Les Henson Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 The guy that bought the swivel kits from the main agent was told by the parts guy that Britpart make special OEM quality parts for the dealers. Obviously a load of rubbish and the parts were as bad a quality as you would expect from anywhere else. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 A couple of tricks for putting one shot in a swivel housing. Turn the steering on full lock, so that the back of the cv is exposed/ball is out of the way, and will allow the grease to go in easier. Also remove one of the top pin bolts to allow air out as the grease goes in. Pressing the sachet against the filler hole causes an air trap and can either prevent the grease from going in or cause it to squeeze back out of the filler hole. Worked like a charm, thank you. One down, one to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 I have the Britpart Swivels on my truck and they are great. I wouldn't worry too much ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 Ok so the reassemble is going to start Questions.............. :-) Which bolts require threadlock Swivel Ball Bolts Stub Axle Bolts Brake Caliper Bolts Lower Swivel Pin Bolts Upper Swivel Pin Bolts Drive Hub Bolts Is there a gasket grease that goes between mating surfaces and cardboard gaskets? Does the CV joint and stub axle have to be in place to do swivel loads? Is Hub end float important and need measuring? Is half shaft end float important and need measuring? There will be more I am sure.................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 Ok so the reassemble is going to start Questions.............. :-) Which bolts require threadlock I'll put what I did on mine... Swivel Ball Bolts yes Stub Axle Bolts yes Brake Caliper Bolts Don't think I did Lower Swivel Pin Bolts I didnt't Upper Swivel Pin Bolts I didn't Drive Hub Bolts Got spring washers on mine Is there a gasket grease that goes between mating surfaces and cardboard gaskets? Which gaskets? I mainly use silicone. Does the CV joint and stub axle have to be in place to do swivel loads? I did mine as an empty Swivel Is Hub end float important and need measuring? Is half shaft end float important and need measuring? There will be more I am sure.................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 I use a light smear of grease just to stick the gasket to the surface to help with alignment, nothing more. Threadlock as advised above. No CV/shaft in to do preloads as above. No seal either, fit that afterwards. Hub end-float I've always done by hand, just tight enough to remove all the play, then back 1/4 turn if you like. I tend to just leave it at tight enough to remove all the play. Half-shaft end-float will need setting if you've disturbed/replaced the bronze bush in the stub axle or replaced the CVs. Put required shims under the circlip so that there is no in-out play, but the circlip still goes on easily. There is an end-float figure in the manual if you fancy getting the dial gauge out, but I've always just set it as above. It's mainly to ensure that the axis of the CV is in line with the steering axis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 CV being there doesn't matter as long as the stub axle isn't on it as well. No steering link and no swivel seal is all you need not to have in order to set the preload. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 I threadlocked all the bolts you list. It's a pest if you have to take them out shortly after (when refilling swivels, for example!) but it's one area where I'd prefer to have the additional security. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 Thank you for all that info, very clear.......... Do the swivel seal securing bolts get torqued to 10Nm in order to produce the right pressure on the seal to ball or can I just do them up tight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 They are only there to keep the seal in place. It's location in the housing is what provides enough pressure to effect a seal around the ball. M6 coarse thread, so don't go mental on tightening them up. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 Is it OK to really tighten the stub axle bolts to swivel housing when it is the Railko bush and swivel pin bearing taking all the momentary strain? Will it upset the preload? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 Doubt it would have any effect on the preload at all. The swivel pins take the weight of one corner of the vehicle, plus any other abuse chucked at it. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 I have painted the swivel seal plates and stub axle mud shield. Do you think it wrong? Also is jointing compound found between gasket and face grease in clean form like vaseline? Or am I better with clear silicon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 I'm stuck I can't get the hub oil seal in Am I doing it right? The seal has more of a cavity one side which is facing away from the bearing But there is a tiny lip on the edge which is making it hard to go in the hole Do I just hit harder? Or have I got the seal in the wrong way round? Thanks Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 The flatter side of the seal needs to face outwards. the edge of the seal with the spring round it is the inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 Mine has a spring on both sides! What does that mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Post up a picture, and I'll tell you which way in it goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Correction, yes it does have one both sides.... if you look at the outer diameter of the seal, one edge has a lip, so the seal will only fit in one way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 So the tiny lip on the outer diameter goes in last I had it wrong way round Am I correct before I bash it in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 On your middle pic.... you want to put the RIGHT end in first (and the top pic too). Check the hub for any sharp edges as they can pull the rubber off the metal inner of the seal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 Ok Thanks for the quick help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Happy to help! I know how much a quick answer can help when you have something in bits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 It is never easy.............................. I have new stub axles made by Kardsons and the timken bearings won't go over the shaft. Has anyone had this problem? What am I supposed to do? The whole thing is greased up and ready to slide on but it won't go anywhere I must admit I am really p*****d off........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Kardsons? Never heard of them... All you can do really is phone up where you bought them from and complain You could stick them in a lathe and turn them down, but that's a bit of a pain in the rear when they should fit as supplied! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eds Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 I am super cross............ And the Kardsons axle came from PADDOCKS.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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