leaking fluid past a valve (I confess to not being wholly sure how they work) and causing the steering to pull. How about putting the front end on axle stands and seeing if the steering pulls with the engine running but the car not moving? What about all on stands and the wheels turning too? I guess that could help eliminate the brakes too. Hope you get it sorted before Argyll! I would not fancy that journey much either! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted August 9, 2006 Author Share Posted August 9, 2006 good point on putting it into the air with the wheels running; Its just that all my workshop equipment (including 4 jack stands and a jack) is stored with my parents in holland while I was away to the Czech republic for a year, so its currently beg, steal and borrow for tools. However, from sunday onwards, i will be rejoined with my tools! Thanks all, will let you know the outcome. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted August 9, 2006 Author Share Posted August 9, 2006 Yeah, I think the detroit sounds suspicious...Do you have a regular diff you can throw in? If it's 24 spline 3.54 I've got one you can use. Al. I think a problem with the detroit would result in a completely solid diff, however, because the problem also persists on overrun, i suspect that isolates that one. That would be usefull. Its 24 spline 4.75 ratio, but that wouldnt matter. I think removing the rear shafts would isolate that problem as well. But a diff in paris wouldn't be too much good really... Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 all my workshop equipment (including 4 jack stands and a jack) is stored with my parents in holland Some bricks work just as well - if a little less stylish... or safe. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted August 9, 2006 Share Posted August 9, 2006 if you can get it down to mine you can use my tools, I think we will be living there all this weekend anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.